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Discuss any sort of mechanical stuff here: positioning systems, gears, extruding methods, etc.
Re: 230/110 V~ PCB Heated Bed - 8 years ago
At a glance it looks pretty solid to me. @DJDemonD- I agree, people think of low voltage as 'safe' and I think are careless as a result. The #1 problem I've seen with guys wiring up line(mains) voltage is they aren't careful with low voltage either. As a result you see plenty of fires @ low voltage. Grabbing wires out of an old shoe box like 'oh, its just low voltage, what could go wrong?'by Epop - General
Re: Duet v0.6- non-ATX PSU wiring ? - 9 years ago
Sorry I made a poor choice of links, and Thanks. Thanks for the heads up Olaf. Mean Well Report Bottom of pg3. "" remote control "Specication" Rc+/Rc- 0v~0.8 V Power On 4v~10 V Power Off "" though that's not much practical info. I could try calling them since I've failed to find more useful information online... I don't have anything against the RRP 5v Reg. board but if I don't need it... Iby Epop - Controllers
Duet v0.6- non-ATX PSU wiring ? - 9 years ago
Hi, I purchased a "Mean Well SP-480-24 " It has standard screw terminals and a plug in addition for a remote. The terminal is labeled +S , RC+, NC -S , RC- , GND So... Would there be a reasonable way to, instead of using the RRP 5v regulator PCB, knock down the 24v supplied @S+- to 5v and use RC+- to provide the same functionality as an ATX PSU? Thanks,by Epop - Controllers
Re: Burning down the house. - 9 years ago
I don't think ABS had anything to do with it... the short just happened while printing it. Fuses are good and 18 or 16g should be good to plenty to carry 30amps @ 12v for a couple of feet. Lots of kits are pretty scary though... Pretty sweet fire though... Thanks for sharing.by Epop - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Air ventilation in heated chamber? - 9 years ago
I think your idea is okay but a bit of extra work. I have a single 115v 400w chamber heater mounted on the (cold)bottom of the case forcing (hot)air up- no ducts anywhere. I agree with most of what has been said... yep heats up the air quick but as the chamber as a whole warms the bed level changes and runs different overall than @room temp. without a doubt(not a reprap design fyi). Even thouby Epop - General
Re: Carbon Fiber 3D printer - 9 years ago
I saw one run up close last spring. It has a 'dual' extruder and runs filament through one side then fibre through the other off the little spools you can see in the back(the filament spool is mounted on the OUTSIDE on the back). The slicer software that comes with the printer will lay each per layer(or not). I was also told the support of either material is configurable so you can setup diffby Epop - General
Re: Duet 0.8.5 + Duex4 - 9 years ago
I have the Duet v0.6 + x4 and haven't had any serious trouble with it. Had a few hiccups during the inital setup(the cause was me... fyi. ) but other than that it's done just fine. I also purchased DC42's PanelDUE(4.3) from T3P3 with no complaints. The whole kit has worked just fine for... 1 year? something... I've run in a couple of different configs and they have worked just fine. If itby Epop - General
Re: Oh the pain!... - 9 years ago
Quotedewasa QuoteEpop I print mostly ABS. my headache remover has been a controlled chamber heated to 60-80c. HTH. I am actually very curious about how you manage to make a heated chamber that can go up to 80 degrees. Did you find a way to have all your motors and all your electronic out of the chamber? Because I imagine that a stepper motor in 80 degrees air don't have a very long life expby Epop - Printing
Re: Platform moves in Z - bouncing-movement - 9 years ago
Thanks for the reply, My setup is very similar to yours, basicly the same formula minus the extruded aluminum... - I currently have it in pieces due to faulty bearings on the carrige. The cage is made from 12mm linear rails (4x4x4) joined at the corners by brackets. The rails seat into the brackets by~15mm and are secured by single setscrews at each end. The bottom is anchored to a 10mm plby Epop - Mechanics
Re: Platform moves in Z - bouncing-movement - 9 years ago
I would prefer to be far more rigid. If I need to buy a higher end surface plate/ height gage to complement my dial indicators etc. to align adjust the situation that would be fine... I would lean toward replacing my Z lead screw with a ball screw etc... I see your solution as dampning yes... but will add some 'backlash' as the commanded motor movement will need to exceed actual movement due tby Epop - Mechanics
Re: Duet-DC42 not accepting T+M109/4 same line - 9 years ago
Thanks for the reply. T0 - assuming the first tool is always T0. I usually use KisSlicer but it seems to have issues with large diameters(current attempt is~150mm) . - It 'hangs up' at various sections and creates ribs/blobs on some corners of the facets created by the *.STL. So... Slic3r... Any idea behind the logic of not accepting the T word on the same line as M109/4? Thanks, P.Sby Epop - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Oh the pain!... - 9 years ago
Sorry, Info about the 'abs slurry' is about everywhere. Clay 'slurry' is clay and water... ABS 'slurry' is acetone(typically), some use acetone and an "ABS puck" where they will dump some acetone on the bed and rub a puck of ABS around on it. Some will create some concentration of abs solution(where they just dump some ABS into a containter of acetone until it dissolves). The theory, like ductby Epop - Printing
Duet-DC42 not accepting T+M109/4 same line - 9 years ago
I went with this section because its typical for NC machines to accept this format. Been messing with slic3r, it attempts to... "M104 S200 T0 " and "M109 S200 T0" at least M104 seems to be accepted, print begins at the 'same time' warmup begins on the correct extruder. Cold extruder safety works. If I manually move the T word to the line above it works fine but in multi extruder situationsby Epop - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Oh the pain!... - 9 years ago
ABS? If so... heated chamber or SUPER adhesive. Tape isn't going to hold it. Most recommended IMO is "ABS slurry" or "ABS paste" (abs mixed with solvent) I have broken prints in the middle and it still curls on the edges with adhesive... there does seem to be some tricks to it/specific combo. of heat/adhesive etc. It didn't work well for me, I went heat everywhere.by Epop - Printing
Re: What do you use the software for modeling (Not Freeware)? - 9 years ago
I personally own Solidworks, and am Certified expert by Dessault. I didn't think the few grand was all that much for the basic package. A friend of mine is a fan of SolidEdge. Pro E makes me want to drop kick kittens. Autodesk... anything I'm not a fan of though I have been trained in it.by Epop - General
Re: ABS Outgassing - 9 years ago
I don't have a lot of knowledge but I thought once it was cooled, it stopped outgassing about as much as its going to. when I've vaccum formed 2part silicone molds the outgas phase is super quick. like 2-5 min? at that point its set up and unless I stick my nose to it I don't smell anything even if I store a bunch of them in a closet for weeks. *after I wash off the release agent- it smells anby Epop - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Pitting when printing with ABS - 9 years ago
Running the same settings from before you dried the filament?by Epop - Printing
Re: Are you going upgrade to Windows 10 - 9 years ago
Nope, I don't care much for Win7 and had zero interest in Win8. I agree with Mutley3D on the topic... Microsoft is moving in a (imo) trashy direction with the pre-installed apps (With advertisements... what else do you expect from "free" software?), forced background communication & other services/programs that you can no longer stop or cannot stop without stupid sh** warnings about Micrby Epop - General
Re: oozing? - 9 years ago
Slic3r also has a short layer time setting- Filament settings - cooling section - 'cooling threshold'(at the bottom of the page) ... any layer less than that time will turn on fan and/or slow printing speed. Similar to the Z-tower method, you're still simply giving the material time to cool & solidify a bit before moving on to the next layer. As the layers get smaller the plastic is stiby Epop - Printing
Re: Platform moves in Z - bouncing-movement - 9 years ago
Lead screw has a flex coupler attached to a NEMA23 mounted to the baseplate, the other end isnt constrained. The runout is pretty good IMO and the aluminum sheet/bracket allows little movement in y(flex) while movement in x is controlled by the rails mounted inline in the x direction. The majority of the platform shaking at the moment is during x/y only moves and causes some pretty hedious reby Epop - Mechanics
Re: 3D Printed Margo Character - Kyrgstzt - 9 years ago
Shameless plug... but, it's also pretty awesome! good job. Thanks for sharing.by Epop - Look what I made!
Re: Duet webcontrol(feature request)... Okay, its bugging me - 9 years ago
yep. using #1-3 skipped #0 (so H2-4)planning on adding a heated bed or chamber heater to E0 pins and run all E on x4. I thought it would help keep it clean & in order. There is noise on the channel but it was an asside to say when I also disable/unplug it I get non existant heater info anyway. But... I see your point in simply redefining the tool set.by Epop - Ormerod
Re: aluminum Bed thickness ? - 9 years ago
I haven't had good experiences with heating aluminum... it goes goofy... I've been told buy guys that didn't drop out that "the thermal expansion of aluminum is terrible" So... I was thinking along the same lines but using thin copper plate and a counter weight if I noticed any ill effects from the weight.by Epop - General
Re: All leds on and blinking on my duet - 9 years ago
'all' led's ? x, y, z, e0, bed, power... or just x,y,z?by Epop - Reprappers
Re: Duet webcontrol(feature request)... Okay, its bugging me - 9 years ago
Gah... sorry it took me soo long. *heater 1 and 2 are forced on (I don't have them enabled, or anything in those pins) so I get -error- and a temp reading that is noise on the thermisor pins on the other. I think... I have the latest version 1.06... but... I've been wrong before.by Epop - Ormerod
Re: Platform moves in Z - bouncing-movement - 9 years ago
The assembly itself is solid from what I can tell. Prints are coming out great for trinkets(layer height is consistant, little z wobble), I would like to get it closer for form & fit of parts. So... just jiggling stuff around by hand, I can't detect any movement on the back side. I suspect that the main problem is how much the front bounces around & something... something maybe elseby Epop - Mechanics
Re: nozzle wipe before printing ? - 9 years ago
Yes... there are a couple different ways depending on your board... One is the firmware/config going through motions of "go here, do this on tool select" another is in the slicer ... either way I think its about the same... move to the wipe area, extrude, move over the wiper, extrude, move over the wiper... then printby Epop - General
Re: Changing Filament - 9 years ago
I haven't had much trouble with pulling it out of E3D-v6 without clogging, but my extruder is fixed and the oversized meltzone from E3D causes a 'bulb' at the end and I cant' get it out the top anyway. There does seem to be a trick for loading/unloading filament more reliably & without the bulb than the E-500 F5000 method (aka, ripping it out) but I haven't put the time in to figure it out.by Epop - General
Re: Metric bolt/nut set - 9 years ago
I live in Utah... I goto a store called Bolt & Nut supply(there are 3 or 4 of them)... and get anything I want in almost any quantity, or get it ordered without much hassle or cost. I'm sure they're not the only store around that does it.by Epop - General
Re: Prusa 2020 i3, I need to print a figurine with decent detail. Can you help? - 9 years ago
Yep, 3d printable... not using a FFF/FDM printer. you would need an SLA/DLP type for that kind of thing. Those types are much more suitable for artsy/fancy stuff than useable parts.by Epop - Reprappers