This is a long overdue answer... I spent a lot of time fidling around with the TMC2130s... douh... never stop a running system... and... I couldn't get them running... partially yes... Now I switched to the DRV8825 (1/32 microstepping). Whats the main difference? Well... Its cheaper (5 of them for about 15 €) and they are also "very" silent... Of course not to compare with the TMCs silent mode buby Banana_Luke - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
That sounds really interesting! please give us some pictures / photos or a video demo! Would be great to seeby Banana_Luke - Mechanics
Well... Change the Jerk values to a lower value for Y. From 10 to 5. No overheating. I was printing a part with honeycomb infill and 50% density. This testing piece showed me that the X axis got hot with the old Jerk values. Going to increase the max feedrate on Y and decrease X jerk. further Results i will let you know.by Banana_Luke - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Well... you maybe right.. I don't want to switch to a 24 V system at the moment. Thus I change the parameters back and will try a lower Jerk value for the Y Axis. We will see... as soon as i know whats the problem I will let you know. I have this problem especially with very small "islands" or with very high infill (small honeycombs). So I asume that the Jerk value is to high... Maybe maybe..by Banana_Luke - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Dear Forum, I am in love with TMC2130 and on the other hand I would like to kill it. Really... This controller caused me allready some failed prints because of thermal issues... I have a Prusa I3 clone, wooden frame and well... I was using the cheap chinese stepper drivers first and changed to TMC2130. Thank you Tom... <-- Thats me beeing happy. Can you imgaine? Details that weren't explby Banana_Luke - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Guys! Sorry. I had some work these days, I also somehow need to get the money to pay off my tools. Somehow i cannot edit my original post anymore... If it works again I will do so later. Cu soonby Banana_Luke - General
Yeah thats true... But I think when you are not only printing like vases and masks you might want some tools anyway...by Banana_Luke - General
Just added the pliers... I will move the brand Names in the comment sectionby Banana_Luke - General
The List is quite big allready! What about some basic components? M3 Screws? Screws in general? (since M3 e.g. dont fit in some electroni boards...) Some elctrical components that burn on the Arduino/Ramps? Diodes? Capacitors? Resistors? Bread Board? I don't want to make an advertisment but I got those pliers/ cable strippers like 1 year ago and still love them: Cheers! Happy to hear more fby Banana_Luke - General
Hey... Is it the 2.5 Hex or the 2.0 Hex for the M3 Hex screws?? Some furhter comments to: set square spirit level dial indicatorby Banana_Luke - General
Hello Guys and Girls! I want to push of a new topic: I try to collect parts and tools (tool recomendations) you can buy to simplify and smoothen your experience with 3D printing! Please use following form - otherwise its gonna be a lot of work for me...: [*] The name of your thing - Cost: Low High Medium - Usability: Low High Medium - Comment: Your comment comes here The things will be raby Banana_Luke - General
Regarding Systems with two nozzles, there is something else: You can have different nozzle diameters. So it should be possible to print on Extruder 2 with PVA support, at a higher speed with a bigger nozzle and use a fine one for the rest of the print. The question for the demand on the market is some kinda difficult, because there was no demand for 3D printers before they came up with the idby Banana_Luke - Mechanics
Hey ho! Thanks for the blog article... Seems like he put a lot of effort in that. The IDEX system seems realy interesting. I orderd to day some parts to start with a simple bowden system... Than I will upgrade to double bowden with dual extrusion and the Chimera hot end... When this is working, I am happy and will give further updates and photos. I also think that my reprap with wood frameby Banana_Luke - Mechanics
Hey! Thank you for your reply. As now I group the extruders as followed: Extruders With a single nozzle (Prometheus System or Diamond Hot End, though they are different approaches) Extruder With two sepperate nozzles and heater blocks (Basic dual extrusion) Extruders with two in one block nozzles (no X,Y,Z problems --> Chimera or Ultimaker sys For me I also tend to a two nozzle System noby Banana_Luke - Mechanics
Hi Guys! I was using the search function and also was googling it... but couldnt find any satisfying answer... I am looking forward to build a dual extrusion system, because i want to print PVA and PLA... YEAH! Nice support material I am really looking forward to make something like that... My plans were about using the prometheus system, or more exact, just the splitter and run it via my owby Banana_Luke - Mechanics
Hey! Thank you. I Will give that a try tomorrow. Cheersby Banana_Luke - Printing
Hey Ho! Just checked the G code. M109 S190 (S XXX for temperature) each 10 mm ... so the Code is fine. To hot? IMO 185°C looks very nice ;/ just the parallelograms on the right of the picture seem to need further improvments... Any furhter tips? cherio!by Banana_Luke - Printing
Hey guys! Some time passed on and I printed myself a new fan duct. (Hesine M-505, Anet A8 - Center Nozzle Fan) Its the round one that goes around the print directly... with that I was able to increase the print quality a lot... Before I used a axial fan. Here are the results. Have a look. All 3 prints marked with the dots on the top: from Left to right: Axial fan 100% print speed, Radial faby Banana_Luke - Printing
print with smaller diameter and slower print speed... you can set that in Pronterface or what ever you use... this will enhance the print quality but increase the time a lot ^^ regardsby Banana_Luke - Prusa i3 and variants
If u have a 0.4 mm extruder you shouldnt got to 0.4 mm layer height. Your calibartion seems fine... What about the Extruder calibartion? If you extruder 10 mm and measure it... or maybe 100 mm and than measure it again? Is it consistent? Take a look: or just google "3d print layer height" and look at the pictures... you will see the differences... Try again with 0.3 or different layer heightby Banana_Luke - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey... X Y and Z axis are calibrated with the cube and measuring 100 mm various times. I am using Slic3r 1.3.0-dev. Extrusion settings are 1. Especially looking at IMG_2615 it seems like its a cooling problem? O.o ??? On the small tower (its not more than 1cm x 1cm) it maybe also a problem with print speed... Any hints or tips are apreshiated... Regards Lukeby Banana_Luke - Printing
Hey Slim! 1.) TempTower: generate the gcode with a slicer. Than open the Gcode in an Editor... I use SublimeText and have the Syntax highlightning for G-code (just makes it look nicer and fancier... any editor will work, you can google it). Than go for the first line where it says M104 or M109. Change it to the starting temperature of the temp tower... Than every 10 mm (search for g1 z 10) incrby Banana_Luke - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey Guys! After flickering around and fixing various problems with my printer its running "smoothly" now... the only thing the print quality is not as i expected... Well... it prints... and it prints Okay as long as i make Straight - verticall - walls. I couldn't excactly identify the problem within the pictorial guide i have to say... When it comes to overhangs or small prints (like realy smalby Banana_Luke - Printing
Hey ho! I resolved the problem by drilling out the "cooler" from the hotend... it was to narrow... Finally! Last bug fixed on my 3D printer! YEAH! From now on... its happy printing thank you all for your help guys... also on the other threads. Yours sincerly, Banana_Lukeby Banana_Luke - Printing
Hey every one! i started getting problems with my wades extruder when using springs. In the beginning I was using one screw only... and it worked... Well... now I'm using two springs, well now only one, and i allways get the extruder or hotend jamming. well there are actually two things that happen: option 1: The filament gets stuck when leaving the extruder after the hobbed gear and gets beby Banana_Luke - Printing
Have you tried G1 x0 y0 z0. Is the printer in the fron left corner? this shoul be the coordiante center. If not. maybe y endstop and direction of the wrong coordinate are inversed...by Banana_Luke - Printing
Finally got everything fixed... Failure was bad g code ;/ was my fault...by Banana_Luke - Printing
Hello every body! i finally fixe the problem. It was bad G92 code i had in the slicer code settings... My fault! What is the best way to get the first layer on the printbed? atm I am using G92 z-0.35 so the printer will start at actuall z=0 with the print (first layer height = 0.35). Regards Lukeby Banana_Luke - Printing
Z axis: I did 4 x 10 mm and i landed at 39.98 mm. I dont think I am even able to measure that exact... Extrusion: I extruded 3x10 mm and it overextruded 1 mm. Gonna fix that but dont think that one mm on 30 mm is gonna make a big difference. EDIT: Tunned up the stepper driver voltage a bit to 0.68 V... lets see... since both motors are parallel i would suggest that the system while running is dby Banana_Luke - Printing
0.3 mm for Layer height 0.35 mm for first layerby Banana_Luke - Printing