Hello ssh18, For the drive ratios I used 16 teeth on the stepper motor and 32 teeth on the shafts giving me a 2:1 reduction. This basically halves my resolution, but doubles the torque for the "small" stepper motors I've chosen. Since I'm using 0,9° motors, my steps/mm are 200, which is the number of steps per rev on a normal 1,8° motor. The 10mm steel rods are somewhat heavy, the rotating massby jerryjs8 - Developers
Quotedc42 They are not available yet, but we are having a small run of the laser one manufactured at present. Faster! I've had two large prints fail due to a knot on the spool and a few where excessive retractions caused the drive gear to eat a notch in the filament. Would be super excited to get some of those ordered up for my printers when they get released. What's the ETA for the sensors? Eby jerryjs8 - General
Got around to printing some dry boxes for filament to hang off the back of the printer. Been holding a lot of workshops for 3D printing at work and doing a roadshow with our prototyping program, so it's got to be put up a notch in the professionalism department :-) PETG shouldn't have a lot of problems with shrinkage and delamination, but that's what the glue is for... Then... the horrorby jerryjs8 - Developers
Quotethe_digital_dentist That longer length may be good in my CubeX machine that requires extenders to use v6 hotends. What is the overall length? 70.9mm More dimensions can be found in the product description on aliexpressby jerryjs8 - General
Ah, linear rails and an aluminium extrusion frame upgrades, nice! Can't really see much of what you did with the extruder, but it doesn't look like you left that alone. QuoteScooter68Just got the BL touch probe working and finished setting all the offsets. Video or it didn't happen ;-)by jerryjs8 - Developers
Thanks scooter! I'm looking forward to reading the build log of your new creationby jerryjs8 - Developers
That's pretty slick!by jerryjs8 - Developers
I don't think that's movement related, but rather temperature and flow rate. Try reducing the flow rate by 3% and the temperature by 5°C and see if there are any improvements.by jerryjs8 - General
I also got some dual material printers, but also rarely use it for mixed parts. But I do like the two printheads because it saves so much time not having to swap hardware. One side is an all metal hotend with a hardened steel nozzle, the other is PTFE lined with a brass nozzle. One side for carbon fiber and high-temp materials, the other for flexibles and everything else. Unless you got the absby jerryjs8 - General
QuoteMKSA How did you make sure all your rods were perfectly // ? If not perfectly // the PTFE bushings will adapt while the Igus will bind. I couldn't get my housing out of square if I wanted to. And as for aligning the printhead rods, I used a square and measured the distance from front left to back left and back right to front right, left front to right front and right back to left back. Eveby jerryjs8 - General
Thanks! Been a fun project for sure. Hope you're able to enjoy the same results I got! Only thing I would suggest is no grease and use two 5-6mm rings mounted in an adapter instead of a single length as long as the original bearings. Basically just how I mounted the iglidur G bushings before printing the red lightning squirrelby jerryjs8 - Developers
QuoteMKSA So why these PTFE bushings work and not the Igus bushings (I am very happy with my own) or sintered bronze (fine too but messy because of the lubrication). Short answer: A much much lower coefficient of static friction. It's all about the small movements from a full stop to a slight movment, and a slight movement to a full stop. This is also the difference between a 2mm circle being aby jerryjs8 - General
So I did a benchy test with steel and aluminum rods today. Printed the benchy on steel at 60mm/s, 2500 mm/s² and 5mm/s jerk. Reused the same file and didn't even turn off the printer inbetween prints. Hard to get a good picture of the results, but there is definitely a fine wavy structure that's more prominent with the aluminium rods. Also when printing the infill I could see the aluminium rodsby jerryjs8 - Developers
The sliders for the bushings were finish bored with a regular 12mm drillbit and pressed in with a little resistance. The fit had no lateral play but it still continued to get a bit easier to move over time. I'd say they pretty much stabilized after about, maybe 20 hours of printing? I just swapped out the rods for some experimentation and didn't notice any slop or appreciable wear. Still interesby jerryjs8 - General
Just because something costs less doesn't mean it's an absolutely inferior product. Check out my build log, you'll see my focus hasn't been on pinching pennies. I wasted enough money on premium products before trying alternatives. Oddly enough it so happens to be the best solution I found is available by the meter. Just wanted to share a solution that might help out the community and save someby jerryjs8 - General
I started out with the special IGUS aluminium rods with some kind of slippery anodized treatment. They already slide pretty well, but now that the PTFE is working so great I'm excited to see how the new combination would be. I also had the thought about carbon fiber rods, but it's hard to find a manufacturer of extrusions that can guarantee roundness and diameter. Some of them even quote toleranby jerryjs8 - Developers
Aluminum extrusions and wheels are kinda hard to use in an ultimaker style gantry, which is what I have and what I'm using them for And if you already have a printer with rods (i3, Makerbot, etc.), then this might help without remodelling the design.by jerryjs8 - General
Quoteorbitalair Hi, Thanks for the tip !! I'll see if I can try it myself. I started with printed pla bushings, the trick here is to get the start 'sticktion' as low as possible, furniture polish helps. In my design its not heavily loaded (e3dv6 is light). I now know why people dont like the linear roller bearings, they stick at the worst possible moment. "sticktion", I like that term! Yeby jerryjs8 - General
So while building my printer I went through a lot of trying out different combinations of bushings and rod materials. Aluminium and steel rods, IGUS to sinzer bronze bushings, nothing really worked well. I've seen some constructions with several small diameter PTFE tubes in a printed bushing housing, but I simply bought a meter of large diameter tubing and haven't found a better alternative. Howby jerryjs8 - General
How I made the Teflon bushings PTFE tubing 10mm I.D. - cost 4€/meter with free shipping Will have to see how it works out in the long term, but it's been great for the past 150 hours!by jerryjs8 - Developers
So the 10mm aluminum rods didn't work out so I put in steel. Unique to the ultimaker style gantry you not only have the weight of the printhead on the sliding rods as a lateral load, but also have to overcome the friction of the bushings. Difficult when you're trying to balance zero slop and smooth movements... Even after running the machine several hundred hours I wasn't getting rid of the riby jerryjs8 - Developers
Why not just print parts in Polycarbonate? It'll withstand heat up to 115°C (240°F) and should be enough for most places under the hood. Since your thermostat opens at around 87°C(190°F) your motor shouldn't be getting much hotter than than that anyway. And from what I've read, you just want to print parts to clean up wiring and mount components to the chassis. Well within spec of what Polycarbonby jerryjs8 - General
Diese e3d Socke ist der Hammer, kann ich jetzt nicht mehr drauf verzichten! Und klappt das gut mit der Carbonfaser Druckplatte? Und klingt alles schön leise, im zweiten Video höre ich die Schrittmotoren überhaupt nicht.by jerryjs8 - Mechanik
Hast du 10mm Stahlwellen genommen? Und wieso 10mm Riemen?by jerryjs8 - Mechanik
Also los legen Du hast bestimmt noch ein paar 20t übrig.by jerryjs8 - Mechanik
Kann auch darauf ankommen welche Kugellager verbaut sind und wie die Riemen verlaufen. Ich habe bei meinem großen Ultimaker Eigenbau 10mm Alu Wellen, 32/16 Zahnräder, 0.9° Schrittmotoren und 24v genommen. So habe ich eine 2:1 Übersetzung und alles läuft ganz gut bei 200 Schritten pro mm und die Spannung liegt bei 1,6a. Die Motoren werden aber dabei nur ein bisschen warm, weil sie für 2,0a ausgeby jerryjs8 - Mechanik
Well that was fun, realized a fault in the linear guide design that was causing some binding after trying to break in the igus stuff. Problem was using a single RJMP-01-10 per outer slider. Fault is where the press fit caused the middle section of the bearing to be a bit tighter than the outside edges and creating a rocking effect that lead to binding/choppy movements. So I replaced the single frby jerryjs8 - Developers
So my wife was out of town this weekend, so I went to town on the printer ;-) Spent a few days looking down the point of a pair of needle nose pliers... Not something I want to do again soon. BUT, the printer is now fully functional and in need of fine tuning. The linear guides are still fresh and need to be broken in, but the printer runs like a dream Z-axis and two 24v power supplies undby jerryjs8 - Developers
SO.... got it up and running enough for a movement test. Video is with infill @120mm/s, Travel and outlines @150mm/s. Everything seems to be ready to hook up the thermistors and heaters for a full test print. Might have to print my own linear bearings for the extruder though, the standard catalogue collar bushings are not doing well in a press fit application. The collar prevents the outer lip fby jerryjs8 - Developers
Got the z-axis installed and the wiring loom for the steppers/endstops finished. Here you can see the rubber insert to let the ballscrews walk.by jerryjs8 - Developers