Hmm, Alright I guess Marlin is not a requirement. The only reason I said a good LED is because the only other one I had before couldn't actually output the correct volts even when the potentiometer was maxed.by DaGameFace - General
Language.h UltraLCD.h UltraLCD.cpp Those are the three parts of marlin that configure the LCD menu. As for the keyboard input, I have seen a series of Cherry Mx keys be used to do things such as preheat, home, and jog the printer but can not seem to find the original thread.by DaGameFace - Reprappers
So, due to makerbot being, well, makerbot.. I am ditching their platform altogether and turning the printer into a reprap. Think I want a better board than arduino/ramps for the 2x, but only have experience with it and Rambo. I've heard great things about smoothie but really don't know what to buy. Would like it to run marlin though. Am not going to reuse the power brick either, and want a fairlyby DaGameFace - General
Won't be able to test it for a few hours, but think I successfully inverted the axis by changing their max positions to negative values.by DaGameFace - General
I read into filament making, and from what I remember people where having the best results when they had a very exact rpm on the winding machine and were pulling the filament through water. Faster rpm= thinner filament, slow= thicker. Though you probably already know and do this.. I suppose a tube could work but how is it leaving the second tube any different from leaving the primary extruder? Wby DaGameFace - Mechanics
Not that I know how to do this, but, Do you know what you want? It would be helpful if you already have a concept design for your new layout.by DaGameFace - Reprappers
moral; if you are going to upgrade to lead screws, dont buy the cheapest things you can find.by DaGameFace - General
What are your steps per mm like for your extruder? I had ran mine with no microstepping for a bit and saw damn close to the same thing, though mine were vertical lines.by DaGameFace - Printing
The one in the picture is my preferred hot end of choice, its the E3D v6, all metal so I can print at high temps if I need to use something like nylon. (For reference, some hot ends have a plastic call PTFE inside that makes it have less friction than metal to avoid jams. But this limits your max temp to really only using PLA) You can buy the real deal name brand E3D, which I would suggest, butby DaGameFace - Printing
Yeah, in the process of inverting the directions, not used to repetier firmware, How does one do that? (the connectors for the steppers can't be reversed) The endstops are behaving as they should according to m119, they are high when they should be high and low when they should be low.by DaGameFace - General
What kind of PSU? my theory is maybe your extruder is getting less voltage when trying to print than when just sending it commands due to the PSU being under load. Could also try to take away some microstepping and see how that effects things.by DaGameFace - Prusa i3 and variants
Most likely you have the wrong LCD selected in your firmware as mentioned before. If it was already working, then stopped for apparently no reason, you may have fried your 5v regulator.by DaGameFace - Prusa i3 and variants
Yup! looks like you found the problem yourself. Now there are two causes to the same issue, if it does resurface: 1. The stepper motor itself can be skipping steps. If so, you will hear an audible click when this happens. 2. The hobbed bolt can be stripping on the filament. You will see bits of plastic ground up by the extruder. Fixes: 1. Increase voltage through stepper driver, maybe loosen tensby DaGameFace - Printing
So, I was able to verify that I had a V1, So i found its manual and firmware from seemecnc.com. Flashed the firmware and followed the manual exactly. When sent a G28 command, two towers move down about 1cm and stop while the third tower moves upward ~1cm. If sent the G28 code a second time, it will do nothing. One time when I had a cut connection on my x endstop for my prusa I saw the x carriageby DaGameFace - General
HA! nice photoshops, no way thats fdm, worth a laugh though.. on a serious note, DAMN, its like the layers dont even exist. Nice machine and nice tuningby DaGameFace - General
8mm rod? yeah that shouldn't be nearly as bad as I thought, looked like 5mm at a glance. okay, my theory behind the cylinder was that a constant change in direction wouldn't produce the ugliness that a sudden change would like the corners in the cube if it were indeed play in the rods and belts.by DaGameFace - Printing
Quoten8bot I'm finishing up a 4 day print through a e3d v6 (0.4 mm nozzle) with PLA. I print for weeks straight with PLA, never a problem. Um, can i see some of the finished prints? cuz damn, that print time..by DaGameFace - General
well, there is definitely a slicer capable, there is full color sandstone after all, I'm sure it could be adapted. Or rather, possibly, slic3r adapted to mimic itby DaGameFace - Mechanics
Quoteanimoose I agree on 1m being rather long, though if the cable folds over neatly, it should be sufficient. I'd also like to see a way of joining two cables at right angles. I am imagining it in a CoreXY design, where you would have one cable like this running along the Y axis from the controller to where the X axis is attached, and another along the X axis to the print head. No, that is wayby DaGameFace - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist You've apparently never used linear guides. There's absolutely no play in those bearings. The rail is attached to a piece of 2020 or tubing which makes it even stiffer than it normally is. The X axis is very rigid and uses a single relatively short belt that appears to be 9 mm wide. It is the last place I'd expect to see a problem in this build. The Y axis uses a shaby DaGameFace - Printing
to be clear, there is no real danger of melting from EM crosstalk, the printer only sees the garbled signal caused by it and this can read as a very high or very low temp. That is what triggers the runaway. I was not clear in my first postby DaGameFace - Printing
im with flyod! in the video, when your printer thinks its z axis is at 5 its at least 50mm above the table. This would explain your ridiculously high speed and large probing motion. Find a tutorial on how to configure steps/mmby DaGameFace - Reprappers
within the same print? I know people will have a normal print head then a second one, with something weird like a chocolate extruder, and that is easy enough. Just keep two profiles in your preferred slicer.by DaGameFace - General
So, to be clear, a "normal" homing routine has a perfect z=0 obtained through a G28 command? but when you use G29, the auto leveling probe, it is off by ~2mm? From there, I assumed that the G28, used your mechanical endstops (which you may not have on second thought) and therefore the ~2mm z error must come from the probe. That is, assuming that the printer thinks its first layer is on z-0 (or .by DaGameFace - General
The more I look at this the more I think that it has to be wobble in the mechanics. Not the frame, that printer looks extremely well built. But, you have so many belts, that I there is bound to be lash in them. Not to mention your x axis, looks like it would be likely to have a tiny bit more give than traditional smooth rails and bearings. This would explain why one of the faces is fine, it is jby DaGameFace - Printing
make sure your thermistor cables dont run too close to high voltage power cables. This can cause EM cross talk, even if for only a couple milliseconds, your printer wont risk melting itself, and immediately goes into thermal runaway.by DaGameFace - Printing
Your endstop set correctly? your firmware configured correctly? was the model definitely centered in the slicer? Try telling it to go to 100, 100 and see if that is center. Also check 0,100 and 100, 0. This should highlight the problem anyway.by DaGameFace - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist my 3D mouse I didn't know that i needed one until now..by DaGameFace - General
hmm, wait. Are you sure that you have your probe configured correctly? your z offset for the probe being off by a bit would cause exactly this problemby DaGameFace - General
open scad is rough unless you are both good with code and already know the basics of a CAD program. I just took a poll here on CAD softwares. Try OnShape, heard good things, its free and in browser. I don't have the files you need (well I kinda do, but they are tuned to how my printer worked at the time and have improvements that need to be made), and wouldn't necessarily suggest a wade until afby DaGameFace - Prusa i3 and variants