QuoteBublgumI tested resistance at the terminals for the hot end and got 0.Sounds like your hot end served as a fuse and released it's magic smoke.by cdru - Controllers
Depending on the material as well as the design, you may have an issue where the plastic can't handle the fatigue or other mechanical stresses of repeated flexing. Your lever for example likely wouldn't bend as shown on the vertical "post". What is more likely is that the horizontal "beam" would flex until the point where the yield strength at the T is reached and then it snaps.by cdru - General
I've always liked <A href="">anchor tags</a> but this one is also a classic.by cdru - General
QuoteBublgum the heated plate and hot end got really hot - really fast. Steam under the glass within seconds and what looked like steam or smoke from the hotend. Now both the hot bed and hot end are very very slow at heating up. Almost 15 minutes in and temp is only 94 C on the hot end and 36 C on the plate.I don't think that was steam. Maybe a little bit of smoking when you turn it on for theby cdru - Controllers
Quote3dMisteryProblem is following-if we take into account that 1 heatbed requires 10A 12V, which means 120W-four in parallel would be 40A 12V. 40A requires really thich wires that I can't put inside my printer.You'd only need 40 amps up to a common point where all heat beds are joined. Individually, they'd still just pull 10amps. You can also run multiple conductors to spread the load betweenby cdru - Controllers
I'd start off with a standard 200x200 heatbed design (i3, Mendel90, etc) or a delta with a similar sized bed. Get your feet wet before you start going with something larger. The Mendel90 is functionally pretty similar to the P3Steel but doesn't require a laser cut steel frame. Most any sign shop in your area should be able to get you the Dibond (or equivalent) you'd need for not too much. Theyby cdru - General
Quotejhi0417Our goal is to raise $9,000 and provide this money to NGOs who have been working with and assessing further relief efforts.While your effort is noble, why not just donate directly to the NGO or similar organizations? It cuts out the middleman, the percentage that IndieGoGo takes as a processing fee, as well as ensures the funds make it where they were intended to go. Plus, the donatiby cdru - General
You're trying to power them both at the same time? You're exceeding the limits of the polyfuse which is only rated at 5 amps. Each hot end will take ~2.5 amps by itself not counting all the other things that need power. Try connecting both hot ends directly to the 12V power supply (not through the ramps board. You still need the - to be connected to the Ramps board to be controlled by the mosfeby cdru - Mechanics
QuotestilgarhammerOn the firmware, the seller sent me a copy of the Repetier software. I also have the display unit connected to the board. when I connect board to my pc, it goes through the compile but then soon after during upload I get a error stating its not responding. Do I need to connect the 12 power unit to board also, and not power the board only with USB cable?Do you have your serial poby cdru - Mendel90
Quotemalemodelhow do i test for bad thermistor wiring - i mean it apparently works. what would a bad wring in this case mean?Thermistors work by varying its resistance based on temperature. Typically a NTC resistor is used, which means as temps go up, resistance goes down. If you have a loose connection, corroded connector, anything that would add resistance your temp readings can be skewed. Cby cdru - General
Quotealan richard What will a multimeter tell him? That AC supply has neither +ve or -ve -aIf he has a polarized plug (and a properly wired outlet) a multimeter would tell which colored wire is connected to which spade. So he could could hook up the line to the hot and neutral to the neutral. It likely doesn't matter, but in case it does...by cdru - General
That's not a Melzi board (or at least not one that I've ever seen) though it looks like all the pages for it has that in the name. What problems are you having trying to upload firmware? And what specifically do you need for a hookup diagram? The ports across the top are the stepper motors. I can make out the labels for the white headers along the right for the min and max endstops. The screwby cdru - Mendel90
I've done something similar. With a servo, z-probe, LED lights, plus a hot end fan the ribbon cable just didn't have enough wires with the stock design. So I doubled up the ribbon cables and used two IDC connectors similar to yours. Plenty of wires now and spares if I never need something more.by cdru - Mendel90
Check for bad solder joints on your heated bed mosfet.by cdru - General
Quotejessicabrenner HOLY CRAP, I just disconnected the power supply from the printer to inspect the connection. Upon touching the outer metal plate of the DIN connector (which is supposed to be ground probably), I get zapped!!!! So I moved to a new outlet (one that doesn't look like it was built in the 1800s), and I don't get zapped. So the problem was that I was using a super old outlet that isby cdru - General
Another thing is the power requirements if you are going to have a heated bed. A much larger bed requires much more power. You're looking at minimum at some type of external power control and either much higher current, higher voltage and current, or switching to mains power if you want things to heat up in a reasonable period of time.by cdru - Mendel90
What is powering your RAMPS board? I experienced something similar when I (under)powered my RAMPS by way of a Raspberry Pi that didn't have a large enough power supply.by cdru - RAMPS Electronics
QuotegordonendersbyI got the impression he was on the limits of his existing supply.No, he's using the Arduino's regulator to produce the 5V to power the servo which can produce the results he's experiencing. When he plugs in the USB cable, the 5V is pulled from the USB connection bypassng the regulator. My guess is that he's right at a threshold where the regulator struggles, but the USB conneby cdru - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteAndrewBCN Method #3This presumes that the signal has the chance to backfeed the microcontroller via the signal line. Depending on the servo, the signal wire may be effectively isolated electrically so that the servo's supply voltage can't backfeed the pin.by cdru - RAMPS Electronics
Keep your existing LED power supply. There's no reason to pay the extra for a decent ATX power supply that you may have to jump through hoops to output it's rated power just to get a few hundred mA of 5V. Just get a buck-boost power supply to efficiently regulate the voltage down to 5V. Search "LM2596" on Amazon or Ebay for a bunch of options for a couple of bucks.by cdru - RAMPS Electronics
If going Cartesian route, Mendel90.by cdru - General
Specifically (emphasis added): The 5V pin in that connector on RAMPS only supplies the 5V to the auxiliary servo connectors. It is designed so that you can jumper it to the VCC pin and use the Arduino's power supply to supply 5V for extra servos if you are only powered from USB or 5V. Since there is not a lot of extra power from the Arduino's power supply you can connect it directly to your 5V pby cdru - RAMPS Electronics
Has anyone actually seen or heard of someone that has this printer other than the MarkForged?by cdru - General
Quotebob the builder I think I may have seen it get to 301 before heading back to 250?Way to hot for a true jhead (one that uses peek). About 250 is the maximum operating temperature for the PEEK and it's really recommended to not operate anywhere near this temperature.by cdru - Printing
If you look at it's datasheet, you'll see the attached image. The two sides of the circuit are separated by an phototriac which would serve as the optocoupler, isolating the AC mains voltage from the DC printer voltage.by cdru - General
Quotetjb1the main reason Z endstops are on MIN is because the speed of a threaded rod driven axis is quite slow and you need to be near MIN to print anyway so it is wise to home at that location rather than wait for it to travel from MAX.An opposing viewpoint It takes a few minutes for a printer to heat up particularly with a heated bed, time that could easily be spent moving up and down. And eby cdru - General
QuotegustavogoulartBut if I put the glass on top the sensor wont read the irregularities fo the glass, right? Unless I can find a 100% flat glassYou won't find 100% flat glass. For how we use it and the size we use it though, float glass is flat enough. You'd have to adjust your offset to accommodate for the glass thickness, but the glass also makes for a harder surface that's more durable. It'sby cdru - Printing
It's an option. Some people swear by using an aluminum plate as a heat spreader, some people swear just a pc board + glass is fine. Neither are right or wrong, it's just...an available option. Same thing goes for what hot end to use, mechanical vs opto vs hall effect end stop, etc...by cdru - General
Quotedc42(who said you couldn't get a large build area from a delta?): I think it's been proven that you CAN get a large print area from a delta.by cdru - General