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Building a SplineScanner or BookScanner? Using one, made it better? Your RepRap is a scanner? You just use a (video)camera to scan things? You make your own telescopes? Talk about it here.
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Re: BQ Ciclop 3D scanner - 9 years ago
You only need the regular one; the NOIR is for night vision applications and specialized stuff like plant monitoring. I recommend going through the step of removing the glue spots from the edge of the lens to make it focusable; you can find the instructions on the Raspberry Pi foundation website (basically just scrape the glue away with a fine tool like a dental pick until the lens will turn withby owens - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
Re: BQ Ciclop 3D scanner - 9 years ago
Not much to see, but here's a picture. The DIP is the ULN2003A Darlington array that drives the lasers; the little power supply hanging off the edge is producing 3.3 volts to feed it. There are separate 5 and 12 volt buses on either side of the board, and I'm using a surplus Cisco power brick that can do 3 amps for each, more than enough. There's a Pololu-compatible A4988 module in the middle ofby owens - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
Re: BQ Ciclop 3D scanner - 9 years ago
The latest is that the Piclop hybrid scanner is working pretty well, and I'm getting used to the software and figuring out the quirks of calibration and setup. I've added a couple more update posts at , and uploaded my versions of the laser holders, camera tower and camera mount to Thingiverse (links in the blog posts). The author of FreeLSS, Uriah Liggett, is planning to release a new version soby owens - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
Re: BQ Ciclop 3D scanner - 9 years ago
I can't say for sure about the steps/rotation, but the FreeLSS configuration defaults to 6400, which is what you get with a 0.9 degree/step motor and 1/16 microstepping. I only have 1.8 deg/step motors handy, so that's what I'm going to start with. The scan defaults to 800 steps in the "detail" setting, which should work fine with either kind of motor, but not without some kind of microstepping.by owens - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
Re: BQ Ciclop 3D scanner - 9 years ago
I've started to collect my notes and observations about the build, and the process of combining Ciclop and ATLAS/FreeLSS: along with some pictures of the completed turntable:by owens - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
Re: BQ Ciclop 3D scanner - 9 years ago
I've printed the parts for the turntable and assembled it, and I'm impressed; the unit is solid and stable. With the big bearing it really feels like a machine. My only feedback so far is that the hand-drawn supports that are included in the STLs don't really work, at least with my printer. The large arches and central hollow in the turntable base were very rough and needed a good bit of cleanup.by owens - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
Re: BQ Ciclop 3D scanner - 9 years ago
I've started printing, just a couple of the smaller parts. My bearing is going to take a little while to get here so I won't be assembling right away, but I can at least get some threaded rod and try fitting the major parts together. I think the exploded diagrams will make it fairly easy, assuming everything prints like it is supposed to. . .by owens - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
BQ Ciclop 3D scanner - 9 years ago
I'm sure lots of folks have seen the announcement from CES, but now the files have been released so we can all start printing: The design is CC-BY-SA for both the mechanical and electronic design, which includes a custom Arduino shield: Personally, I'm debating whether to go the Arduino + webcam route as BQ has done, or the Raspberry Pi + cam route as Atlas/FreeLSS. But since the FreeLSS mby owens - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
Re: Worm Drive Grounded Delta Printer - 11 years ago
Excellent! And it has the stiffness to carry the extruder on top of the hub, that's amazing. Definitely deserves some videos. . .by owens - Delta Machines
Re: GUS Simpson - 11 years ago
Not only that, but there will shortly* be at least three more GUS Simpsons out there, testimony to how much we all like cool printers with gears and waving arms I think that rate of adoption says a lot about the promise of the design. * shortly == just few days, perhaps even this weekend, at the rate people are going. Two are already moving and just need calibration to make test prints, anotherby owens - Delta Machines
Re: Grounded Experimental Delta Printer - 11 years ago
Quotenicholas.seward @pjoyce42: You can print it in the orientation given. Most printers can bridge that far. It may sag but you have tons of layers until you get to the gear part so most printers will self-correct. However, there is an untested version here. I am not sure if the tuner can be inserted. I think it can. No issues at all putting the tuner in; there's plenty of clearance. I'm pby owens - Delta Machines
Re: Grounded Experimental Delta Printer - 11 years ago
QuoteA2 @Owen, The new arms look great! Tks for posting the video. Hysteresis, Brownian motion, White noise: Am I seeing hysteresis (string lag) at the start of the first movement? I don't envision it being an issue with all 3 arms in motion, and printing a raft will also account for it. I think you're just seeing a pause before the arm began moving. I was filming with my iPhone held in one hby owens - Delta Machines
Re: Grounded Experimental Delta Printer - 11 years ago
New pics and video of the fully assembled arm, linked here at the ConceptFORGE forum.by owens - Delta Machines
Re: Grounded Experimental Delta Printer - 11 years ago
Quotebrandonh Right, but then you've got to thread an m4 nut on slippery PTFE for 3 full inches, which seems like a bit of extra effort. If the nut was at the bottom of Hub Bottom, next to the hotend, and inserted first, you could eliminate the Bowden nut entirely, as well as chop 20 mm of plastic off of this part. Yes, you might need to thicken Hub Bottom to do that, and yes, it might be hardeby owens - Delta Machines
Re: Grounded Experimental Delta Printer - 11 years ago
New pics added to the Flickr Simpson set. The two arms have all of their major hardware installed (the endstop is missing, but that's because I haven't printed the new eccentric bit yet). Some tips on that: - I didn't need to drill out any holes, but I did have to clean out the flash and strings pretty well in order to get things to fit. - Despite not *needing* to drill them out, I did clearanby owens - Delta Machines
Re: Grounded Experimental Delta Printer - 11 years ago
Quotebrandonh - Is there a place with a bunch of pictures of assembled Simpsons? I recall seeing ones from MF NY but I can't seem to find them now. Trying to understand the wiring process. I have a few on Flickr. However, that's the original GUS design, and the new arms will be strung differently. . . Simpson Set Quotebrandonh - Are any more basalt beds available? If not available pre-cut, dby owens - Delta Machines
Re: Grounded Experimental Delta Printer - 11 years ago
Quotesgraber What is meant is you warm the bearing to the point that when you insert it into the bearing hole that it melts the plastic a bit so it slides into the hole. I haven't tried that trick with bearings, though I've done it in combination with heating the plastic to get the pulleys onto the motor shafts; if the shaft isn't warm it tends to freeze the pulley in place before it's slid on fby owens - Delta Machines
Re: Grounded Experimental Delta Printer - 11 years ago
QuoteGeorgeH That's terrifyingly large, but I think I can print it if I do it sideways. Whoo! I'll be printing ASAP then! One recommendation, having printed the first version of the arms: even if you're using PLA, you need a heated bed. And it should be a stiff bed, like a fairly substantial piece of glass, not something that can flex (ie. don't print right on your PC board heater). The end witby owens - Delta Machines
Re: Tri-Polar Bot Concept -- Wood Wally - 11 years ago
Quotesgraber FWIW, I just printed an arm with WALLY on it and had no problems with it adhering well to the build platform. Printed in 1 hr 45 min. 3 perimeters, 15% infill, 0.3mm layer height, 65C bed temp for first layer, dropped to 60C after that, hotend at 205-210C, used hairspray on the heated bed. I'm getting close to having Smooshed's parts done now. We printed our first Wally arms withby owens - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Re: Tri-Polar Bot Concept -- Meet Wally - 11 years ago
A quick hint for those diving in. . . the arms with bearing cutouts on the ends will want to curl very badly. Blue tape isn't good enough, even with a brim. In order to get them to stay flat we upgraded our printer with 4 mm glass over a heated bed and run it at 70 C first layer, 65 for the rest of the print, a wash of PVAc glue, a nice solid first layer (not overly squishy, but no gaps) and a 10by owens - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Re: Grounded Experimental Delta Printer - 11 years ago
JamesNewton Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Just to make sure I'm not missing something: The > files for the geared version of the Simpson or > RepCrab ,o) have NOT been released? Or they have > and I just having found them yet? Help a fan out > with a link or a better keyword? They're not released yet. Nicholas built a prototype for New York Makerby owens - Delta Machines
Re: New arm design for Simpson style printer. - 11 years ago
Guizmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I believe it could work. You can always calibrate > with the heated bed off, and if I remember > correctly, Simpson will not have a heated bed, > right? The design currently includes a heated bed; the top plywood piece is routed for a QU-BD 200 mm circular silicone heater. The prototypes both have the 24 volt verby owens - Delta Machines
Re: Tri-Polar Bot Concept -- Meet Wally - 11 years ago
Galane Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Or if you want to be simpler and use fewer > components, put the build platform on top of a > Sarrus linkage.designed in 1853. Or you could do this: > The real beauty of these two linkages is they'll > *always work*, producing perfectly linear motion > and no misplaced decimal point or out of range > nby owens - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Re: Tri-Polar Bot Concept -- Meet Wally - 11 years ago
Personally, I'd recommend waiting for Nicholas to release his files, for two reasons - he's a really good designer, and he is taking time to test the printer he's designed. If you want to build a working printer, that's the way to go. If you would like to design your own printer that uses similar mechanisms to Wally, you have the design skills (I sure don't), the spare time to figure out what vitby owens - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Re: Tri-Polar Bot Concept -- Meet Wally - 11 years ago
nicholas.seward Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Here is a bunch of detail. (Don't judge me. I > just spewed dimensions everywhere. I hope I got > it all right.) I went ahead and showed all the > 1/4" boards you would need to laser cut. I used > 1/2" but milled it. You can glue the matching > boards together to get faux milled boards. (6mmby owens - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Re: New arm design for Simpson style printer. - 11 years ago
For anyone wanting a closer look at the arms: This is GUS 2, so it's the original arm design with none of the improvements that Nicholas already has planned, nor anything being discussed here obviously.by owens - Delta Machines
Re: Muxtruder - WIP open source plastic extruder - 11 years ago
For whatever it's worth, I think this is an interesting twist - it's the first of the extruder projects I've seen that I would build. The others seem. . . clunky. This looks like a much more elegant and well-thought-through solution. And your manual is worth reading even just for the details about the other projects, even before getting to the description of your design. . .by owens - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Re: New arm design for Simpson style printer. - 11 years ago
A2 Wrote: > Question: > What is the maximum included angle between > adjacent arms when fully extended? > Maybe a beta tester can measure this. If you mean the angle between two halves of the same arm, they can happily go straight (running right over the endstop switch) if you ask them to. You should not do that, howeverby owens - Delta Machines
Re: Tri-Polar Bot Concept -- Meet Wally - 11 years ago
RussNelson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am thinking that the Big Blue Saw would do a > good job cutting these (waterjet cutter). Has > anybody used them? Looks like they offer many materials, but no wood thicker than a quarter inch. Wally needs half-inch, unless you're going to double everything up and laminate them yourself. . .by owens - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Re: Tri-Polar Bot Concept -- Meet Wally - 11 years ago
MightyMouth Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > I am wondering if an Arduino Nano, Uno or Mega can > be used instead of the Azteeg X1, and if so what > would I need to use in addition to the board that > I don't need with the Azteeg X1? I ask because I > am trying to keep costs to a minimum if it doesn't > add too much complexity. You can get aby owens - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
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