Thanks for reply Yes that little board with white stuff round it was inside I have purchased this separate to run on TTL that what seller refer me to.That why I got lost on this could not get it to work. Can I use this driver to drive diode now? or I need something different? Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks for reply So i got it all apart now see attached (I totally destroyed module but i dont care coz i managed to remove led safely ) and i have attached picture with all i got left can i make something with it or i need to buy some more stuff?? btw t+ go nowhere its just there Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks for reply That what im triyng to do now trying to take it apart to see whats inside so all it is if i apply 12v to it it come on so that means T+ and T- do nothing i wouldn't expect laser to fire before T+ is 5V right? Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks for reply yes head only with built in constant current module i have asked seller b4 purchase about ttl support and answer was yes so i bet they tell u anything to sell it Got totally lost here nowby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
So what would best approach to deal with it ? Remove electronics an use 12V laser Driver ? I got lost totally here Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks for reply Viktor Can you explain me this Input: 2.1 / 5.5 DC seat I struggling to find any info about it whats what Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
On laser side I got this Quote Wavelength: 445nm (Blue) Power: correspondence course 2500mW Operating voltage: 12V (DC) Working current: <1A Idemitsu form: dot Lens Material: dedicated optical coated glass Cooling: Forced air Shell material: aluminum anodized black Input: 2.1 / 5.5 DC seat And behind fan there is PCB to connect fan /main power and have writing TTL+ / TTL-by rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
@okuzster thanks for reply ill try this @VDX cant send gcode now but will sent it once I home I don't have Scope or DSO. It looks like gcode do its job but laser don't I have created short video to show whats going on Thanks for your time again all Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hi so i have changed min pover to 200 and max to 210 and its start burning but as not expected it looks like laser never go off its just cuts square not image see attached ? Is that me missing something here or its jus G-code not right? Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks Viktor again Ill give it a go tonight again and let you know outcome Thanks Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks for reply again So now I start to se light in end of the tunnel !!! So on image2gcode I need to input "threshold-level" as minimum and 255 as maximum? Thanks Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks for reply Viktor But I still really new to this As far I understand that TTL Do laser ON/OFF right? So PWM controls TTL from 0 - 255 So as far as I understand is that when TTL is on 127 I would expect laser to be at 50% power? im correct? Thanksby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Sorry for being noob to all this but I need some help Got laser running on my printer finally !!!! But got problem I think regarding TTL TTL works fine on output from 0=V 255 = 5V But laser turns on only on about 80% if less its just wont turn on (I can see that laser getting power coz there fan on top of the laser starts spin briefly ) What can cause this ? Not enough power? amperage?by rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Can any one help me here please I have done pinout layout see attached Can any one tell me if im correct or help me here to wire laser to ramps 1.4 board Thanksby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hi all can any one shay me light on this please Sorry im new to this and more I read more I get lost Got this TTL Module And Got this laser Laser seller claims that Laser works fine with TTL . All planning to connect to Ramps 1.4 Regardsby rastaman46 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks every one for help Received idlers replaced 3D printed once with aluminium once problem solved printed gear without a problem Thanks again Regardsby rastaman46 - CoreXY Machines
QuoteLarsK Just for clarification, it is not play we are looking for. Play means when the idlers can move because a hole is too big or something like that. What I was looking for, was if the belt under load forces the idlers to bend in a direction. Maybe that is what you did, but just to clarify in case. Nobody seemed to want to post a belt video, so here is one I shot from the printer I am curby rastaman46 - CoreXY Machines
Hi thanks for help all I think I sorted now I have played with idlers yesterday All idlers had no play at all Then like you said I have checked roundness and have replaced couple and got gear printed nicely (Well its still not perfect but much better. So I have ordered aluminium idlers to replace 3d printed once. So thanks all again Regardsby rastaman46 - CoreXY Machines
Hi can anyone post a video off how the belts looks like while running please? Regardsby rastaman46 - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Use flanged ball bearings (F608zz, F625zz, or similar), or use properly made, flanged, toothed pulleys (http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-GT2-20-16-Tooth-Gear-3mm-5mm-Idler-Pulley-Aluminum-2GT-for-3D-Printer-/201584674855?var=&hash=item2eef620827:m:mIY9J8L1M_sWNwPpl2DToNw) Thanks for reply Ill get all checked tonight and then I may put some more money in it again Regarby rastaman46 - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Are the black pulleys 3D printed? I would not trust 3D printed pulleys to be perfectly round. If they are out of round at all the belt tension and extruder carriage position will keep changing because the belt path length will be changing as the pulleys rotate. You'll never get two print layers to match up... Yes they are 3d printed What would be the best option toby rastaman46 - CoreXY Machines
Thanks for reply ok ill get this checked of any movement on this and report back once home And how to make idler mount stronger on 3D printed parts ? QuoteLarsK I agree with The Digital Dentist that your belts are flexing - But I don't think it is belt tension. I think it is the idler posts. When the printer changes direction the load on the idlers (marked with read below) changes and theby rastaman46 - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist The belt on the left side deflects laterally each time the motor reverses direction, and the belt on the right does the same to a lesser extent. That indicates an alignment problem. The belts should not deflect at all. Thanks for reply Can you point me out please how to address this??? Regardsby rastaman46 - CoreXY Machines
Here the short video printing bad Regardsby rastaman46 - CoreXY Machines
Quotelinuxbaba What I think is the gear pulley, the 5mm hole for the stepper motor not in the center of the pulley, forget it if I am wrong direct drive MK7 did printed same Regardsby rastaman46 - CoreXY Machines
See attached The cube dont actually looks that bad Regardsby rastaman46 - CoreXY Machines
QuoteLarsK I still think you should try to print a different geometry and show us that also (or just show the cube). It is important if the error is geometry dependent or not. Thanks for reply ill post picture of the cube once home Regardsby rastaman46 - CoreXY Machines
QuotefilipeCampos the printer looks like to have a very strong main frame. I only have some information and the photos, is pretty difficult to pinpoint the problem. I will suggest some action you can do, but not sure if it will help you. Some of my conclusions: From the image of the print is easy to see the hotend do not have the same position on all the layers. but is not a missing steps problby rastaman46 - CoreXY Machines
QuotefilipeCampos The problem you have is not a problem of the extruder. From the image i can see layers put with lack of precision, the cause can be many things... You need to check the obvious: possible rigidity problem of the bed, carriage and main structure. Check the belt tension too. Hi thanks for reply My frame is welded strong as rock Cartage looks and feels really tight Belts are tby rastaman46 - CoreXY Machines
Hi all again im finished my corexy build. But suffering from quality issues don't know what to do. Can print perfect cube!!! But cant print Big gear no matter what I do. Is there any procedure for calibrating XY ??? See attached for comparison My prusa i3 performed much better then my Corexy I have gone From Direct drive (Motor mounted on cartage) to Geared Bowden made no different in priby rastaman46 - CoreXY Machines