did the bed warm up when powered external ? i had the same problem with the mk2b clone, i ended up replacing the thermistor with one from an e3dv6 hotend clone but make sure it actually warms up when powered directlyby alex.me - Printing
A bit more details are needed, like: Did you configure the firmware to use a heated bed ? Did you supply power on the green connector for the bed ? Did you try powering the bed externally, without ramps to see if it warms up? What is the bed model? Can you provid some pics of your ramps board setup, of your bed (connector side) and maybe the configuration.h of your firmwareby alex.me - Printing
i attached a e3dv5 clone photo for refference, keep that heatbreak free and if possible cool, i had issues cause mine was covered by a mounting nut, making it overheat and jam the hotend Also make sure bed is leveled and experiment with first layer height for sticking. I mostly used polyvinil acetate to stick prints. Its that white wood glue that carpenters use, you can apply a thin layer, it peby alex.me - Printing
if you look at top / bottom solid layers, if you have set 4, then the first 4 and last 4 layers will be 100% and so on As for extruder skipping, can yo make a picture of it ? Make sure filament path is not bent, if you filament curves frm when it goes n then out of the extruder, its not good. Also check your temps, and make sure the heatbreak is properly defined and cooled. And yes the gear caby alex.me - Printing
Well , when i built my JunkStrap i also had to go from 'not working' to 'sort of working' to 'works well enough' to 'damn this works great' I also use only one motor on z to lixt the x, you just need some good tilt control. For couplers i used rubber hose thingie wich were suposed to be zip tied , but i had no zipties so i superglued them xD You can check it out in 'look what i made', maybeby alex.me - Printing
I see 1.7 at filament diameter, if you have 1.75 then set it to that, 0.5mm is important Also, 92.6 is what i have with my gear / motor / microstepping combo, yours may differ, wich is why i said measuring the hobbed gear is a good ideea, ou can use 2*pi*r to determine how much fillament you feed per motor rotation, and knowing that and the motor angle/step and your driver's microstepping configby alex.me - Printing
I built my JunkStrap for 300x300x300, but so far i didnt need to print bigger then 180 You can also use tricks like placing long thin stuff on a diagonal to gain a little length. I'm also a fan of small build volumes and spliting large prints into smaller parts. Its usefull because instead of failing a 1000*1000*1000mm print , you only fail a section, it also saves money on heated bedsby alex.me - Reprappers
hi I would suggest not messing with steps / mm beyond setting it to what you calculate it to be according to toothed wheel radius, step abgle / steps per revolution and microsteping configuration. On my mk8 clone with 1/16 microstepping on nema 17 motor the calculated value is 92.6, i think the toothed gear is 11mm if i remember well. Measure your wheel, set your microsteping, and calculate preby alex.me - Printing
You can also think of it like this: 3d printers are cnc machines, with the hot end as the tool. Now, all cnc machines assume the tool is moving, even if stationary. So, say you have the bed moving on xy, when the bed moves left, its like the tool moved right. Its good practice to view it like this, because g-code also assumes a tool moving in a cartesian coordonate space. Also extending that, yoby alex.me - Mechanics
Quotethe_digital_dentist Very nice! Also good to see someone doing something besides Yoda heads and tugboats. Good ideea, a yoda headon a tugboat xD joking To the topic, i'm very impressed with the design, very futuristic. Nice to see people using commonly available software to create things that can be described s works of art (functional too). Hope it inspires more people, great job!by alex.me - Look what I made!
it may seem silly but my first try was with electric wire insulation, but i quickly discarded the ideea since what came out of the nozzle was far from a thin straight line but more of a bloby curly mess thingieby alex.me - Look what I made!
yeah humidity is an issue. I did notice tho that its highly reduced if i turn off the hot end fan. Probably since the feeding end of the hotend gets rather hot, it may evaporate some of the moisture before the fillament gets to the nozzle. I tried it at 240c , reduced popping alot and to my surprise it didnt jam the extruder.. Also i retracted the fillament to see if it swells / expands in the hoby alex.me - Look what I made!
Ty for the comments, i attached 2 images, one of the printer itself, in a more complete view, and one of a skull that i had to stop mid print, cause i ran out of fillament xD. i am actually surprised by the drawer slides stability, although if someone wnts to build one using drawer slides, know they have some play, i solved the problem by making the holes for mounting the platforms (the moving pby alex.me - Look what I made!
As the title implies , a finally managed to 'finish' my 3d printer. As the name implies, this was built using only junk items and a minimum of tools. No printed parts. Its frame is made off wood from old pieces of furniture, linear guides are drawer slides, belts and pulleys are salvaged from old inkjet printers. Initially motors were from old scanners/printers too, but then i found a nice offerby alex.me - Look what I made!
I agree with toxuin, people got too entrenched in the ready made comfort. I shouldn't say this but that usually is also something that limits development. But to the subject. I started building a printer from absolute scratch as well, thinking of a 250mm^3 build volume. Safe to say mechanical parts came along rather nice and rather cheap (mind you after alot of tweaking, tinkering and improvisiby alex.me - Mechanics
I actually found this googling for an equation to calculate this. You probably solved it but ... for future refference xDby alex.me - Mechanics
Well to answer your first question about firmware, i would recomend marlin, although for a plotter you can get away with Grbl as well As for the conexion issue with pronterface + marlin, make sure the com port is correctly set and the baud rate, thats most important, also, on my knock-off chinese mega 2560, i had to set the baud rate to 115200 in marlin instead of 250000 , for some reason it wonby alex.me - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
A bit more info would be usefull, like some details of the construction etc. But by that work of art xD i would suggest some possible reasons One would be one or both motors skips steps, or they are not "in tune" with eachother, or, one does not meet the torque requirements or the gear ratios / steps / unit are not well defined etc. There could also be mechanical problems. A quick snap of youby alex.me - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Ty for the info george i wil try that, To elaborate on what im trying to do I used to work in a factory where we had a machine that was embossing models on different materials using a kind of silicone wich was sprayed with a very thin jet. The spray head itself used compresed air and an electrovalve wich opened and closed to spray it. That is one of the setups i want to try out, wich is whyby alex.me - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Oh you bet i'll have a camera at hand when trying "unortodox" stuff But as i said its not just about extruding, its abot being able to control other things, say for example if you have someting with a constant precise uncontrolable speed, or things that dont have a speed like the light painting example above, wich would just be an on/ off led Just to clear things out a bit, for plain 3d printby alex.me - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Hi I did a dvd 3d printer assembly and it can be done . Its true that the motors cant handle too much weight but that can be somewhat solved. Most online sources show the printer / cnc with a horizontal Y axis and the ZX axis monted together on a vertical plane. Doinng this puts alot of strain on either the X or Z axis because it will have to carry one axis + extruder / hotend. Wich is why i rby alex.me - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Sorry for being so dry on the details, to be honest im not even sure where this will go since its mostly a development / experimental rig (i like tinkering with "unconventional") stuff. My ideea was to somehow use teacup to give a simple on/off signal to the dc motor, wich woul be preferably be controled by a mosfet. ON motor turns and extrudes, OF motor wont turn, wont extrude. Was thinking ofby alex.me - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Hi I have a problem and was hoping you could help. I am building a 3d printer from "junk" . So far i was able to make the x,y,z axis work , even tested them with a pen n paper since i cant use extrusion wich is where my trouble comes in. Im using an arduino uno board to control everything and the Teacup Firmware. Its all nice and good until i get to configuring it to use a dc motor extruder.by alex.me - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors