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Discuss any sort of mechanical stuff here: positioning systems, gears, extruding methods, etc.
Re: Best choices for Extruder and Hot End - 9 years ago
I am guessing this would be close enough: Ultimate Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder - 30mm versionby AndrewBCN - General
Re: Best choices for Extruder and Hot End - 9 years ago
Quotejulianh72 ... but would the more flexible 1.75 mm filament tend to kink or buckle? ... That is exactly the reason why I suggested solution 2) above. Also your present Greg's Wade's is not going to guide the 1.75mm filament exactly into the J-head's entry hole.by AndrewBCN - General
Re: huge problem. I've got smoke. - 9 years ago
Magic smoke means something burned, probably somewhere in the RAMPS/Arduino stack. The most common error is to reverse the polarity of the +12V/GND from the PSU to the RAMPS, and that obviously results in smoke and damage to the RAMPS. Depending on your skills in Electronics DIY, you may want to try to repair the RAMPS board or simply buy a new one. At current prices (~$8) I would suggest buyingby AndrewBCN - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: 6 Endstops? - 9 years ago
If you have properly adjusted min and max endstops and have configured Marlin properly to recognize all of them, there is simply no way to get a print head or heated bed crash. But you can also avoid any head or heated bed crash by using only min endstops and properly configuring Marlin, and properly homing the printer after each power on or reset. This is why I wrote above that only three min eby AndrewBCN - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Best choices for Extruder and Hot End - 9 years ago
Quotejulianh72 ... Can I take it that in order to print with 1.75 mm filament, I can just install a 1.75 mm J-Head or similar onto the Wades Extruder, and change my software settings? Can a 3 mm Wade's Extruder push 1.75 mm filament reliably, without any other modifications? ... Well, a 3mm Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder should possibly be able to push 1.75mm filament, however it cannot be guaraby AndrewBCN - General
Re: Alternative to Bowden extruder - 9 years ago
You can use a Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder with basically any 3D FDM printer, and there are Bowden versions of the Greg's Wade's too. Note that unless you run a PTFE tube from the nozzle right up to the hobbed bolt, a standard Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder won't work particularly well with flexible filament. In the case of both Core XY and linear delta printers, you are better off with a Bowdenby AndrewBCN - CoreXY Machines
Re: 6 Endstops? - 9 years ago
From a practical point of view, three endstops (i.e. one endstop for each of the X, Y and Z axis) is both the minimum and the adequate number of endstops for a Prusa i3. Marlin can make use of both min and max endstops but most people just use min endstops and configure the max value for each axis in the Marlin Configuration.h file.by AndrewBCN - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Mise à jour d'un classique: le Ultimate Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder - 9 years ago
@ skarab Une petite question: "idler ouvert, hotend fixé par une bague... ... passage du filament dans le corps de l'extru..." On retrouve ces trois caractéristiques dans cet extrudeur-ci: Direct drive extruder for Wilson or Prusa i3 rework par Marty Rice, qui a été publié quelques jours avant le L3K. Je trouve la coïncidence un peu forte quand même, tu pourrais expliquer? @ pierrelesek Quotby AndrewBCN - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: Mise à jour d'un classique: le Ultimate Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder - 9 years ago
Quoteskarab le L3K n'est pas un dérivé (y'a pas les sources...), mais un remix de l'extrudeur de la i3 Rework... "dérivé", "variante" ou "remix", cela veut dire la même chose pour un design 3D: on part d'un design existant dont on modifie quelques détails, pour arriver à un autre design. Le L3K, l'extrudeur de la i3 Rework et celui de ch1t0 sont tous les trois dérivés du Greg's Wade's. Par ailleby AndrewBCN - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: Mise à jour d'un classique: le Ultimate Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder - 9 years ago
@ pierrelesek et skarab Hou là là, du calme les gars, d'abord je n'ai rien contre qui que ce soit. Ensuite, si vous avez quelque chose à ajouter ou corriger dans le wiki, vous êtes libres de le faire comme tout le monde, je fais de mon mieux pour documenter mais je n'ai aucune prétention d'être parfait ou de tout savoir. Pour ce qui est de l'extrudeur L3K, je n'ai aucun avis en ce qui concerneby AndrewBCN - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: A classic revisited: the Ultimate Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder - 9 years ago
Thank you Wade, and also thank you for having started the design of this most reliable piece of 3D printing hardware.by AndrewBCN - Developers
Re: Mise à jour d'un classique: le Ultimate Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder - 9 years ago
Si tu as des questions avant d'imprimer, n'hésite pas à les poster dans ce fil. Il y a plusieurs paramètres configurables, en fonction du hardware disponible (par exemple les dimensions du hobbed bolt), et plusieurs tolérances ajustables aussi.by AndrewBCN - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: Pop! Goes the Power Supply - 9 years ago
All your questions about power supplies are answered in (surprise, surprise...) the wiki. Choosing a Power Supply for your RepRapby AndrewBCN - General
Re: My endstops don't work - 9 years ago
Use the M119 command to report endstop status. It helps debug the endstop configuration and check wiring.by AndrewBCN - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: A classic revisited: the Ultimate Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder - 9 years ago
QuoteJamesK Thanks Andrew. I've often looked at the many GW variants and felt completely overwhelmed. Exactly my feeling too, "Which one of a dozen or so different versions should I print for my 3D printer?" is the question! It's difficult to tell the various versions apart, which ones are derived from which, what are the advantages/disadvantages of each version, etc...by AndrewBCN - Developers
Re: Marlin and delta setup question - 9 years ago
You have Johann's fork of Marlin which used to track the main Marlin development tree, but did not incorporate Rich Cattell's autocalibration. Then I believe Johann's code was completely merged into Marlin (I am not 100% sure about that, though). Unfortunately as far as I know Rich Cattell's branch was never merged into mainline Marlin. I started working on merging Rich's fork with Johann's foby AndrewBCN - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: How tight to make the Wades hobbed bolt - 9 years ago
The problem with the i3 Rework version of Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder is that it is a derivative of the original extruder "reworked" using SolidWorks, consequently all the parametric qualities were lost. Unfortunately this is what happens when you don't comply with the GPL and break the source code development chain. See this page for details: Genealogy / Archeology of the Greg's Wade's Gearedby AndrewBCN - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: How tight to make the Wades hobbed bolt - 9 years ago
Quoteo_lampe The worst design error on my wade´s is: The number and thickness of washers between bearing and big gear have to be a perfect match. Otherwise, after tightening the nuts like Andrew described, the hobbed part isn´t in line with the filament guide, causing low feed force. So I decided not to tighten the bolt but leave some air for it to center itself by pressure from the filament-guby AndrewBCN - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Project: Teacup Firmware - 9 years ago
Well done! As usual, thanks for your hard work!by AndrewBCN - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Re: How tight to make the Wades hobbed bolt - 9 years ago
The hobbelt bolt is held in place by a pair of M8 nuts. Just tighten the first M8 nut until there is no more play in the bolt. Now loosen it by 1/10th of a turn. Finally tighten the 2nd M8 nut against the 1st M8 nut so that both are locked in place. The resulting assembly should have no play along the axis of the hobbed bolt, yet it should turn freely. If in doubt, there are a number of videosby AndrewBCN - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: What lubrication for linear bearings and leadscrews? - 9 years ago
I am using Lithium grease (aspect is a white paste), works great and does not react with plastics of printed parts or rubber of belts.by AndrewBCN - Reprappers
Mise à jour d'un classique: le Ultimate Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder - 9 years ago
Pour ceux que cela pourrait intéresser, j'ai posté ces jours-ci une mise à jour de l'extrudeur le plus utilisé dans le monde RepRap, c'est à dire le classique Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder. C'est par ici Ultimate Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder. Voir aussi les remixes. Il est à présent disponible en deux variantes avec plusieurs sous-versions possibles: * La variante Prusa i3 / P3Steel, avecby AndrewBCN - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
A classic revisited: the Ultimate Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder - 9 years ago
First things first: sorry for the flashy name! Next, where to find: Ultimate Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder and remixes. So, what is this about and why am I posting about it in the Developers forum? Well, this is actually just my small contribution at properly "curating" Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder design, by bringing some OpenSCAD source code commonality to the large number of versions scaby AndrewBCN - Developers
Re: Alignment microscope for drilling 3D printer nozzles. - 9 years ago
Well done!by AndrewBCN - Reprappers
Re: 2560 R3 Aatmega 16 firmware - 9 years ago
I was wondering how long it would take for dc42 to post... one hour! But he is right actually. We are in August 2015, and at this point in time it makes little sense to develop yet another new 3D printer controller based on an AVR controller... unless there are specific reasons for doing so, such as backwards compatibility with some proprietary firmware that cannot be ported or something else ofby AndrewBCN - Developers
Re: Adjusting E steps on the fly - 9 years ago
It has an almost immediate effect after the move buffer empties, that usually takes just a small fraction of a second. It is useful to do that when calibrating the E-steps for example, or when you want to vary the amount of material extruded for one reason or another (e.g. change of filament mid-print, etc.).by AndrewBCN - Printing
Re: deuxième fois que mon mosfet q3 crame ;( - 9 years ago
Voir ce post et suivants sur le même thème:by AndrewBCN - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: RAMPS started smoking,,, - 9 years ago
My recommendation is to stick to using the RAMPS 1.4 + Arduino Mega 2560 for all it's worth, just because the "made in China" clones are so cheap, and most problems with this relatively "old" design can be circumvented with a little bit of care. Also you have the choice of three well-established different firmwares (Marlin, Repetier, Teacup) or more, and it's a relatively compact stack which isby AndrewBCN - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Test imprimante 3D DIY Hobbyking / Print-Rite (RepRap) - 9 years ago
QuoteDeuxVis Juste au cas où ça ai échappé à quelqu'un : Photos du vendeur au lieu de celles de son propre montage, plus premier post : sans vouloir jouer aux devinettes j'aurais tendance à douter de l'impartialité de ce compte-rendu... Edit : autant pour moi, après visualisation de la vidéo je pense que c'est plutôt un youtubeur qui veut gagner des vues qu'un vendeur déguisé Je crois que Hobbby AndrewBCN - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: Projet reprap - 9 years ago
Je n'habite pas en France moi-même donc je ne peux pas t'orienter vers les divers sites pour la visserie, mais je pense que tu peux trouver pas mal de choses chez Leroy Merlin, Bricorama ou autres. De toutes façons ici même dans ce forum il y a plusieurs personnes qui pourront t'aider pour ça. Pour ce que est du modèle de Prusa i3, je recommande toujours la P3Steel (voir wiki), qui remplace le cby AndrewBCN - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone