The one on the end adds control without majorly increasing weight. It's not meant to help with extrusion, but rather to reduce the backlash of the filament, reducing string and allowing printing with flexible filament. Hopefully.by Regicide - Plastic Extruder Working Group
The idea is that they both drive at the same time, using a stepper splitter. The small extruder will extrude when the large one extrudes, and vice versa. I'm getting the parts to do some prototyping, I'll keep posting.by Regicide - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Rotary tumblers are really intended for polishing rocks, and will remove large surface bumps. If you put a 3d print in a rotary tumbler, my first instinct is that parts will likely break, and surface features will be degraded. I've attached an image so you can see the degradation that comes with tumbling.by Regicide - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Yeah, I recommend always having a ruler on hand so that you can look at dimensions. 20 mm is pretty thin. I'd reccomend 20-4040 for the z axis and 20-2040 for the crosssuports, with 2040 supports in the middle of where you will be mounting your x-axis. Also... sorry to be that guy, but I found this yesterday and it's a goldmine.by Regicide - CoreXY Machines
For a long time, extruder weight has been a compromise. Direct drive is heavy but grants greater capabilities to actual extrusion, while Bowden is light but sacrifices print quality and reliability. It’s time for a change. I call my concept a Valved Bowden, although truthfully, it’s a direct drive extruder being fed by a Bowden. Let me explain. Direct drive weights are being reduced with gearingby Regicide - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Actually... I'm working on an idea right now that could change that. I'm considering posting it in the "Let's design something" Thread, but that seems to be particularly barren. I don't want to hijack this thread, so I'll post somewhere else and then edit this with a link.by Regicide - CoreXY Machines
Heated chambers seem like a recipe for disaster when it comes to cooling solutions. Water cooling is one good option, E3D has a watercooled Titan here, which would probably also cool your extruder motor: if it doesn't, here is a company which makes watercooling blocks specifically for 3d printing. If that's too expensive (and it's rather expensive), then you can try this, which is a high temperaby Regicide - CoreXY Machines
I've been sourcing parts for my upcoming printer build for... quite some time now. While looking for linear rails, I found this, which is the 3dfused DIYcore system. It looks like a fantastic machine with very few visible issues, and it seems most similar to the E3D motion system, which it is based off of. It seems fairly new, as I remember having a look at the Kreatos but not seeing this. 3D fusby Regicide - CoreXY Machines
I'll have a look at aluminum tubing, that seems like it could be what I'm looking for. My only concern would probably be mounting the linear rails, but it wouldn't be too difficult. Thanks for your suggestion. As for toolchanging, I've indeed looked at that, but I have several concerns: 1. It's expensive, especially if you go with the E3D method. 2. It seems to require fairly high tolerances andby Regicide - CoreXY Machines
I'm trying to figure out how to make my x-axis lighter, especially since I'm considering DDDE (Direct Drive Dual Extrusion). However, with the extra weight of the print head, I'm wondering what I can get away with for lightening the x-axis. My design's pretty conventional, and heavily based off of the_digital_dentists' UMMD, with the exception being that I don't currently have access to metal milby Regicide - CoreXY Machines
Longshot, but if nothing else works, ferrite lumps are supposed to help to filter noise.by Regicide - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I've actually entirely disassembled the 3d printer: my plan isn't to use the chassis as a 3dprinter/CNC, but to recycle some of the parts, like the linear rods and leadscrews. I am interested as to whether the raw motors and leadscrews will be up to snuff, or will I have to upgrade those as well: at that point, it's not really worth using the salvaged parts for a CNC.by Regicide - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Okay, Design elaboration time. I'll 3d print 4 mounts and put them on the baseboard. I'll add the two threaded rods I own and the 340 mm linear rods, in a threaded rod directly beside linear rod configuration. On each of these pairs of rods, I'll add a 3d printed carriage, and these carriages will support a 420 mm threaded rod that I'll buy and the two 420 mm linear rods I already have. This wiby Regicide - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Okay, this might be a bit of a long post chain. I've been 3d printing for 3 years, and have two machines. However, my older machine, an Anet A6, is kaput. I've managed to salvage some parts, listed below. 5 Nema 17 steppers and wires 2 320 mm leadscrews and nuts 2 340 mm linear rods 2 380 mm linear rods 2 420 mm linear rods 8 linear bearings 1 PSU 3 endstop switches I also have a rotary toolby Regicide - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I actually was going to go corexy eventually. As for the AC vs DC, I was thinking about getting an additional smaller DC belt for when I'm printing small, just to decrease electricity bills.by Regicide - Mechanics
I'm currently working on the design of my future 3d printer, and I'm ready to start building. My build is basically a complete part replacement of an Anet A6, along with a substantial print size increase (up to 400x400x500 or 600). The print head is going to be a dual Titan direct drive Chimera, and I'm wondering what belt size I should use for such a whopper of a head. I'll be using compact andby Regicide - Mechanics
I'm interested now, because that's really thin. Do you know if there are any figures out there for thermal transmissiveness?by Regicide - General
0.008" is really thin, are you sure? The reason I pointed this out was that the insulation properties would be roughly the same, but without the high price. I'm interested to see how your project turns out though.by Regicide - General
I'm trying to figure out how to support my x-axis on a corexy with linear guides. I'm using LDO rails and blocks from 3dFused, and I have a 450 mm span to cross. I don't have access to any milling equipment beyond a handheld dremel with cutoff wheels, grinders, etc. Any suggestions? I'll elaborate if more information is required.by Regicide - Mechanics
I'm doing something very similar, with similar goals, and I would strongly advise you to reconsider either your goals or your price point. I'm converting an Anet A6 to a 300x300x450 mm build size corexy printer using an extruded aluminum frame. My main goal is high speed and high accuracy for any type of filament. While Anet makes cheap printers, they don't make good printers. You won't be abby Regicide - Mechanics
I'm designing a direct drive dual extruder printer using the E3D Chimera+ Aqua and 2 E3D Titans. I know, I know. The Chimera+ is meant for Bowden extrusion. However, I personally dislike the amount of play that a Bowden system adds, and my build is a no-compromises one. I'm using all name-brand parts and I expect to have very low backlash. I'm using 12 mm belts and E3D Super Whopper motors in a cby Regicide - Mechanics
I was browsing CNC machines, when I came across linear rail covers that are very similar to the bellow material in the Stratasys patent. A quick search on McMaster revealed them to be called "flat bellows". They can be found in a lot of places with widths of up to 130 mm, so I could potentially see multiple sheets of this material being used for insulating the top of a 3d printer. Enjoyby Regicide - General