Anyone know how to adjust the web control to add or subtract extruders in use or not currently in use to web control(and PanelDUE)? (prefferably with correct labels ) Seems like the extruders are static and I'm using 3(maybe try kraken later for 4) but web control(and PanelDUE) don't reflect my CFG... I'm using a (heavily?)modified Ormerod cfg setup Thanks,by Epop - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Could be bad settings. Could be a bad controller board. Since its a prefab I would guess the board is bad.by Epop - Printing
I've printed several ABS parts and I underestimated the curl. In a cold room the curl is very dramatic. A 25mm disk will warp to failure before print ends. Where I previously have printed 216mm tall(wide-print) x 70mm wide (tall-print) x 6mm thick 'speaker stands' with less than 10mm of warp total in a heated chamber, cold HDPE(?) bed using unreliable adhesive. Unacceptable, but it was a sby Epop - Controllers
Heya, So basic functionality works okay.The 'factory' 24v PSU works @~23.7v idle... but is unknown to me other than that. For now its 12v ATX@450w My thoughts were, using exsiting electronics to run the110V chamber heater, and the Duet to run a heated bed. So using the Duet to power the bed it would wire up as instructed. I don't know if I want to switch to 24v everything... or not... so Iby Epop - Controllers
First solid print. unchanged settings from 'Now its broken; replaced E0 motor~ didn't skip once. all sizes are within .2mm(~.01") of design Slic3r - .3 mm layer height- est. time 3 someodd hours, actual was ~45 min... its an adapter for 3D Systems origin blocks to E3D V6 hot end. less than 5min support removal using needle nose plyers only... and I just ripped it off (its 2am... i have woby Epop - Controllers
Some sort of spring/tolerance is good IMO the first 3D printer I bought has static direct drive for filament and even their $100 per .75kg spool filament would grind/fail to feed at times.by Epop - General
Depends on where it got hit... a PCB can get cracked wherever and it breaks the connections within the layers of the board. I think if you start checking continuity while the power is off you'll start seeing broken connections... most stepper drivers are lined up so if he really got hit I expect that you'll see broken connections along the line of where the filament reel struck it.by Epop - Controllers
Hm... thats what I was thinking but they start screaming('singing'-at idle) when I turn the amperage up. Which I read was a sign that I had it set too high... as for the NEMA23 I dropped it back down until it stopped 'singing' and adjusted my accel/max speed to accomidate it. It was also an assumption of mine that the torque required was far below what 2 NEMA17 could deliver, the second waby Epop - Controllers
MotionControlProducts M42STH47-1684S (near the bottom) -In parallel the origional stepper driver was TI- DRV8818 fyi and... NEMA23 FL57STH51-3008B-1by Epop - Controllers
FIRMWARE_NAME:RepRapFirmware FIRMWARE_VERSION:1.04f-dc42 ELECTRONICSuet (+ Extension) DATE:2015-04-19 also has intermittent problems loading the webpage ... takes a long time. but it my have something to do with network traffic through that switch... Its only a few MB/sec though... I upped the power to all the steppers a little bit and it picked up the pace. I'm thinking I was just borderlinby Epop - Controllers
I thought if the SD card wasn't being read it would load the firmware defaults instead- would still run but not to my settings. Yeah... I haven't been getting any I/O from any serial monitor/pronterface for awhile now. I had been communicating with it using TCP/IP. hm... And... DC42 saves the day ... AGAIN! somehow just my config.g got hosed. the file was on the SD card @ -zero- kb. wipedby Epop - Controllers
So I decided to get some new hotends instead of setting up to re-use proprietary cheap ones and sat on it a week. ~anyway~ Got the hotend wired up working/extruding... adjusted my steps etc. (just 1 to start) First attempted program with the Duet it was running quick, no skipped steps, no grinding, and nothing was coming out... Soo... I added T0 to activate the tool :B It seemed to startby Epop - Controllers
For double sided tape I highly recommend 3M products. but A LOT of them get weird at high temp/in direct sunlight I would look for something closer to this one... Silicon adhesive transfer tape 91022 OCD Corp~ offers custom cut lengths **not saying the other one wouldn't work. just saying I've had a couple of them get gooey/slimey when they get warm.by Epop - General
If you can read a vernier caliper I would trust it over a cheap digital. vernier can be read to 1/100'th of a mm, same as a $300 digital caliper. and you can turn off 'check for thin walls' or some such in Slic3r to remove the error (don't know about whatever modeling program you use though)by Epop - Printing
Looks like its way too far up to me... if you're too close to the bed it squishes into the bed and is wide/flat (thin in Z)... If you level/ touch off your nozzle to the bed with common paper(usually .002-.003") it should'nt have room to 'wiggle' I'm not familliar with Slic3r (i've run it a few times for comparison but have mostly used Kisslicer and a crappy one that shall not be named) " firby Epop - Printing
It's not advisable to drive 200km/h... or eat fried food every day... but people still do it. just sayin'by Epop - Mechanics
I spent $5k+ on my first because I didn't want to go as far as the $20k option and didn't want to mess with laser cut scrap wood/all thread rod setups... it didn't work out. The cartridges & "out of the" box setups are terrible! -you are locked into using their software(typ.) -(you CAN typ. change layer height & infill density/pattern) -no fan settings-if it droops, it droopsby Epop - General
If your endstop is secure- are you using a screw or belts to move Z? either one could slip if its not secured to the motor shaft.by Epop - General
Might not be exactly what you're going for... but... my printer(that i'm currently hacking to Duet+x4) originally had/has a 400w 110AC chamber heater. 110v input Schaffner line filter all power for the machine runs through it(the people that built it used an aluminum plate for common/ground fyi) 2 leads are connected to that ^ (+110v & -110v) + lead runs through a board with a relay and...by Epop - Developers
Ah... made sense as soon as I read that... I lost track of what I had changed when and if I restarted or not etc... but... for the record... QuoteDC42 Most microswitches have both normally open and normally closed contacts. The outer 2 of the 3 connections are usually the normally closed ones. To use a normally open microswitch, use the M574 command to change the polarity to active high, seeby Epop - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Again, thank you... I didn't see that M word when browsing through the gcode list. *edited out nonsense config.g " ;***end limit switch change M558 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; 0=NO PROBE M574 X1 Y2 Z1 S1 ; set endstop configuration (S1 active high should be normally open switch?) " this gets me there... a couple of questions though so... it isn't actually loading the config.g right after I transfer it frby Epop - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Cartesian. Y is set to 1000mA, (it is also running 2motors). Yep, using Ormerod2- never had a machine that would move z slightly for homing. threw me off. that was fixed when I realised what the homex file was. *homing was also part of the issue but i started a topic in firmware- pins are set goofy since 'E Stops not currently used'?by Epop - Controllers
(disclamer- I'm not much of an electronics guy. If you guys have info of where I can educate myself and stop bugging you, let me know... thx) Using DC42 fork @v1.04f Okay, it took me a min. So... when I... homey- there's no movement but set y=0 homex- it moves as programmed LED on board lights up but motor grinds(hit hard limit) and does not set 0. homez- " M119 reports "Endstops - X: notby Epop - Firmware - mainstream and related support
The com port swtiching is correct. The config.g is running M555 P2. I don't know why pronterface wouldn't work... unless it uses the arduino driver. So, My arduino driver has problems so SM isn't working. which leaves the web. Yep, most CNC machines will not run on lowercase for some reason. Seems like I'm good on connecting/controlling for the moment... next fish to fry is figuring outby Epop - Controllers
(facepalm) ... yeah, it displays correctly, and calibrated... uuuggghh. then... I started over from scratch on Duet... file size was all wrong I noticed as I stared at the directory... I did 'save as' out of habit and got bad files... bossac successfully flashed... bad files... :B So... I got good files this time around and that solved why it stopped coming up as Arduino... Still no seby Epop - Controllers
So... It's all F'ed up now... I've read & re-read the instructions and none of it works... I don't know what I'm doing wrong or if it went wrong and now it's fully manifested. I erased the Duet, reset, used bossa to flash using the main/ZPL/DC42 *.bin, all verified successful(tried them all separately, not flash,flash,flash), reset. now only comes up as a bossac port, and can't do aby Epop - Controllers
- Yes (com4 @115200 baud) -Yes, I had it set to Newline(LF?) as instructed on reprappro. I just tried CR & NL(newline/LF?) and still had no response to M105. -I installed that firmware when I got the board in Feb. **it happend. just got some time to complete the project. I simply haven't updated the firmware. I have tried inputting commands right when plugging the board in as well asby Epop - Controllers
I run a 2200w laser 5days a week. It can cut most wood @ 100-200 in/min. .125" mild steel is at 60 in/min'ish ... I can do it all day long literally... all that needs to be done is putting more material on the table. no tools, no offsets. it just runs... on gas... (mostly nitrogen)by Epop - Laser Cutter Working Group
QuoteJoar107 One of the problems is that it is really hard to drill a long 2mm hole and get a nice surface, I might be better of using some 4 mm ptfe tube and just have 20 mm 2 mm hole? Yep, hard to drill a deep 2mm hole. To get a nice surface, use a reamer. I dont think off the top of my head... that they would make a 2mm hone, but that would make it a nice hole. maybe EDM and use a reamer?by Epop - Mechanics
Hmm... okay. Neither pronterface or arduino serial monitor is doing anything atm. I'm pretty sure I've already gone through all the troubleshooting steps for 'not communicating' on RepRapProby Epop - Controllers