Marlin has a failsafe to prevent extruding at cold temperatures. The threshold for what's cold is hard-coded... to change it, you would have to edit the source code, compile, and re-flash your Arduino board.by frankvdh - New Zealand RepRap User Group
PrintrBot does sell an LCD for the PrintrBoard, if an LCD is what you really want. But my suggestion would be to forget the LCD and instead add a Raspberry Pi running OctoPrint (OctoPi distro), including a WiFi or Ethernet connection. This will allow you to control your printer from any device on your home network.by frankvdh - General
Quotesenior_eduardo Quotefrankvdh The pellets being used in that example were 25Euro for 1.2kg Bologna. There's obviously a HUGE cost advantage in printing pellets. They're not turning pellets into filament for free. I can get PLA for <$5/lbs. I'm not doubting that you *can* get cheap pellets. But the pellets being used in that example were 25Euro for 1.2kg Incidentally, $5/lb is about $11/kby frankvdh - General
The pellets being used in that example were 25Euro for 1.2kg.... not really cheaper than (cheap) PLA filament from China at about US$20/kg. Cheap PLA pellets from China go from about $2/kg in 25kg+ lots up to about $10 per kg in 1kg lots. So not a huge saving, unless you're doing a *lot* of printing.by frankvdh - General
Quotedc42 2. The cables connecting the moving bed to the SSR and mains supply need to be highly flexible, and rated at 10A @ 240VAC or more. The sort of cable used for multimeter test leads is widely available and is one possible choice. Curly mains leads may be another possibility. Actually, the OP never said that the bed moved. And I'd suggest that moving a 700x700 bed would be a extraordinariby frankvdh - General
Quotejaguarking11 now the main question.... Do i need an SSR to control the wood burning stove under my heat bed? It puts out around 20K BTU....... 200C should be within reach... Yes, Solid State Relays are good for wood or coal, but obviously not suitable for liquid (e.g. kerosene, petrol) or gas (propane, oxy-acetylene) heated beds.by frankvdh - General
If you're using auto-leveling, and your bed isn't level, then play/hysteresis in the Z axis can cause shifts in the X and/or Y axes. What happens is that, to compensate for the different heights of the bed at different places, the Z axis needs to move up or down as the head moves in the X or Y axis. Imagine if printing a vertical cylinder... the head should move in a circle at each layer. On oneby frankvdh - Printing
I'm also backing the Diamond hotend. I'm wondering about using two RAMPS boards... RAMPS 1.4 is cheap and debugged, and it would provide some spare stepper, fan, etc channels for further expansion or in case of a hardware failure. Perhaps one Arduino could control two RAMPS boards... one RAMPS plugged into the Arduino, and run a cable to the other RAMPS board, connecting normally unused Arduinby frankvdh - RAMPS Electronics
Is your hotend/nozzle insulated?by frankvdh - RAMPS Electronics
Just one more comment... think reliability. How long can a printer print without a clog or jam or whatever? I have a lot of half-finished pieces of trash, most of which took several hours to produce before something went wrong. Some items have taken 4 or 5 attempts to print (admittedly with cheap cheap filament). This on a 100x100x100 printer. If the probability of clogging etc is linear, thenby frankvdh - General
Love this concept! I'm starting to build... a couple of feedback points: Like many people, I have a 100x100x100mm (Printrbot Simple 1405) 3d printer, and the arms don't quite fit flat into the build volume. I have to tilt them up about 30 degrees to fit them in. If you made the arms just slightly shorter and/or narrower, this design would be much more accessible to many more people. Your box anby frankvdh - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
Try 115200 rather 250000 for speed... I couldn't talk to my Rev D board at 250000, but 115200 works just fine. I don't know whether it was a Linux issue or a PrintrBoard issue though.by frankvdh - General
Whilst on a long car trip, I got to cogitating about alternate 3D printer designs (as you do). It occurred to me that a 3D printer could be simplified mechanically by printing onto a rotating platform. Instead of Cartesian coordinates, it would work in Polar coordinates (angle + distance from centre), plus a Z axis. One way it could work would be for the platform to be driven by a simple DC moby frankvdh - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
AliExpress has Prusa i3 kits from US$333 incl shipping. But it may be cheaper to get parts separately rather than as a kit... you'll be paying GST on the kit price if its over NZ$400 I think, which is US$300 give or take a bit depending on your luck.. I'd guess that you can buy the aluminium extrusions for the Wilson TS in NZ from someone like Ullrich Aluminium, which would save on shipping cosby frankvdh - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Quotewallacoloo As far as processor usage goes, it's not quite that straightforward. In the devel implementation, a single read using the component values found in the ramps-fd thermistor circuit (10 uF capacitor and 4.7k parallel resistance) will take 1 mS - 10 mS, based on the temperature, and is measured using a 1 MHz hardware timer. I think I have the sample rate set to 1 Hz right now from tby frankvdh - Developers