Quoteobelisk79 A drawing would help visualize what you are proposing, it doesn't sound particularly feasible or practical to me. This forum decided to delete my messsage when i quoted you >.< here's the drawing! The benefit would be to save 70g of weight in comparison to an orbiter setup! I'm not sure how much of a real life benefit that'd provide but it doesn't sound bad tbh. also thisby AmyTheBun - Mechanics
Hi, I'm designing a new budget tool changing 3dprinter, (BOM so far: ) The issue is that instead of going for the planned CoreXY with 10mm belts, I'm debating something, just using regulars Cartesian for Y and then running belts in a CoreXY style for X, expect the other belt path will have a continuous belt and be connected to the extruder. (I'll potentially use a clutch to lock my tools with tby AmyTheBun - Mechanics
I should first mention that my printer is my own tool changer based on HEVO that I call the doot changer. So a few weeks ago when building my new PC I forgot to backup my very fine tuned profile. I got frustrated at that and stopped printing for 2 weeks-month. my printer before that was very reliable. I usually just sent prints remotely and didn't even watch it. i'd easily get 0.2mm tolerance (neby AmyTheBun - Printing
if I remove them nothing changes. also my bed will be REALLY easy to wobble if I do maybe the big 30x300 bed combined with plastic parts? also i'm using rods not railsby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
did you ever fix this? anything you could share to help me? i'm desperate !by AmyTheBun - Printing
QuoteMogal Over all, I'd say your prints are very good. To improve them? Maybe the extrusion rate, temps, jerk and acceleration settings. There is a tiny bit of ringing, but it's small and might not be able to get rid of it all. As for what improved mine? Regidity. Losing the cantilevered bed design. Tweaking my feeds/speed, extrusion, jerk and excel settings. Making sure the frame is tight aby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
oh and also here is my latest print with the new xy motor mount I designed. the "put a cube on top and remove what's necessary" tip was really amazing. this thing will probably never even shake a fraction of a mm! also a few of my friends are telling me that my hypercube is just fine and that i'm paranoid. here are some prints along with the motor mount i designed. am I too paranoid?by AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
QuoteMogal QuoteAmyTheBun also that wasn't very nice some of us just want a 3d printer that works. specially a lot of us don't have time or money to spend on a printer like this. you know how long it takes to try on a new carriage or y carriage! swapping it takes a day! Sorry, was just suppose to be a reality check... I didn't mean anything bad. As for time it takes.. uhm, yeah I know all tooby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
also that wasn't very nice some of us just want a 3d printer that works. specially a lot of us don't have time or money to spend on a printer like this. you know how long it takes to try on a new carriage or y carriage! swapping it takes a day!by AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
i designed this but it has a lot of flaws. but damn is it strong! the idea of putting a cube on top of the motor and only cutting what you need was brilliant thanks it's stupidly sturdy compared to scott's but it didn't improve anytrhing. i'll still work on it. it doesn't hurt to have a super stable one right? in fact if anyone with a hypercube wants to contribute i'd love it i'm making a hyby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
sadly as someone with a low budget experimenting is not an option for me. I am thinking of selling the hypercube and buying an artillery sidewinder insteadby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
My printer IS a hypercube evolution (3030) I wish there was someone more knowldgeable who would help us design things tbh I'm really bad at cad. but considering that im' a beginner. what would you recommend to me? I don't have much of a money to buy new parts unless I really have to. would you saying squaring up the xy idlers and the motor mount would be enough? Do I have to move my belts and eby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
QuoteMogal I really like DD mount that he made. Lots of rigidity there. But that wont directly plug in to the hypercube design. The one I posted looks like the motor actually rests on that inside wall. (ie: no deflection) Hey my belts only slide up and down on the motor pulley. and they only tilt very lightly on the xy idlers on the back of my printer. is this a cause for worry? I mean i tried eby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
try this if your motor is tilted i am making this trying to make the printer a tiny bit better also this is a sample link. I found it onlineby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
QuoteMogal Oh, and watch the belt around the pulleys. If there is any misalignment in the belts, you might see the belts flop back and forth on the pulley as it tried to climb up/down and off the pulley... - This mostly occurs on the stepper pulley as the mount is not ridged enough and causes a deflection in the belts. Mogal's Belt deflection on Hypercube the belts tilt like that on the idlers fby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
I'd start by making sure your e-steps and flow rate are correct. then I'd check if the hotend has any play then I'd check if the z axis or the bearings/y axis or literally anything has play to it then I'd check if the z axis has any binding and does move freely. Then I'd wait for more answers I use acetal POM trapozoidal nuts and they're fantastic. they helped increase the print quality of my aby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
Update: the issue was actually my heated bed not the frame. i upgraded to an aluminium one instead of a PCB oneby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
UPDATE: issue appearntly solved for now by grounding the frameby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
QuoteMogal My guess: - Too hot (The 'x' looks pretty melted at the tips) - over extrusion (Little bit of blobbing going on) - bad (loose) bearing(s) (The different fluctuating thicknesses of each layer) When I print a flow rate calibration test (flow rate test. a cube in vase mode) Some sides are 0.8 and some are 0.9. I thought I mention that! could be some extrusion issue? it's hard to explainby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
QuoteMogal My guess: - Too hot (The 'x' looks pretty melted at the tips) - over extrusion (Little bit of blobbing going on) - bad (loose) bearing(s) (The different fluctuating thicknesses of each layer) now that you mention that. when I print a flow rate calibration test (flow rate test. a cube in vase mode) some sides are 0.8 and some are 0.9by AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
printer pictures! I almost forgot!by AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist How about posting a few pictures of the printer? Examine the prints closely. Look at one of the layers that bulges- follow that layer all around the print- is it bulging on all sides of the print or does it look like it's shifted slightly? Thanks for the reply! It's really hard to tell honestly. I think it slowly fades off on one side? like it's poking out slightly aby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
So. I used to have an Anycubic i3 Mega-S and a week or two ago I converted it into a Hypercube Evolution. And no matter what I tried I keep having uneven layer lines. Here are some pictures of the issue. the good one is my old Anycubic that is now nothing but ashes! The bad one is my Hypercube evolution. Here's an image here in case you don't wanna use the link: My suspicions so far are the beby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
at higher weights it carries less weight. tho the cr-10 is fine. I'm biased with the prusa design. Far less variables and far simpler. isn't sensitive to belt like that and all. IRL the differences are minimal really. it can print faster (Tho mostly with aluminium-carbon fiber, but I didn't have luck finding aluminium tubes and the carbon fiber I could get is all varying in diameter hugely, twoby AmyTheBun - CoreXY Machines
I found out something. this noise is much less in spreadcycle and if I push the bed towards the rear as it's moving the noise is greatly reduced. it mostly happens at 3800mm/s at 3600 for example it's much less.by AmyTheBun - Printing
Quotedlc60 QuoteOhmarinus QuoteAmyTheBun QuoteOhmarinus You're printing at a very high speed it seems. I don't know. Maybe you're just demanding too much of the machine? Both high speed and low noise? It sounds like a resonance by the way. Haven't heard this from my machine with the same drivers. It's printing at 45mm/s :c removing the belt spring for the bigger motor actually reduced it and alby AmyTheBun - Printing
QuoteOhmarinus QuoteAmyTheBun QuoteOhmarinus You're printing at a very high speed it seems. I don't know. Maybe you're just demanding too much of the machine? Both high speed and low noise? It sounds like a resonance by the way. Haven't heard this from my machine with the same drivers. It's printing at 45mm/s :c removing the belt spring for the bigger motor actually reduced it and all. but nowby AmyTheBun - Printing
QuoteOhmarinus You're printing at a very high speed it seems. I don't know. Maybe you're just demanding too much of the machine? Both high speed and low noise? It sounds like a resonance by the way. Haven't heard this from my machine with the same drivers. It's printing at 45mm/s :c removing the belt spring for the bigger motor actually reduced it and all. but now it only happens at 55-75mm/s aby AmyTheBun - Printing
this is a better video on youtube. Anyone any ideas? if I want to make the noise less I have to losen it so much it skips. it's as lose as it can function! making it tighter does increase the noise. I tried removing the glass on top to reduce the weight but nothing change. should I ask someone to cut me a new gantry out of aluminium or something? maybe carbon fiber sheetby AmyTheBun - Printing
the belt tension makes no difference. but should I maybe order my y carriage to be cut from a carbon fiber sheet? the included is SO heavy! also can I increase the microstepping on my anycubic i3 mega-s and tmc2208? it's 8-bitby AmyTheBun - Printing