Got this. Yeah, the clamping of the grub screws and the metal expansion weren't enough. Trying with 1 shorter screw, that is stainless steel and not nickel plated steel.by RuiCarneiro - Mechanics
Okay, I have think I found a way. I have noticed it gets too hot, and the heater has difficulty in reaching temperatures, and cools down very fast. So I decided to remove the side screws and try again. So far, after 3 successful prints without clogging, seems good...by RuiCarneiro - Mechanics
How can I tell? I've looked it on the side, against the light, and it seems smooth enough for me, but it has clogged before, so I'm probably not seeing metal. Right now, it has clogged a lot, and I tried, because I can't print otherwise, but I think I found something, doing some prints and I'll post here when it has been battle tested...by RuiCarneiro - Mechanics
QuoteMauroPT Make sure you have selected the right thermistor in your firmware. The printer may be reporting the wrong temperatures and heating the hotend way more than you think. Thanks Mauro. I've compiled Marlin to the new thermistor and checked the measures temperatures with another NTC and it checks out.by RuiCarneiro - Mechanics
Quotethe_digital_dentist Do you have a fan blowing on the heatsink? Yesby RuiCarneiro - Mechanics
So, I've bought this hotend: And installed on my printer okay and configured Marlin for the new (table 13) thermistor. At first, when I powered on the printer and turned on the heater without any material, even at 200ÂșC, I started to feel a "molten-almost-burnt plastic" smell, I once smelt burnt PTFE and that thing is horrible, and the "fragance" was (at least) close, but much less intensity,by RuiCarneiro - Mechanics