Good point, will try to do something about it. However, now I am in a bit more trouble - I tried to do the H-bot version. While it works, it's not ecstatic - the X axis wobbles a lot when changing XY direction - that's the known problem of H-bots. So now I am working on some sort of CoreXY - we'll see. I'll print it tomorrow (17h print) and assemble it on Saturday.by rklauco - General New Machines Topics
Acrylic sheet did not arrived, yet, but I've redesigned and printed new version of the hotend fan and extruder fan. Now it's just 1x40mm fan and 1x30mm fan, much easier and with much better mounting rigidity. I need to buy 15mm M3 screws for thisby rklauco - General New Machines Topics
Thanks I finally went to IKEA today and bought the new mirror. And also new set of filament arrived so I'll be able to print the new H-bot design and test it this week I'll post new pictures afterwards. I will also test the Chuck Hellybuck proposal - instead of heated bed to use thin sheet of acrylic (1mm thick) - let's see how that works for PLA.by rklauco - General New Machines Topics
Well, not my luckiest day. On the mirror there was a tiny plastic foil on the backside to re-inforce it. I decided to remove it prior gluing the heating element. I was in the middle of the process, when a slight "pop" was heard - and the mirror broke to 2 pieces. Well... I have to buy another one next weekby rklauco - General New Machines Topics
Here is a demo video from the original PrintTable creator. I used slightly bigger cams from IKEA. Here IKEA has something like "second hand" section where you can take a plastic box and buy as many construction elements as fits to the box for 2 or 4 CHF (~2-4 EUR). Attached is the picture of the smaller box for 2CHF. I've got ~20 pcs of CAMs and screws of multiple lengths - shorter, longer, plastby rklauco - General New Machines Topics
Quoten9jcv by the way, I love the sketchup, that is AWESOME !!!! I don't think I could do that that is a very impressive sketch. So far I have just modeled individual parts, never an entire machine. Thanks But comparing to folks like RichRap etc I'm just an amateur It's not that complicated at all, to be honest. As soon as you start to use components as model parts, it's easy. I wanted tby rklauco - General New Machines Topics
Quoten9jcv Wow, this seems really cool. Like it has been out for a while but this is the first I have seen or heard. Seems like you have been working on it for 6+ months rklauco? Yep, that may be about right. Quoten9jcvNow that yours is together, how stable is the cube? Will there be any wobble or is it pretty steady? It's pretty good. I was thinking about using some screws to stiffen it, butby rklauco - General New Machines Topics
Quoten9jcv rklauco , I am just gonna throw 2cents out there. If it were me, I think I would remove the bearings at the top of the z lead screws. Just let them float. That will eliminate the noise and from what I have read, z wobble is worse with constrained lead screws/5mm shaft. b The bearing is there from one particular reason - the Z axis is done differently as on other printers. Each sby rklauco - General New Machines Topics
If LoboCNC does not mind, then I can point out to the github repo of misan with his SW - it's easily doable with DC motor driver, any encoder and an arduino (or, in my case, ATtiny85...).by rklauco - General
So, I've got quite some progress. I managed to get the printer more-or-less done. Unfortunately, I travel tomorrow morning and I can't test it now as my kids are already sleeping, but I am VERY excited. What works: X axis - it's great. I'm very happy with the construction approach. The hotend is easily swappable, the fans are independent from the gantry. All that is remaining is to come up withby rklauco - General New Machines Topics
Btw, I've built the early version of my ToyRep with this motor, so I know the encoder works with Misan's DC servo.by rklauco - General
Not 100% sure, but the 20D looks a lot like this one I got them, but with no gearbox they are weak.by rklauco - General
I made a dirty hack. I bought the full graphics LCD (128x64 pixels) from china for ~$10. The display was defective - the contrast was insufficient and it was very difficult to see something. Luckily I found a way - solder a 230ohm resistor over pins 2 and 3 on top of the interface board - that fixed the contrast issue. But still, the board had some annoying behaviours. First of all - the "STOP" bby rklauco - Look what I made!
I love this printer. I am searching all over the place for LCDs now. I came up with an idea - old cell phone with 3.5" LCD with 800x480 pixel resolution. It can even do the displaying of the pictures and drive the stepper/LED no problem. I even found a node.js slicer capable of running on such android device. The only problem is I broke the LCD on the first one and now I am only left with one, soby rklauco - Look what I made!
As a possible further plan I'll try to utilize the DC motors from 2D printers and encoders and make all 4 Z axis rods independent. Using this, I'll be able to do precise Z axis calibration without anything else - the DC motor can "sense" the physical resistance of the printhead pushing against the glass bed and set it as maximum, then I'll move to the next corner and will do the same, and so on fby rklauco - General New Machines Topics
Working on it for 4 months, this is preliminary result of 5th version. I've tried using Slid3r derivative, but the length of belts was simply too long - tightening the properly made the whole construction too stiff and unmovable, loosening them resulted in poor movement precision. So I've moved to direct driving the axes. I got inspired heavily from the original PrintTable. However, there the autby rklauco - General New Machines Topics
Thanks We finalized our movement and now I am working on PrintTable printer, but I'll get back to this for sure. I love the smoothness and quietness of the printer. Lost a lot of time on trying to do DC-powered extruder (no success)...by rklauco - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Quoteenif I had a similar issue with my full graphic LCD controller, but I could not even see anything from any angle. I resolved the problem by adding a 270R resistor from the contrast signal (trimpot) to the 5V line. I connected the resistor between second and third of the empty pin holes as shown on the photo. See and THIS is why I love internet. Thanks, man! You've just saved me a month ofby rklauco - Controllers
@lhartmann: Do you think it would be possible to have SD with i2s running? I would love to have the web interface in internal flash, but the G-code would go to the SD. Honestly, considering the speed of the printer, even slow "SW SD" should be enough to preload the next 16-32 moves in a single batch... What do you think?by rklauco - Developers
Not sure about the status, but this is from 2012... RPi FreeRTOSby rklauco - Developers
@Hubberthus - you probably did not understand correctly. The current i2s implementation works with 192kHz - so that means, you can control 16 steppers (step + direction) out of it right now with 192kHz update frequency (19x more then ATMega based chips).by rklauco - Developers
Hell of a job, Norbert. Can you share the marlin config?by rklauco - Developers
What is the problem with axial force on the motor shaft? There is a gearbox there, for these N20 motors it's all-metal (I have 3-4 different types and all of them are), so some axial force should not be a problem, according my opinion. I am looking forward to test the stepper instead of the brushed DC - I'll update this thread as soon as I have results.by rklauco - General
Thanks for sharing the video. Overheating seems to be a problem yo tackle... Possibly redirect one of the hot-end fans to the motor?by rklauco - General
Congrats to the success! I will also continue with this as soon as my private affairs settle down a bit. I went different direction - due to not exactly the best results with the magnetic encoder, I will move to different motor. I found out, that aliexpress now offers the same gearbox with a micro stepper. 2 different types are already on its way - as soon as they arrive, I'll continue. @matthockby rklauco - General
Slicing on such CPU makes very little sense. Even slicing on OctoPrint (although working) is very questionable - you have to check the 2D path visualization manually, you have no control on object placement on the print bed, forget about slicing multiple objects for single print, etc. However, to have the SD capability on top of wifi (upload once using wifi, print from SD) would be awesome. But fby rklauco - Developers
Whille I totally shate your oppinion on second CPU, I have to say that for a year I am printing from OctoPrint, longest print for 23 hours straight and I've never had a failure due to serial port. In the begining I had USB problems with Melzi, but this went away when I switched from USB-serial to direct serial connection. We finally moved, I'll have a new desk after the weekend, so I'll be able tby rklauco - Developers
Quotelhartmann While this is incredibly simple there is a catch. The only GPIOs that can be used for this are those with neither pull-ups not pull-downs, for pull-x would interfere with measurements. However, if we allow ourselves to use some P-MOSFETs, like AO3401, then pull-x should be no longer an issue (untested, my P-MOSFETs are on their way). To me this seems not simple but complicated - ifby rklauco - Developers
None of the other Atmel processors (ATmega328) have enough punch to count 2 optical encoders and at the same time 2 step/direction inputs. And you will still need 3 as you have 3 axes. The ATtiny85 seems like the best choice here - it has just enough pins to do it and it is fast enough to do it for one axe. So I went this way. One other driver here was the price - less than $1 for the chip, no neby rklauco - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Yeah, correct. But I went another way. I measured how many pulses I need for 100mm movement and adjusted the firmware steps/mm values accordingly. Problem for the tiny MCU (I used 3 ATtiny85s in the video) is that it is not fast enough to count the high-frequency incoming pulses from both the electronics and the motor. But for small applications such as the 3D printer in my video (modification ofby rklauco - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)