Nophead, how much of a slant do you have there? I'm using Ian's cast parts, and everything more or less worked out, to within a mm or so. My Y belt is 25 mm from the rod at the drive pulley, and 26 mm at the belt clamp. Maybe your corner block is a bit thicker? Or, if your y idler pulleys are larger, then your drive pulleys must be a bit on the small side. Odd that they're too low; maybe addby Wade - Mechanics
Couldn't ping or traceroute to it at the time. Now, a couple days later and it works fine for me. Maybe some sort of DNS problem. I noticed that Rogers, my isp, has been messing with mis-typed DNS names, redirecting you to one of their pages.by Wade - RepRap Host
My dad's 1970 camper has one of those ammonia-water fridges. Made somewhere in Sweden I think, even though the camper is from Saskatchewan. It runs on propane, and is still cooling 30 years down the road. Difficult to get it running, but it does run. Uses a significant amount of propane, and is hard pressed to make more than a few ice cubes a day though. I used a 12 V cooler in western Ausby Wade - General
Can't seem to check out anything in Eclipse, and I get "Connection Interrupted" errors when I try to browse the source via the web. It's entirely possible that it's a problem at my end, so I thought I'd ask and see if it's just me. I've been having trouble for a couple days now. Wadeby Wade - RepRap Host
Can't seem to check out anything in Eclipse, and I get "Connection Interrupted" errors when I try to browse the source via the web. It's entirely possible that it's a problem at my end, so I thought I'd ask and see if it's just me. Edit - sorry, wrong forum. Cross posting this to Software. Does anyone know how to delete a post?by Wade - General
Yeah, I bought some Schmitt triggers to do just that, as the logic is all in one chip, straight from the photodetectors to PS2. I have a Happ trackball from an arcade game that has separate buffer circuits, but I like using it too much to sacrifice it on the Reprap altar. Might be able to wire the quadrature straight to the Arduino too, let the software debounce it. I'll use Zach's magneticby Wade - Controllers
Here's the code. I'm more of a hack than a real programmer, so instead of doing this the right way with defines and whatnot, I just changed the temperature code in the library file. For the single arduino snap firmware ver 1.3, change this library file in your arduino dir: /home/wade/arduino-0011/hardware/libraries/ThermoplastExtruder/ThermoplastExtruder.cpp This is the function I changed -by Wade - Controllers
I suppose this should go on the wiki somewhere. I asked Zach about it, and after many hints I figured out a cheap and dirty way to make it work: I've only been able to get the Snap code working so far, so I just edited the Snap firmware library and cut and pasted Zach's thermocouple code from the Gcode firmware. When I get my other computer going I'll attach the edit, hang on... It was reallyby Wade - Controllers
Erik, I took it that one step further and slapped a PS2 mouse encoder wheel on the 2nd shaft of my GM3, used polymorph plastic to stick on the mouse detector circuit board, and wired it to a second Arduino that I had kicking around. Check out the photo. So, I get some nice output from that PS2 library as I spin up my extruder, but there's a few issues. Number one is that I now have to figureby Wade - Controllers
Yeah, will try that Ian, thanks. I'm also getting lockups while using the stepper exerciser though; I think it might be something beyond just comm pauses. Wadeby Wade - RepRap Host
Heh, good point Forrest! I don't have regular access to a workshop, so I sometimes forget what can be done just around the house. Not sure how I'd cut the hollow end out without a vise and a drill press, but I can probably work something out, or just convert it to a direct drive. I'm back to building in the kitchen, so I have to keep my metalworking to a minimum. Can't wait to move to a pby Wade - Mechanics
So, finally got my Darwin extruding! Here's the first widebar.stl outline test: As you can see, it's pretty lumpy even in the straight sections, disregarding the pauses at the corners, which I hear is a software issue that might be fixed already. I can hear the GM3 speeding up and slowing down with every revolution, and looking closely I can see the two halves of the extruder open and close slby Wade - Mechanics
Yeah, calibration doesn't work for me either, but I just did a couple test moves of around 100 mm, measured with my caliper, and adjusted the XAxisScale (and Y and Z) appropriately. After a few trials I ended up with 8.0110 steps/mm, but thinking about it, I realized that (400 steps/rev) / (20 teeth/rev * 2.5 mm/tooth) = 8 exactly, so I just used that, and it seems to be the most accurate afteby Wade - RepRap Host
Ian and Andy; I had the same problem with Arduino object files, figured it out the hard way too. And, as usual, I found a note in the documentation about it after I'd been denting the wall with my cranium all day. It's mentioned here: I came across that while bugging Zach for hints on getting the Thermocouple to work; thanks Zach, btw! I ran into the same problem as Andy, but since the hby Wade - RepRap Host
Actually, regarding the SAE version, Sebastien mentioned above that 5/16" is practically the same as 8mm. And as all the captive nut and bolts holes have a bit of play in them, the build documentation mentions you can substitute SAE for metric pretty much everywhere. No one's bothered to work out the exact sizes, but it should be no problem if you buy plenty of nuts and bolts. It'd be nice toby Wade - Mechanics
Scary. It works now, but why, I'm not exactly sure. Your mileage may vary, as I don't claim to know what I'm doing here. Just to recap, I'm running Ubuntu Hardy, fresh install with all the updates, Reprap host software 0.9 in /usr/lib/reprap. Here's what I did: Installed all the development tools as per , including Netbeans. Noticed that I now have a new JVM installed now, at: /usr/lib/jvby Wade - RepRap Host
I want to get recycling working at a local level. Having seen piles of plastic garbage all over the world, primarily because there's no market value for used plastics in most places, I think it would be great to seed a few third world countries with a reprap that could build useful stuff (including more repraps) out of recycled plastic. Might make a dent in the mountain of trash we're drowningby Wade - General
Thanks for the info guys! I'm having the exact same error as Andy D, so I just added my details to his post here: Will find some other computers to test with in case its a video card issue, but I figured I needed to get better at deciphering Java error codes first. Edit: Forrest, your posts always make me smile. I found your old posts about your opinion of Java while searching for solutionsby Wade - RepRap Host
So, my Darwin is ready to go, but I need to be able to run a version of the host software that will talk to the thermocouple. I've been beating my head against the wall trying to get Java running properly for several weeks now, but it's just not working. Definitely user error, but it makes me wonder about the idea of cross platform compatibility. So, back to school. I used to code in C and asby Wade - RepRap Host
Hey, I've got the same error on Ubuntu Hardy running 0.9 of the Reprap host software. 0.8.3 runs absolutely perfectly as long as I run it as root, but it won't work with my thermocouple. Oops. I did the complete developer install, minus loading the latest software out of Subclipse/Subversion, as I get a "Unable to load default SVN client." error. Perhaps if I get that sorted and run the mythiby Wade - RepRap Host
Hm, I installed the entire developer chain, Eclipse, Subclipse and Netbeans, thinking I might be missing some gui icons somewhere. Now neither version of the host software will run - maybe that means I'm on the right track? Will keep hacking away until I discover something useful. I think nuking my linux install might be a good place to start. Oh, and Ian, Reece mentioned in another threadby Wade - RepRap Host
So, I'm at the point where I'm almost ready to extrude (heh, that sounds rude), and I'm fighting my way up through software issues, sorting through many versions of code trying to get something working. A thought occured to me - I really like the concept of the infill patterns, and I think they could be used to strengthen the finished product. Since we're making all the fancy internal patterns,by Wade - RepRap Host
Ian, I'm running Ubuntu, both the live Reprap DVD version, and a regular installation on my laptop, and I'm getting that exact same error. I don't know what it means, but I did find that if I run the reprap-host-0.8.3 version, as opposed to the latest 0.9 version, I don't get that error. Why, I couldn't tell you. Of course, I'm still getting other errors, right now it's a RXTX exception on tby Wade - RepRap Host
Hey Reece, I just booted the latest liveCD, version 0.7, and I'm getting com errors when I start, despite having the path set correctly to /dev/ttyUSB0. Dmesg tells me: [ 306.068014] usb 4-1: FTDI USB Serial Device converter now attached to ttyUSB0 which is what works in my regular Ubuntu install and in the 0.6 CD, so I think that's all good. I am getting a java error java.lang.UnsatisfiedLinby Wade - RepRap Host
Hey, it's coming along nicely. More or less finished now, just waiting for some insulated nichrome wire and some plastic to extrude. I used cast plastic parts from Bits from Bytes, they're pretty good. I had some issues with the pulleys as couplers, couldn't get enough grip from the little set screws, so I made my own coupling out of steel. The build went a lot faster than I thought, really oby Wade - Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
Demented, still having trouble with that? Try making the output wires from the stepper driver boards as short as possible (ie, move the boards closer to the motors), and make sure you don't have any control wires running close to the stepper motor wires. The chopped output of the stepper drivers is essentially a noisy AC signal; running those wires near your control wires can create an ad-hoc tby Wade - Mechanics
Yeah, Reece, I originally built my Z axis as you described, as I thought that was how it should go. I drilled the extra holes on principle, and you need them anyway to set the bed corner bolts correctly. Follow the directions carefully there - I didn't, and had to re-do that part of the build to get my corner brackets on straight. But, if you look at the design carefully, locking the tops of tby Wade - Mechanics
Yes, I filed flats on the 8mm rods, and the Kelling motors already have flats on them. I also put some super glue in there, but I haven't yet tested that just yet, I've been busy working on my extruder. Just in case, I built a coupler out of a thick 1/4" threaded coupler like Steve's; I drilled and tapped one end to an 8mm thread, and drilled the other side to 1/4" and put a 5 mm grub screw in.by Wade - Mechanics
Continuing this conversation with myself in the hopes that someone else might find it useful, I'm now back to looking for a suitable coupling for the 1/4" Z motor drive shaft to the 8mm threaded Z drive rod. Using the cast pulley as a coupler is not working well, I've had it come loose twice already just during Z axis testing, and I think my Z axis is relatively smooth. My next plan is to findby Wade - Mechanics
Zzorn, the Arduino stepper driver boards I'm using have a pot to adjust the current; I think the idea is to turn it down to the minimum amount of current you need to run your steppers. My x axis only needed 0.3 A to run very nicely, but the other axis will need more current. At 0.3 A nothing really heats up, but at 1.5 A things do start to warm up. Also, if you've got one motor that's always gby Wade - Controllers