I see kits selling for about 600 USD. I sourced all of my parts separately and spent around 670. I don't like to wait for anything so I used local suppliers so shipping times were 2-3 days. Mainly McMaster Carr for the hardware ,Makerfarm for the electronics and. NW Reprap for the printed parts. I priced out everything on Amazon and it came in at about $440.00. The Sintron 3d printer pacby Shank man - Reprappers
This orginally started out following the Haeckel design and was a decent printer except for the irregular layering on all of my prints. I was suspicious of the Z and X-ends from the very beginning but decided go forward with the build anyway. I like the rigid cube construction that allowed for many upgrades and quick repairs when needed. And it is very easy to enclose when ambient temperatureby Shank man - Extruded Aluminum Frames
well said Gordon.My I2 has over 800 print hours on it and still going strong. It produces excellent prints although there was quite a bit of tweaking to get it to that point. 10-12 hour print jobs are no problem.by Shank man - Look what I made!
I'm on my second I2 build and there were a few things on your blog that I was not aware of. Thank you for taking the time to post your instructions. There is a lot of good information there. And I was wondering about that cat too.by Shank man - Reprappers
Use a 234mm jig to get the correct horizontal distance between the vertices. This will ensure everything is square. See pic. I spent about an hour tightening the frame.by Shank man - Reprappers
Hello. A possibility would be that both z axes smooth rods are not perfectly centered on your printerby Shank man - Reprappers
It does looks nice. Its good to see people still building I2'sby Shank man - Look what I made!
Prusa's have a reputation of being a great printer. Mine is a work horse with over 600 print hours on it. It cranks out some fine prints. I'll never get rid of itby Shank man - Reprappers
I'd have to agree that the Prusa I2 is the way to go. It is a bit more labor intensive to build than some other models. I sourced my parts from all over. Looking back I should have bought the Makerfarm kit.by Shank man - Reprappers
hello. Don't give up, that Prusa will give you just as good of a print as any of those box printers. Post your firmware settings so all of the gurus out there can take a look. Have you tried a different roll of filament? Maybe you have a bad batch. Is that extruder fan blowing on your heatbed while your trying to heat it up? I put cardboard on top of my glass to speed up the heating proceby Shank man - Printing
That is a beautiful piece of machinery you have made . If you remove the y belts do the motors spin freely? Maybe there is just too much inertia for those little nema 17 motors to overcome.by Shank man - Reprappers
Check to make sure your ABL Is not enabled in configuration h. if using Marlin . You may need to comment it out.by Shank man - Printing
Hello if you are using slic3r check your start g-code under the printer settings tab. If you see G1 Z5 F5000. Delete this line. I had the same problem with the hot ignoring the limit switch when I tried to print. I hope this solves your problemby Shank man - Printing
I'm glad to help. Just make sure you post some pics when your Prusa I3x is up and printingby Shank man - Reprappers
The Mean Well is better than a PC power supply. Take a look. It is rated at 38amps. It is a dedicated supply that will last for years and will handle any upgrades you might do in the future. Don't scrimp on your power supply its a critical part.by Shank man - Reprappers
I use a Mean Well SE-450-12. From Jameco electronics. No hacking needed. it is 450watts at 12vdc. and about $ 70.00 it serves me well.by Shank man - Reprappers
Sweet. Make you post those plans!by Shank man - Reprappers
Hey. I live in Pontiac and have a set printed in orange pla if you still need them I can part with them if you want to trade some filiment or something. They were some of my first prints but should get you going. I should mention they are metricby Shank man - Reprappers
Nicely done . it looks like your calibrations are right onby Shank man - Look what I made!
It is under the printer settings tab in slic3r In the Start G-code. It must be part of my recent slicer upgrade. I didn't have this problem before.all I know it without this command my H.E. no longer plunges after I hit print . you got me to look in the right placeby Shank man - Printing
Thanks jbernadis. There was some custom default g-code in slic3r that was causing this problem. I didn't put it there G1 Z5 F5000; lift nozzel It seems to have lowered the nozzel instead of lifting. I didn't try changing the 5 to a -5 but just. deleted this line and my diving h.e. problem is gone. Although I am really not sure why but at least printing is fun again.by Shank man - Printing
My solution was to create and import a mirror image of the file and it will print out correctly. I ran into the same problem with my prusa i2.by Shank man - Printing
I feel your pain. I've been battling this same problem for the last 3 weeks . My band-aide so far was to set the offset in Slic3r to +0.2 Sometime it will leave the HE a little too far from the glass and forcing me to adjust on the fly but its better than watching my hot end grind its way into and across the glass. I have a Prusa i2 with the usual RAMPS sourced from various places so I don't thby Shank man - Printing