It sounds like they print all the layers (with powder and binder) first and then combine the layers. That makes sense for a factory, the time to print a part would be close to the time needed to print a single layer.by SnailRacer - General
There's a test part in the mendel files. build-benchmark-v1-0by SnailRacer - General
Yeah, I see it too... both in Firefox 3.0.10, and in IE 7by SnailRacer - Administration, Announcements, Policy
If you want to use a focusing lens instead of a laser, just use a large Wattage light.by SnailRacer - General
You could stick mica washers between the heating resistors and the big washer and pipe end. That would help keep the heat in the tip.by SnailRacer - General
Ron, It's my understanding that "Sure Cuts a Lot" flashes the firmware in a Cricut to implement its own custom commands. The original Cricut firmware has two fonts packaged with it, they aren't really on the cartridges in those cases... this means there is plenty of extra room in memory for a few new commands. The firmware is compiled into binary before it is flashed. None of the details of theby SnailRacer - RepLab Working Group
-> John T Schiffer Jr I'm sure the heat exchanger on an air conditioner might get hot enough to melt plastic, but it probably isn't viable for the RepRap.by SnailRacer - Plastic Extruder Working Group
In order to adapt the laser cut Ponoko design to be cut on a water-jet or a milling machine there are several changes to the SVG files that need to be made... 1) The thickness of the laser cuts are assumed to be near zero, so the parts must be repositioned so that the shared cuts where adjacent parts are near each other account for the thickness of the cutter. 2) Some parts are nested into holeby SnailRacer - General
Emma, This forum is hosted by the RepRap project and doesn't condone software piracy. You should be able to use the original key to install your software, if that doesn't work call Cricut for support.by SnailRacer - RepLab Working Group
Aluminum oxide, aka Alumina, is the predominate ingredient of most of the high temperature adhesives (Cerastil, Resbond). If you can figure a way to oxidize a thick enough layer onto an aluminum barrel it might work. Make sure to use fuses if you experiment with this! Also, solder will not stick to nichrome, that's why you need to leave a bit out to crimp on to.by SnailRacer - Mechanics
You can vacuum form plastic sheets. Spinning metal bowls on a lathe is more impressive though.by SnailRacer - General
I think that has been tried already. The nichrome wire actually gets much hotter than the inner temperature, enough to burn PTFE. It's hot enough to burn JB weld. Fire cement, or a high temperature adhesive like those made by Aremco is needed to make it reliable. The design of the heater isn't optimal, because of thermal stresses the nichrome, and the barrel, push outward. Most high tempeby SnailRacer - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I'm sure many pressure cookers are over designed, thus a well built one wouldn't fail at an increased pressure. Some are obviously poorly built, the only way to tell is to use them a few times and be prepared for the potential blast. I agree that there's always stories floating around, just do your best not to become the next anecdote.by SnailRacer - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I think the Freeduino is compatible, the picture of the NKC kit has the USB showing. There's serial versions of Arduino around though.by SnailRacer - Controllers
A relative of mine had a pressure cooker explode under normal use a long time ago (30+ years), there was a lot of damage and severe injury involved. Water can be superheated by heating it in a microwave, so there's no real reason to risk life and limb to cook a bit of starch. It's OK for the water to boil off anyways. The process is similar to corn starch Playdough, but has a good science explaby SnailRacer - Plastic Extruder Working Group
They sell cable tensioners and swivels and you probably could get away with using an eye-bolt for tensioning without the tensioner but with all the crimps and stuff it's probably cheaper to just use a metal rod. They make very good poly-line now, a 1/8" (3 mm) line is rated over 2000 lbs (900 kg) and has very little stretch. A 1/2" rope of the same material is rated 34000 lbs (15000 kg). Withby SnailRacer - General
I would consider filling some old socks with pea gravel and just slide that into the base pipes, you could take it out when you need to, and no one would see it once the end caps are on.by SnailRacer - Reprappers
The overhead cartesian design is very scalable in size. The US navy uses a multi-ton overhead gantry CNC plasma cutter to make ships. It rolls on wheels, and the weight makes it stable, and despite it's massive size it is driven down its tracks by a threaded rod.by SnailRacer - Mechanics
Yeah, MDF wouldn't be a good choice for material. I suspect the belt gear portions wouldn't hold up in MDF anyway. Some sort of engineered hardwood would be better, or aluminum I'm probably not going to follow this path for a RepStrap, it's quite a bit more money than a McWire, or Tommelise type frame, but it would be doable in an apartment, without excessive tools.by SnailRacer - RepLab Working Group
Indeed! If your friend has access to some free waterjet time you could cut the corner brackets out of something strong like aluminum at least. According to Carl there is 0.030" lost to the cut width, and smaller parts probably should be attached with small tabs to keep them from falling into the catch tank if there isn't a waterjet stone to be used. He also says that wood cuts 10x faster than sby SnailRacer - RepLab Working Group
Steel might survive the baggage handling gorillas. Although aluminum is probably more practical due to weight concerns. This would be for a RepStrap, the more options people have to get started the better. The idea is good because it follows the Darwin design, so parts might be interchangeable with Darwin once the kinks are worked out.by SnailRacer - RepLab Working Group
I wonder if a set of 1/4" steel waterjet RepStrap parts would be much different in price than the plywood ones from Ponoko.by SnailRacer - RepLab Working Group
Yes, bubbles in the plastic will cause the extrusion to be inconsistent. That is the reasoning behind the variable pitched extruder screw, it should squeeze out the air. It's simpler, just one melting pot, and a vacuum pump. Under a vacuum it should be possible to heat the plastic a bit hotter without it burning, then "agitate" the melting pot to get the bubbles to rise. When it is ready to exby SnailRacer - Mechanics
Liquid plastics are more like bubble gum covered in glue than like water. There are issues with getting the air out of melted plastic, it must be forced out, gravity will not remove the bubbles. It's possible that forcing the plastic through a nozzle might remove some of the larger bubbles, but the small ones will remain. I would think that a single airtight melting container might be able to reby SnailRacer - Mechanics
I think that you probably could print plastic blind rivets. Like these... This would have the benefit of being able to buy them, and still be one less non-printable part. They do come apart, though they're a bit harder to get apart than they are to put in.by SnailRacer - Mechanics
This is a straightforward idea, the real complications in the design comes from requiring multiple pumps, otherwise there's no water pressure in the output. It also is a good example of something difficult to make with subtractive machining.by SnailRacer - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Replicating Extruded Prototyping, Rapid Additive Plastic?by SnailRacer - General
Laser toner is a mixture of plastic and dye, the black dye might have some carbon in it, but I think they use black iron oxides. Most importantly it probably has a high electrical resistance because of the plastic.by SnailRacer - Plastic Extruder Working Group
The details of the Arduino based electronics is atby SnailRacer - Plastic Extruder Working Group
A RepRap key fob...by SnailRacer - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)