To check whether air bubbles and temperature variation is having an effect, I've just used an infra-red thermometer to check the temperature of the build plate and the maximum variation from the 110°C set temperature is only 0.25°C (0.5°C range) over the full build surface. Richardby RGN01 - General
Sorry, Treito, I edited my post which makes yours look like you didn't read mine! As I said, they are not air bubbles - the tape is discolouring, following the heat lines in the heatbed. Pressing down on them does not change their shape or size and there is no vertical movement at all where these marks are. I've replaced the tape once already (when I wanted to move the Printbite in relation tby RGN01 - General
The discolouration is the tape deteriorating. It is still flat and holding the Printbite very well, though, with no bubbles so I don't think it is that. I use a sheet of 3mm cork under the heatpad and below the cork is a layer of 3mm depron - this is a very good insulator and is light and easily able to take the heat that leaks through the cork. A cheap source for this material is frozen pizzaby RGN01 - General
After about 6 weeks of using my Printbite I figured it was time to report back. I have a Prusa i3 with e3D Chimera and a Mk3 aluminium heatpad, to which I stuck the Printbite using cheap double-sided adhesive tape I bought off eBay (the stuff normally used in arts & crafts). Previously I used a glass buildplate, held down with clips and needed hairspray to print ABS - and even then I frequenby RGN01 - General
The advice E3D gave me was that the 40W could cause the heater block to melt if you get thermal runaway while the 25W can't. This factored heavily into my decision to stay with 25W on my E3DV6 and my Chimera. Hope this helps. Richardby RGN01 - General
QuotePhytone Oh = Richard, my tape stuck nicely to the aluminium bed and printbite. Its just cheapie stuff from B&Q, but yes is a bit of a pain to remove. I'm going to drill holes and bolt it down to my bed. Thanks, Phytone - I'll order some, I think. Richardby RGN01 - General
Thanks, Phytone, very interested in the result. Richardby RGN01 - General
QuoteEmbed I don't order anything starting with " Ali" . Aliexpress, Alibabble, Aliwhoknows etc. Or ANYTHING from China. I learned my lesson the hard way yearssss ago. Now I do use China made parts sometimes, but I do not order them from China, I order them from another vendor . Well, in my experience you are the loser. I have over 30 orders from AliExpress. All but 2 went 100% smoothly and I'mby RGN01 - General
QuoteMutley3D QuoteRGN01 Mutley, I currently have an aluminium heatbed with glass print surface held down with clips. Is there any reason I couldn't ditch the glass and stick the PrintBite straight onto the aluminium? I sent you a similar query on a message from your site about an hour ago - but then thought it was possibly better to ask the question here so ignore that. Thanks. Richard Hi Riby RGN01 - General
Mutley, I currently have an aluminium heatbed with glass print surface held down with clips. Is there any reason I couldn't ditch the glass and stick the PrintBite straight onto the aluminium? I sent you a similar query on a message from your site about an hour ago - but then thought it was possibly better to ask the question here so ignore that. Thanks. Richardby RGN01 - General
Ray23, if you can't get the right thermistors in Holland, what about one of these? Richardby RGN01 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
That is why I have set it up like this. When it Z-probes it is 10 - 12 mm above the mechanical endstop. The mechanical endstop is not triggered in print - the Z-probe corrections are too small for this. I guess it could happen if your bed had a very low spot that Z-probe tries to compensate for but suspect that you'd be seeing other problems in that case. Richardby RGN01 - General
Sorry, I'm not able to test this - I have one printer and it is in almost full time use (when I'm not upgrading it!) When I home with the Z-home (on Repetier Host) then my nozzle is at the 0.1mm height above the bed. After I have set that I do the 'auto-level' using a script in Repetier and this then measures the bed in three places while the nozzle is about 12mm above the bed. When I print nozzby RGN01 - General
It is exactly what I have done. I used the diagram in the posts above. I set the bed levelling gap larger than the true height. I use the endstop (mechanical) to protect the bed and hotend and the bed-levelling sensor to sense the bed levels and compensate for it. I can still adjust (fine tune) first layer height using the endstop adjustment using a 3mm screw on one of the X-axis ends. Even afterby RGN01 - General
Here's how I did this - hope it helps. Richardby RGN01 - General
I want to send a multi-command script to my Prusa i3 (RAMPS v1.4) running Repetier firmware 0.91 - what is the syntax for this multi-command script, please? For Probe start script I want to send : M340 P0 S1000 G1 y100 x100 z20 M340 P0 S550 G29 and for Probe finished script I want to send: M340 P0 S1000 G1 y0 x0 z0 ...each as one series of commands, preferably with pauses where I have used .by RGN01 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quotentoff You're all insane, I just compiled Marlin v1.0.2 using Arduino v1.6.5 on windows 7 x64 with no errors. Not sure I'd go that far - I may be a bit loopy perhaps, but insane Anyway, despite that interlude, I am happy to report that Win 7 64 bit, Arduino 1.6.5-r2 works with Marlin Richardby RGN01 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Are you using 1.6.5 on Windows? I tried 1.6.4 on Windows and had a lot of problems which, as a newbie, had me very confused and frustrated. Reverting to 1.0.5-r2 sorted those problems. Since then I am aware of a a few others that had similar issues and solved them the same way. As a result, I'm nervous to move to 1.6.5 but do believe in keeping software up to date. If you are finding that 1.6by RGN01 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quotegeorge4657 In marlin configuration_adv.h tere is the following line. Not sure whar it does if commented out. Thanks, George - when commented out the endstops act as safety stops. This is exactly what I wanted, thanks. I don't think I would ever have found it alone - I really battle to find my way around the files in Marlin - there are just so many! Richardby RGN01 - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks, Dust. I'm a belt and braces kinda guy and like to have protection from foreseeable situations. I've already had the head jam on the print when the layer fan duct dropped unexpectedly. This caused steps to be missed and then, when the part of the duct that was jamming broke off, the head resumed moving again but about an inch out of position. The carriage didn't hit the frame but it was vby RGN01 - RAMPS Electronics
When an endstop is triggered during normal operations (i.e. printing, not homing) what should happen? Using RAMPS v1.4 on a Prusa i3 I've tried to find the answer but haven't been able to yet. I have max endstops on all three axes. My thinking was that if a belt slipped or anything else went wrong at least I'd have some protection from the carriage / head / bed crashing into the frame. Unfortunby RGN01 - RAMPS Electronics
I knocked this circuit up, as well as a simple NPN transistor switch to feed an external LED for visual notification of endstop triggering and - it works just fine! One step closer to finishing my Thing Richardby RGN01 - RAMPS Electronics
I found that the opto endstop I have didn't work as the 3.2V was too high to be recognised as a low logic level. I removed the LED and now have essentially the full 5V range and it works so I'll start testing the wiring diagram I have shown - the difference being that 3.2V is now 0.14V Richardby RGN01 - RAMPS Electronics
I've measured my opto endstop and get about 3.2V open and 5V triggered so am considering a circuit like the below to get the benefit of auto bed leveling and mechanical endstop. Any thoughts? Richardby RGN01 - RAMPS Electronics
Yes, simply invert the plug (top becomes bottom) and motor direction will reverse. If you have changed firmware and it is homing in wrong direction I'd change it back and invert plug and test. Don't forget that you can test safely - put the X carriage to centre with power off, switch on and command home - then push endstop before it gets there. You will have a little time to power off if necessarby RGN01 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I'm considering using the optical endstop on the bed leveling via a mechanical endstop (i.e. connecting them in series) to do this. Appreciate any thoughts or pointers that could help. Thanks Richardby RGN01 - RAMPS Electronics
You may already know this but if stepper motor direction of rotation is wrong, simply change the plugs into the RAMPS over (top to bottom) and rotation will reverse. HTH Richardby RGN01 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I've now tried 110°C bed temperature and up to 255°C nozzle temperature and no luck - it still lifts from the bed (glass with yellow UHU stick applied as directed by E3D). Photo shows the corner lifting as it starts the main item to be printed. It has done two perimeters only! I've tried printing fast and slow - this was slow, about 30mm/S I think I'll be sending it back and asking for a refund.by RGN01 - General
I want to add an opto 'bed level' unit to my Prusa i3, RAMPS v1.4 system as I implement this - but would like to retain the existing mechanical endstop as a safety because the opto probe will be withdrawn when printing. I can't find any reference to running both together but am sure I can't be the first to try this! Is it possible? Could anyone direct me to information on how to do it, please?by RGN01 - RAMPS Electronics
I did this a little while ago and my retract setting is between 2 and 3.5mm (depending on material and speed of printing - 1.75mm filament) with a speed of between 45 and 60mm/s. This works well for me - I find I can even push semi-flexible material through it without problems (getting that semi flexible material to stick to itself and/or the bed is a whole different issue, however!) HTH Ricby RGN01 - General