Funny enough, I'm designing a large format pen-plotter currently and have dropped the idea of CoreXY for exactly the same reasons you state. I'm currently thinking of going dual-motor for the Y axis for simplicity. One issue I was thinking of with using a rod to drive both sides of the Y with a single motor would be how much twist a 5mm rod would take. I don't have a sense for that, so would neby ybanrab - Mechanics
I think £160 is probably unachievable, but I would not give up. I designed and built myself a delta machine where almost all of the structure is laser-cut 3mm MDF, because I had access to a laser cutter and sheets of MDF were either free of very cheap. The repository is here: Let me know if you consider using it, as there's a few updates to some of the design files I need to post. I broughtby ybanrab - Delta Machines
I've used this approach in my delta and so far it's working well for me. My particular design is all laser-cut 3mm MDF sheet as I only had access to a laser-cutter during construction, not a 3D printer. design files are available here: https://github.com/barnyrelph/lasercut-delta The only change I'd make if re-building these would be to not put in adjustment slots for the bearings. It's faby ybanrab - Delta Machines
Sungod3k, THANK YOU!!! Previously when no switch was triggered, M119 reported this: x_max: open y_max: open z_min: TRIGGERED z_max: open Flipping Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING to false got me all switches reading as open and probing now works! BoriSpider, I did switch over to RichieC's testing branch, so hopefully I'll get the benefit of a better probing sequence too Thanks so much Barnyby ybanrab - Delta Machines
Thanks very much! I'll get the RichC testing branch and work my way through the thread. Ta Barnyby ybanrab - Delta Machines
Hi All, I've got my printer running (thanks in no small part to the help from people here) but it's not quite levelled out or calibrated correctly. I can print small to medium parts in the bed centre but out to the edges things are off. Even in the centre, the dimensions of parts are not quite right. The plan is to get a hacky probe on the head so that I can get myself into the right area, thenby ybanrab - Delta Machines
Mine is at least 80cm and seems to be printing fine. I'm on 250mm diameter and 300mm print height, so a little less than your dimensions, but my bowden tube length could be shortened a fair amount.by ybanrab - Mechanics
I'm currently printing without a heated bed, as I'm buying parts for my printer as I build it.Heated bed it the last thing on the list. As AndrewBCN says, you will have quality problems without one, but you can definitely print, especially small items. I've had reasonable success printing PLA onto normal printer paper. As long as you make sure the first layer squishes down onto the paper well itby ybanrab - Developers
It's an own design job, largely laser-cut from MDF sheet, as I didn't have access to a 3D printer to create parts. Design files and a few notes are here: but I do need to update a few parts, based on the experience of building it. I had lots of influences form others on this forum, particularly some of the ideas form AndyCart's printers, so massive thanks for sharing. Thanks Barnyby ybanrab - Delta Machines
Thank you! You're absolutely right, I've just checked and mine are clockwise (as viewed from above) so that's most likely it! I'll swap over this evening and see what I get Barnyby ybanrab - Delta Machines
So I'm tuning my homebuilt delta and I've got the to point where my (symetrical) calibration objects look reasonable, so I thought I'd try generating some name tags for the kids. I hacked on OpenJSCad for a evening an knocked up a nametag generator, which apprears to be operating just fine. I can import the resultant STL into Slic3r and generate GCode fine too. Pronterface renders the GCode lookiby ybanrab - Delta Machines
Based on my reading of the advice i got on this theread, i wound up using a measurement which would allow the effector to reach the far side of the bed, plus a little bit. It's not very scientific, but i can adjust the length of the arms, so i have some lattitude for change. I also made sure the arms can be re-made if I've got the calculations seriously off.by ybanrab - Delta Machines
Thanks everyone for the input on this. I've taken the 'get to the other side' measurement, which is 252mm. Hercek, thanks for the explanation and graph on slowdown, that's something I hadn't fully appreciated. Applying the overreach calculation, I get to 276mm. AndyCart, I've also taken the measurement between tower centres, which is 291mm, so 80% of that is 233mm, which can't be enough to reaby ybanrab - Delta Machines
I really like the idea of just making the arms long enough to ensure coverage, that makes a lot of sense to me! Thanks for taking the time to look. Barnyby ybanrab - Delta Machines
Hi All, I'm building a delta and I've got to the stage where I need to cut the arms to length. On my design, the distance between towers is 268mm and the rule of thumb seems to be 80% of that distance, meaning 214mm. Before I start cutting tubes to make the arms, would anyone with experience mind double-checking my logic? Hopefully the diagram above makes enough sense to go on, please let meby ybanrab - Delta Machines
One issue you may have would be the resolution you get by direct-driving steppers like this. In the image above, the driven arms rotate over about 180 degrees. Given your average stepper does 200 steps per revolution, you'll only have 100 steps to play with. You can enable micro-stepping to get higher resolutions back again, but that only goes so far. I've seen some delta printers using the rotatby ybanrab - Delta Machines
If you do want long, smooth hollow tubes, check out a motorcycle breakers yard (or eBay/craigslist etc). Look for forks for small off-road style bikes which haven't been crashed. The fork legs are tough and chromed on the outside. As an added bonus, the industry already sells bronze bushings ready-made to slide on them The issue you'd have, going that route would be finding enough of them, andby ybanrab - Mechanics
The printer looks great Andy. I'm currently designing a delta printer which shares several characteristics with the Cherry Pi and I was just in the process of re-designing my base to contain all the electronics too. If I understand correctly, the second revision has become slightly shorter and wider. Is that down to stability issues or down to a desired print shape? I'm also using the 250mm mirrby ybanrab - Delta Machines
Andy, thanks very much for taking the time to link to those, it's very handy to have a recommendation and some clarity. I've placed an order Barnyby ybanrab - Delta Machines
Andy, do you have any links to the parts you got on Aliexpress? I'm looking for parts to make a printer and there's a lot of kit on the site, but wading through parts (especially steppers) is somewhat daunting Thanks Barnyby ybanrab - Delta Machines