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Discuss any sort of mechanical stuff here: positioning systems, gears, extruding methods, etc.
Re: ICSP Mods + Others? - 16 years ago
Maybe this isn't the right place for this, and I don't mean to be rude. I would suggest that once the UCB V1.3.0 "is" made, that it be built and tested before putting in the reprap store for sale. Considering the number of people having exactly the same UCB V1.2.1 problems, myself included, I think this is a fair request. I'll continue this UCB topic in the right forum once I have explored allby Richard - Controllers
Re: PIC firmware - 16 years ago
Question, Whats the steppermotor-small.hex file for? also if anyone knows, whats the better software for pic programming, ICPROG or WINPIC with windows XP? Thanksby Richard - RepRap Host
Re: Another 3 Axis Position System for a RepStrap - 16 years ago
Any idea on the over all lengths of the XYZ axis travel? I looked at the McWire site for this info but didn't see it. Also, just a thought but I would replace the metal pipe caps with rubber pipe caps just for looks and probably much cheaper too.by Richard - General
Re: Another 3 Axis Position System for a RepStrap - 16 years ago
Keep us posted Zach, I for one am excited to see development moving ahead and a new robot design could be a shot in the arm for reprap. Is the text necessary?by Richard - General
Re: Extruder drive screw soldering instructions - 16 years ago
Good to know Nophead, and glad to hear that it is still operational.by Richard - Mechanics
Re: Another 3 Axis Position System for a RepStrap - 16 years ago
Okay guys I'm sorry but I have a stupid question to ask. Will this new robot design require new firmware? I'm expecting my picprogrammer in a few days and would like to know if I should hold off programming my pics?by Richard - General
Re: Low voltage on power supply - 16 years ago
Thanks Nophead, glad your around to help us newbies out.by Richard - Controllers
Re: Low voltage on power supply - 16 years ago
Is the dummy load required at all times Nophead? Or should I ask is this a "permanent modification" or only for testing?by Richard - Controllers
Re: Extruder kit is here! - 16 years ago
If I can ever get back to my PCB's and get them done, and if things get calm at work I will be making and casting some of the reprap parts. As a working fabricator/model maker projects at work can tap you out not leaving much for yourself after hours. I've been reluctant to say this as I would never want anyone hanging on my intentions only to find I get no breathing room or relief from my day joby Richard - General
Re: Complete kit of all parts - 16 years ago
What type of IGES Peter? 143, 144, IronCad, luses? name the type of IGES system and I will check to see if I can save the STL's in that format.by Richard - General
Re: Testing PowerComms - 16 years ago
Thanks Nophead, I was getting a negative voltage of 10.04 on pin 14 with chip removed, jumped 13 and 14 and got an echo. Ran off to get a new cable and things are working fine now, which surprises me as I thought for sure the chip would be scrap seeing that the first cable was bad. Anyway now I can move on to the next board, thanks again for your help.by Richard - Controllers
Re: Testing PowerComms - 16 years ago
Need the smart ones here to help me out, I've built the power/comms board all looks good (sort of), but no echo. Here are my measurments between pins, first with no serial port connection and no jumper on T and X. 15 to 16 is 5.10V 15 to 14 is -10.4V 15 to 13 is 0.0V 15 to 12 is 5.10V 15 to 11 is 5.0V (shouldn't this be 4 or 4.5V) With serial port connected and jumpers on T and X. 15 to 16 is 5.by Richard - Controllers
Re: Next Steps - 16 years ago
The drawings look good to me Dan, I'd say your well on the way, however I'm not so sure nylon or delrin is the best choice to hand fabricate the parts. Both materials are tough that's for sure and that same quality makes them a pain to home fabricate. In some respects you would do better to have/make the parts from aluminum and this would also help with the set (grub) screw issue.by Richard - General
Re: Next Steps - 16 years ago
HMMMMM Well the side of the corner bracket is a little harder to explane but here goes. It is 1.250 in height X 1.750 in width. devide it in half both ways with a line so you have four divisions (+) each hole is set in .375 from the edge along the center lines, the top hole and side holes are all .197 or 5MM and the bottom hole is .312 or 8MM. the other side if you turn the bracketby Richard - General
Re: Next Steps - 16 years ago
Hi Dan: I have found it most easy to use Rhion 3D to open the STL files and simply save the file as a Rhino file converted into inch. Rhino 3D will do this automaticlly "asking what system of measurment you want before saving" once saved re-open the new file and use the tools to measure directly off the drawing. Rhino 3D is a free trial software, but will only allow you to save 25 timby Richard - General
Re: Nichrome wire Ohms clarification - 16 years ago
Thanks Zach, That clears things up a bit better.by Richard - Controllers
Nichrome wire Ohms clarification - 16 years ago
Hi All: Under the guide "none rapid prototype mechanical parts" the Nichrome wire Ohms are called out as 8 Ohms while under the guide "extruder control board" the Ohms are called out as 6 Ohms with the use of Tip110 @ 2A. What is the correct value in Ohms for the Nichrome wire sold through RepRap. org when used with Tip110 @ 2A? Also what is the correct quantity for Tip110? only one isby Richard - Controllers
Re: Extruder drive screw soldering instructions - 16 years ago
Just a sugestion, I would slot the top of the main threaded body and resolder. This would allow the solder to form a cross "X" gripping the whole rod better than a smooth hole. You could also slot the braided wire once "-" accross for even more grip.by Richard - Mechanics
Re: Substitutions - 16 years ago
Thank you both Janathan and Ron, I was just about ready to buy the emitter and collector and build my own housing to fit.by Richard - Controllers
Re: Substitutions - 16 years ago
Sorry Nophead, you are right I did get the 78L05 and 7805 reversed, I didn't notice the pin configuration before I asked. On the H21L01 Robot Objects sells an H21A2 could this be used to replace repraps suggested part? Slotted Optical Switch, Fairchild H21A2 (SNSR-FCH21A2) The Fairchild H21A2 Phototranistor Optical Interrupter Switch has become a standard for encoders and similar applicatioby Richard - Controllers
Substitutions - 16 years ago
Any reason for not substituting 1N4005 with say 1N4004 or 1N4007. Or 7805 for 78L05? I know that with 78L05 it is bigger, but is this it's only differance? Some of these parts are obsolete such as the H21L01. A substitution list would be nice if there can be substitutions that is?by Richard - Controllers
Re: Is this a good motor to use? - 16 years ago
Nophead you must have read my mind, I was giving thought to scaling down the reprap design as I thought it would be easier to construct and a good entry point into the whole area. I could always scale up later once the mechanics are learned. I believe it would be posable to use the existing software by using the lower left quadrant of the build platform only, and at just $6.00 a motor your not bby Richard - Mechanics
Re: Is this a good motor to use? - 16 years ago
Hi All: I'm not a big electronics person so forgive my ignorance in this matter, please give me your feedback on the following stepper motor spec's. Excellent for precision control Can be operated in forward/reverse mode Excellent torque/size ratio Wide variety of supply voltages Data sheet included Dual shaft Check for compatible power supplies Step angle: 0.9 degrees No. of phaseby Richard - Mechanics
Re: Questions about STL files - 16 years ago
There is a program that is available now called "RapidPro", I believe for around $900.00 USD. Basiclly it will import an .STL and slice and dice after which it will plot out the cross sections and print them to a plotter/cutter, after that you peel off the sticky back paper or plastic and stack the layers using location pegs. Looks like a neet system but you become the RP machine. Here's there aby Richard - General
Re: Gears for RepRap in .STL - 16 years ago
Thanks Zack, I'll check out Mcmaster, that should save the hassel of fabricating with Capro, it's a good idea if your in a bind.by Richard - General
Re: Windows setup (need your help) - 16 years ago
Hi All: Well, after trying three differant orintations on the build surface, the X motor bracket finally completed it,s build cycle. Maybe the reprap screen promp should read "Change the object oreintation on the build plane DUMB ASS" Sometimes I get ahead of myself and ask questions before exploring all my options first. Sorry about that folks, ignore the man behind the curtain so toby Richard - RepRap Host
Re: Windows setup (need your help) - 16 years ago
Hi Jonathan: Most reprap .stl files I have tried so far seem fine, except for X motor bracket which gives me the same screen message I posted in my last message. The object that can be seen in the screen cature is an incomplete hollow cone I drew up to test on reprap, I have a feeling that the problem is me and how I may be orienting the object on the Z plane. I have not tried re-oriby Richard - RepRap Host
Gears for RepRap in .STL - 16 years ago
Hi All: I would really prefer to generate an .stl gear for the stepper motors and 4 pulleys for the Z axes rather than going the friendly (CAPRO) plastics direction. If anyone here who has built the parts could pass along the dimensions such as number of teeth for both gear and pulley, finished Diameter of both I would really appreciate it. Once finished I would post the finished .stl fby Richard - General