Show all posts by user

Re: Why is my extruder suddenly retracting/extruding a ton of filament? - 10 years ago

My suggestion is to just use Repetier Firmware. I've been using it for several months now with no problem. It does the job just fine, and I don't need to worry about dodgy print issues.

by amrbekhit - Printing

Re: Horribly brittle ABS prints, very very poor infill + overhang ability - 10 years ago

Thanks very much for your advice, guys. @nophead - I'll have a go at increasing the temperature and also extruding more filament. So do you think that the ratio of 0.1mm layer height along with 0.5mm nozzle is too "non-circular" and is causing problems? @ggherbaz - Thanks, I'll try increasing the temperature some more. I'm using a PEEK head. I am using a glass bed. I was using the painter's tap

by amrbekhit - Printing

Horribly brittle ABS prints, very very poor infill + overhang ability - 10 years ago

Hello all, I seem to have a lot of trouble getting good quality prints using ABS on my homebuilt Prusa i3 (PLA has in the past worked perfectly fine). The prints turn out very very brittle with very poor interlayer adhesion. The plastic seems to have a really hard time bridging any sort of gap, even if it's very small. This is very evident when the infill is being printed: I'm using cura to gene

by amrbekhit - Printing

Re: Why is my extruder suddenly retracting/extruding a ton of filament? - 11 years ago

Ok quick update: I checked the gcode using the fantastic gcode.ws site, and there was nothing apparently wrong. I've tried two different SD cards, reslicing, updating Marlin to the latest version but to no avail. In the end, I installed Repetier Firmware, got it set up for my printer and then printed the same gcode file from the same SD card without any problems. So in summary, I could only con

by amrbekhit - Printing

Re: Why is my extruder suddenly retracting/extruding a ton of filament? - 11 years ago

Here's a video of it happening again: In the description I've included links to the times of the various problems. At the beginning you can see the extruder suddenly retract all the filament out at high speed. It then proceeds to move for a bit and the extruder stops moving for a period of time. I've uploaded the gcode file here: I extracted all the Extruder values and plotted them using

by amrbekhit - Printing

Why is my extruder suddenly retracting/extruding a ton of filament? - 11 years ago

Got a strange problem with my home-built Prusa i3 with Sanguinololu running Marlin. I've had this problem for a long time, but it doesn't happen very often. Basically in the middle of a print, the extruder will suddenly retract at high speed for a few seconds or sometimes extrude. The result is that either the filament is ejected out of the extruder, or I get a blob of plastic in the middle of my

by amrbekhit - Printing

Re: Why is my printer struggling to bridge infill gaps with ABS? - 11 years ago

Thanks for the replies everyone. Interestingly enough, these are very similar settings to what I have been using successfully for PLA (20% infill, 3 solid layers), yet PLA doesn't have any problem with that and I get nice prints. Is is the case that ABS is generally very poor at bridging and the distances need to be much smaller?

by amrbekhit - Printing

Why is my printer struggling to bridge infill gaps with ABS? - 11 years ago

Hello all, I've been printed PLA just fine with my homebuilt Prusa i3 for some time now. I've recently started to experiment with ABS and I've noticed that ABS seems to have a lot of trouble bridging over the infill (20% infill, using Cura). Here's a photo to show what I mean: This is printed using the following settings: Extruder: 0.5mm nozzle @ 200C (previously tried at 230C with same res

by amrbekhit - Printing

Re: New printer motors only squeal wont move - 11 years ago

I had this problem on my Sanguinololu and it turned out to be poor connection between the stepper motor cable and the board (they were using these 4 way connectors). After wiggling the connectors about the motor would suddenly spring into life. So I ended up putting some solder on the pins to make them thicker to ensure a good mate.

by amrbekhit - Printing

Re: y axis shifts mid print? - 11 years ago

@tiimbo Regarding acceleration, try reducing those values. I had the same problem as you on my Prusa i3, where at some point in the print the y-axis was shifting and reducing the acceleration has completely solved the problem (assuming the other factors such as stepper current, binding etc are all OK). Here are the acceleration settings I'm using in Marlin. As you can see, they are MUCH less tha

by amrbekhit - Printing

Re: Blistering/Lifting on first layer - 11 years ago

20 hours, 55 meters, 156 grams worth!

by amrbekhit - Printing

Re: Blistering/Lifting on first layer - 11 years ago

And here's the finished print (Thingiverse ) : Thanks once again for all your help!

by amrbekhit - Printing

Re: Blistering/Lifting on first layer - 11 years ago

Hello, Thank you all for your advice. The problem was indeed too high a bed temperature. I got hold of a thermocouple that plugs into a multimeter (probably accurate to 1 degree) and determined that the top of my bed is about 10 degrees lower than the controller readout. I then did several test prints at different bed temperatures until I found the best one. Interestingly enough, I ended up get

by amrbekhit - Printing

Re: Random Extrusion Failure - 11 years ago

I had a similar issue when I first put together my printer and the cause was that the grub screw at the top of the hotend that was holding the PTFE liner in place wasn't on properly, so the pressure inside the hot end was forcing the molten plastic in the small gap between the PTFE liner and the heater block, forcing it upwards and forming a slug of semi-molten plastic that caused a blockage. Her

by amrbekhit - Printing

Blistering/Lifting on first layer - 11 years ago

Hello all, I'm having some trouble with a blistering effect that I'm noticing on my first layer where parts of the layer aren't sticking and/or are being lifted up from the bed, which then causes the second layer to fail as the nozzle grabs on the lifted sections. Below are a couple of photos illustrating the phenomenon: On smaller fill areas (like the last image), it's less of a proble

by amrbekhit - Printing

Fully working, 3D printed replacement zip slider - 11 years ago

The zip on my jacket broke, but fortunately, I had recently finished building a 3D printer! So, like any good 3D printerer, I took the broken zip parts, measured them up, modelled them in Solidworks and printed a new one! It works great, and prints in less time than it would take me to drive into town, buy a new zip and come back! Youtube: Download the STL file and print your own from

by amrbekhit - Look what I made!

Do you need a 2-nut & spring anti backlash arrangement on a vertical leadscrew? - 11 years ago

Hello, I appear to be getting z-banding on my prints (example attached to this post) on my Prusa i3 and I've been doing some reading on the various causes, and I've come across a few solutions, like the one at , that have the driven nut in a separate housing to the actual x-carriage. In the previous example, the author has placed two nuts with a spring in between them to eliminate backlash. Alth

by amrbekhit - Mechanics

Re: Angled corners and shaky layers - 11 years ago

Perhaps you're getting a bit of backlash in your axes? You could try making sure your belts are tight and that the grub screws holding the pulleys on to the steppers are screwed down nice and tight.

by amrbekhit - Printing

Re: Stepper Going Bad? - 11 years ago

Try decreasing your acceleration values for X and Y. I had a similar issue on my printer, and taking the acceleration down to 300mm/s/s certainly seems to have helped. Your prints will be slower, but at least it will help you identify if that is indeed the problem and you can always increase them later on.

by amrbekhit - Printing

Printing accuracy or printing quality - 11 years ago

Hello all, I recently completed a Prusa i3 from parts sourced from a couple of different sellers, and I'm focussing my efforts into print accuracy at the moment, specifically, hole and shaft sizes. I'm using Repetier host v0.95F, along with Slic3r 1.0.0RC2, on a Sanguinololu running Marlin, with some 1.75mm PLA purchased from eBay and a 0.4mm J-head MK4 (also from eBay) and a heated bed on 6mm g

by amrbekhit - Printing