Honestly MGN12's are all around way more beneficial from implementation than wheels, what I learnt from selecting linear rail carriages for my printer was directly helpful in industry. Just to put that into perspective. They look better, they perform better (even the discount ones), they have more capability (I went on to use them for all axis) - the benefits offset any cost if you plan on ever uby imotion - Mechanics
Nice. I am starting to lean more and more towards a belt at the moment. I cant really find a lot of information about how reliable (long term) the prusa i3 slam-the-x-axis-into-the-top-of-the-frame-to-align calibration method is, I would prefer something which didnt degrade over time (if that is the case). That is the current objective at the moment, however (after I tweak the firmware to performby imotion - Mechanics
QuoteDustCheck the continuity of the heated bed. Perhaps its broken. Oh god, Bingo. Thanks for fault finding with me and sharing the SSR knowledge while you were at it.by imotion - Controllers
Quotedc42 You can't use a multimeter to measure continuity of a DC-AC SSR. Nor will it work using a DC supply and load, because most DC-AC SSRs are zero crossing types that will only switch on as the mains voltage crosses zero. To test it you must use an AC supply and load. They are both 3-32VDC inputs (pos and neg, marked) on the control side, the outputs are 24-380VAC (FOTEH SSR-25 DA) and 24-by imotion - Controllers
I purchased a solid state relay to switch 240V silicone heating pad, but I get no continuity when its receiving power (it doesnt close). I guessed it was a dud, but a replacement (different brand) also doesnt close when it receives power. I have tried WITH the load to see if maybe it required that to latch closed or something weird but no luck. Any ideas why? Its 24V control side, correct polarby imotion - Controllers
QuoteMKSA Quotethe_digital_dentist There's another option- use one motor and belt the two Z axis screws together. They will never get out of sync because they can't (at least as long as the set screws in the pulleys are tight). Why make it simpler, cheaper, better ? So much fun trying to fix issues one creates The idea is that the parts purchased will be re-purposed in any future builds. Forby imotion - Mechanics
Quotedc42 There are various automatic ways of levelling the motors if they get out of step and you use separate drivers: - Reduce motor current and stall-home them against individual Z max physical endstops - Use a separate endstop switch for each motor, then home them simultaneously but independently - Use the Z probe to probe 2 or more points on the bed, then the firmware computes and appliesby imotion - Mechanics
I have fit dual Z steppers to my printer, well aware of the conflicting opinions regarding dedicated stepper drivers (in my case) for each motor vs. Single stepper motor driving 2 lead screws via timing belt.. I have dabbled in the idea of using a belt but it's not aesthetically pleasing. Initially, I purchased THAT kit - but the supplied belt was too short, I just needed another stepper motor fby imotion - Mechanics
By hand with power tools? Or by hand tools? Either way I would hit it with a sander at the end of the cut. You wont get anywhere near mill quality without a drop saw, though. Your mates will look crappy unless hidden behind corner brackets. On that note, drop saws can come in small sizes and be cheap.by imotion - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quoteboredom.is.me Just don't. A mill/router and a printer operate at the exact opposite ends of the spectrum. If you try a dual purpose build, it will be garbage at both. Plus you say cheap while referring to a 60" square build. Is $700 worth of electronics cheap enough? That doesn't even include any of the mechanical stuff. Rails may be another $1000. Then you have the ball screws or r&aby imotion - Extruded Aluminum Frames