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भारतRUG
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Hi Ankit,
You can go with www.3dprotomaker.com printers
by
GowthamJGR
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India RUG
Hi @REPG send me the details to my email id jgowtham81@yahoo.com, I am looking for a 24V heated bed !
by
GowthamJGR
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India RUG
@Waitaki, heated bed MK2a, which I had once, have the same problem...
At that time when I measure the resistance between the two lines it is 0.02 ohm, then I was advised to remove the copper layer by reprap members via IRC, and so I milled the backside copper and checked the resistance between the two lines, it is measured as 1.2 ohm, then I connected the power supply it worked fine
"The prob
by
GowthamJGR
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Controllers
Forgot to say I am using MK2b heated bed platform which uses 24v DC too!
It is good you know, faster heating ! I love 24V rather than 12V nowadays!
by
GowthamJGR
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Controllers
I got the same Problem with the RAMPS 1.4a which is manufactured and assembled completely by myself
When I use first, the fuse (big yellow one MFR1100) blown away and doesn't work for a while and after few hours it started working (checked with Multimeter) it seems it uses more current, (I always use couple or more wires to solve current related issues!)
Later I worked with that but it cannot pu
by
GowthamJGR
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Controllers
While testing with Multimeters have you checked the resistance of Probe, Some probes will have resistance around 0.6 ohms to 1.5 ohms some times we miscalculate this as original reading, for safety check the resistance between the probes by touching with each other while the Multimeter knob in 200ohms
by
GowthamJGR
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Controllers
@Traumflug: Yes I have heard from a heater manufacturer saying, heaters which he supplies can work from 5V to 24V DC
why I have this question is, I saw a heater became red hot when connected with 24V Dc, in other hand it works fine at 12V DC
In Bang bang mode, i am afraid that the heater may not produce the constant heat with precise control which will result in Print quality!
by
GowthamJGR
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Controllers
Hey check the wiring connection it will vibrate if one of the wire is cutoff !
by
GowthamJGR
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General Mendel Topics
Thanks Vreihen, me too think this is the best option so far but I want to explore on another aspect too !
by
GowthamJGR
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Controllers
Hi I tried with 24V DC Power Supply, The problem is, I have 12V ceramic heater which need to work with 24V, so I thought to use a buck dc converter
I measured the current in the heating element (ceramic heater) It is 6.5 Amps I could not find any buck converters that can be used for this high current
Tried LM2956 a ready made one http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-DC-DC-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-Module
by
GowthamJGR
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Controllers
Check the above answers !
by
GowthamJGR
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Printing
Have you selected the correct COM port before uploading ?
by
GowthamJGR
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Sanguino(lolu)
So far I understood is Indians don't copy as it is ! they learn every bit and make an appropriate one
If they make mistakes they will learn from their Mistakes and will give a good result, but I don't know exactly about chinese but they are very very hard workers!
by
GowthamJGR
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India RUG
That Depends upon the manufacturer's experience and the source they have
Also we should be protective to handle if something causes problem !
by
GowthamJGR
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India RUG
Hey @RepRapWorld,
You are just promoting your own company Aren't you ?
You have a Good Marketing technique
by
GowthamJGR
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India RUG
The Sanguinololu 1.3a board is modified to support 16Mhz / 20Mhz crystal instead of a Resonator (which is rarely available component in normal electronic shop)
The rest are same!
It costs you only Rs 500/- for a bare board
If you need electronic components for building sanguinololu 1.3a or completely assembled Electronics do let me know!
Drop me an email to jgowth
by
GowthamJGR
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India RUG
Hey I built the Cooldrv. It is working Great
I don't want to buy pololus anymore
by
GowthamJGR
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Controllers
I was wondering, see if you short the 12V with 5V the FTDI will blew away, so you cannot talk to your chip!
I have fried my Sanguinlolu1.3a in the same way, but the story of shorting 5V and 12V is different
I replaced FTDI
It seems it doesn't work may be the atmega in the board fried too ???
I have a spare board so I replaced it !
by
GowthamJGR
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Sanguino(lolu)
Most firmware that is downloaded from the internet works also most people use RAMPS 1.4 as their Electronics, I could not provide the exact firmware you require because the calibration will be different for your machine moreover I am using Sanguinololu 1.3a for my Printer
by
GowthamJGR
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Controllers
Probably Ramps uses two heater with additional extruder ie., you can use dual extrusion using Ramps, T1 is meant for second nozzle not for bed, use this
image for wiring connection
by
GowthamJGR
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Controllers
It is showing 0.0 degree because your thermistor is not accepted by the board, check whether you have enabled the heated bed in firmware
by
GowthamJGR
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Controllers
Yup I used IRL8743 there is no heat dissipation there works very fine purchased from RS components
by
GowthamJGR
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General
Hi Guys,
If you buy any kind of FDM reprap 3dprinters and looking for support/consultation to the problems in your 3dprinter and costs you less money and time
You can contact me I am located in Bangalore, Drop me an email about the problems jgowtham81@yahoo.com
I have 2 and half years of Experience in R
by
GowthamJGR
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India RUG
Acrylic Bed with Kapton Tape sticks the PLA well also easy to remove anybody tried that ? But don't work well for bigger prints with thinner walls
by
GowthamJGR
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Printing
I suspect Limit Sensor wiring (including connectors) also check the Stepper Driver is overheating ! Over heating of stepper driver causes you missing steps. Have you provided heat sink for stepper drivers ? also try PC cooling fan to blow away the heat from the stepper Driver
by
GowthamJGR
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Printing
Hi Aegis1980 you have the calibration error in Extruder:
To calibrate the Extruder
1. Take the Extruder out of the Nozzle
2. Feed the ABS or PLA
3. Extrude 50 mm or 100 mm
4. Measure the Length Extruded
5. Note down the Expected length and extruded length readings
6. Change the Extruder Steps per MM in config.h in firmware by calculating Expected steps per MM in E
Here we go
x is the desired st
by
GowthamJGR
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Reprappers
Ian Post some photos of your print
It will help to understand the issues in your printer
by
GowthamJGR
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Printing
printer_man58: you need to change the Print temperature to 185 deg C in slicers and then you have to convert to gcode so it would be changed
by
GowthamJGR
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Reprappers
Uncle_bob is correct, it may be because of Motors,
need to look after the firmware speed settings
Some stepper motors are manufactured with less current rating where the speed also goes down
so if the speed you are using is increased, then the torque will go down, which lead to vibration!
by
GowthamJGR
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Reprappers
So it will work Definitely for you!
by
GowthamJGR
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Reprappers
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