Taking this just a little bit off topic, but you want to put things in perspective: People are actually falling for this. There is a mean little part of myself that wants to point and laugh. How does it work? "laser light sources which produce three-color beams, illumination part that makes the specific shape and uniform distribution of light intensity; laser-beam optical focusing system; andby Feign - General
Commonly, the way to do this is to print the contour pieces for use in a vacuum forming table. This way you can print your contour in several smaller pieces and then assemble them to form one smooth piece of plastic on top of the assembled contour (and still be able to pull out the same contour to vacuum mold more of the same piece later if desired.) Only tricky part I guess is to make sure thaby Feign - General
Sorry to resurrect an old post, but I figured it would interest you guys to see what the Peachy team came up with for damping the mirrors. Here's a little Youtube video demonstrating it. I didn't make this video, though after finding it, I just had to try it myself. It seems like this could be very useful in other 3D printing situations, but I'm drawing a blank as to what exactly. Also, they'veby Feign - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
QuotecdruYou can only print out so many miniature replicas and chess pieces.There's a whole hobby full of people who want lots and lots of small miniatures. QuoteKurzaa I was thinking for printing out jewelry to cast into gold. Though now I am wondering if the resin will work for "lost-wax" casting. There is specifically formulated resin from MadeSolid intended for investment casting. Consideriby Feign - General
I definitely like the new mounting bracket, that looks stylish. As for the whole printer... Either a glass tower printer, or water cooled extruder, or hanging, counterweight suspended Bowden extruders, or triple feed extruder would have been enough to make this printer look unique. Having all four of those things in one printer is downright bizarre looking. And I don't mean that in a bad way.by Feign - General
It probably wouldn't be too hard to make something that separates the belts, I would just make that to ease my mind if nothing else. Weather or not it's enough to affect printing though is up to experimentation then, the proof is in the printing. Though I agree you ought to keep an eye on the heat in the belts as well.by Feign - CoreXY Machines
QuoteXabbaxI have a delta with 3 extruders suspended from the top by 3 cables and counterweight system. A video at Wow, that thing is a monster! I remember seeing your thread with the tri-color extruder, but seeing it all together combined with the hanging Bowdens and coolant tubes makes it look intimidatingly complex (and at the same time, dangerously fragile, the way it all shakes and rattleby Feign - Delta Machines
That does look pretty awesome, but I wonder if you'll run into problems at that intersection. It looks like the belts are rubbing against each other. While the effects of that are minimized since it's the smooth side of the belts that are touching, it still seems like they might wear on each other over time or introduce artifacts with one belt tugging on the other slightly as it moves. If it dby Feign - CoreXY Machines
Before going to far into considering DCM for PLA smoothing, consider that this is a very old thread and that the process has been pretty much abandoned in favor of using the solvent Ethyl Acetate, which is a much much safer chemical than any that are discussed in this thread. Here's a link to the newer thread. There are reasons that it's not the best idea to resurrect dead threads, guys.by Feign - General
QuotecdruHas the Peachy printer even shipped? Last posted on their blog ship date was put off until March-June of 2015. Kind of hard to look at one when they don't exist yet.They have had a pretty open beta testing process, and it seems like the drip feed mechanism turned out to be one of the least problematic parts of the Peachy printer concept (and even it needed some ironing out in early betby Feign - General
The downside is that the belt is a little over 50% longer than the traditional setup, making the positioning less stiff.by Feign - General
There are as many ways to 3D scan an object as there are to print one (possibly more). For large-scale scanning, you want to look up photogrammetry, where you take dozens of photos of each thing (in this case, each person) that you want to make into a model and run it through a program. When I say dozens, I mean between 30 and 50 photos, from every angle possible, with all photos having the enby Feign - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Their site (CreoPop) estimates April 2015 for the ship date, but tend to take ship date estimates with a grain of salt. They have an option to pre-order it on their site for $4 per cartridge, they don't say exactly how much is in one but it mentions "Each ink cartridge can print a 14 meter line at 3mm diameter" which comes out to 660 cm3. Err, 0.659 liters if my math was right there. But halfby Feign - Polymer Working Group
I was just looking at the new CopperFill and BronseFill filaments from Colorfabb and one video mentioned that polishing the print in a rock polisher turned out quite well. It immediately made me think of this thread. I noticed that it did poorly with the Woodfill, but has anyone tried EA polishing some of the Colorfabb metal-impregnated PLA filaments?by Feign - General
I don't think I would ever that. Seems like a quick and reliable way to destroy a perfectly expensive airbrush. Now running a very fine acetone spray through the airbrush for vapor smoothing (with lots and lots of safety gear on) seems like it would be highly effective.by Feign - General
Well, unless you do some to very quickly cure the polyurethane as it gets deposited, it will continue to expand and then contract as it out-gasses, giving you a warped surface on the individual beads, which I assume would not do well for the larger structure. If you add a heat source to quickly cure a shell on the bead, the pressure for the gasses is contained. basically, there's nothing stoppiby Feign - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
The Joris Laarman MX3D Resin is a robot arm that has a 2-part mixer and a pair of heat guns at the end. The mixture forms a heat-curing expanding foam that gets quickly cured by the heat guns as soon as it exits the nozzle. In theory, this could be scaled down to the size of a regular hot end on a RepRap, but I've not seen it done yet.by Feign - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I'm very curious to see how this project is going. Has there been any progress in the past six months or has Shrub moved in a different direction with this entirely?by Feign - Mechanics
Thanks RegB... Man, that was a great tutorial, but it looks like modelling mechanical things in Blender is like trying to make slide presentations in Photoshop. Basically, it reinforced my decision to stick with 123D Design for the mechanical stuff. I also have Designspark Mechanical and Sketchup, but haven't used either of them at all. How do they compare to 123D Design? (I don't need to knby Feign - 3D Design tools
Well, just this morning, I got an update from the CreoPop campaign that I pledged for, and while most of it was a "business as usual" update, they mentioned that they have made a breakthrough with their conductive material along with a Youtube demonstration of it working. I had previously thought that conductive photopolymer was a pipe dream, and the pursuit of it was one of the things that inteby Feign - Polymer Working Group
All these people using SolidWorks and Inventor for free. Sometimes I wish I weren't so honest. I'm trying to use Blender and Autodesk 123D Design, but more often find myself using Meshmixer and Wings3D, because they're so lightweight and easy to just pop open and mess around with on my laptop.by Feign - 3D Design tools
It seems like it would drag/remelt the printed plastic pretty badly while the head is moving parallel to the line of the extruder nozzles. Also, yeah, even if you use lost PLA casting to turn a FFF printed hotend blank into an aluminum one, the machining to get the taper on all those holes would take a painfully long time. Also, there's not much of a thermal break here, all those heat carts areby Feign - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
There are a few things I would change (I mentioned them in the other thread you made for this) and there are a few places where you can simplify each stringing path, but mainly you have to answer the ace old question of "why?". And then you ask "Why not Core XYZE?" where there's a fourth belt to remotely drive an extruder at the head.by Feign - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I definitely like the CoreXYZ better than the x+y+z though I would flip it on its side so that the axis you currently have in the Y is instead in the Z. Either system would benefit from flipping onto its side, in fact, allowing a more traditional z-axis for the higher precision and stability that the z-axis needs (and removing that bothersome y-axis that you have on both of these)by Feign - CoreXY Machines
I just came across a rather interesting campaign on IGG, IVPort It looks like the guy selling it is demoing it as a multiplexer for video, just switching between camera modules on a 1 second delay, but with it able to self stack up to 16 camera modules on a single Raspberry Pi, I'm thinking of setting the delay to the time of a single high-speed frame and using it as a 3D scanner. That would beby Feign - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
Miertam, I was figuring that the stall torque on a tiny motor like this wouldn't be enough to damage filament. Just enough to provide a constant pull or constant push as the filament feeds or retracts. Before I was thinking of using a tiny printed air vane motor I found on Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:620) under fairly low pressure for it. Not enough push to really grind the fby Feign - General
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but would it be a good idea to use a small motor at the end of your tube in a Bowden set-up? As in the main force against the filament is on the stationary end, but also have a smaller motor that is used on the moving end of the tube to help overcome friction in the tube and keep the filament from compressing/stretching in the case of flexable filaments?by Feign - General
I'm guessing, but it looks like the feed tubes are water-cooled, the central tube is the cooling water intake or output, with that tube going off at a 90 degree angle from it being the other water line. (look at the clear tubes attached to the head in the pictures of the machine printing, they appear to be full of water) This thing is absolutely brilliant by the way, I love it and would like toby Feign - General
I wasn't overly excited about this at first, but when I think about it, there seem to be a lot of RepRaps who's build cost is around $700 to $800, by knocking out the dedicated controller board, that takes out about $100 of it... I've heard from people that $500 is kind of a 'magic price' for the middle class to start adopting a new technology. Are there any printers that can use this to get coby Feign - Developers
Heh, I can understand that... 3DPB tends to have the "first to break the news" problem, sometimes they'll post up napkin sketches as news or discussion topics if it means being the first with the scoop. Then again, your rough concepts tend to look more polished than some Kickstarter printers. At least it has been very good for getting discussion started, sometimes that's the hardest part.by Feign - General