Its possible you accidentally shifted the frame out of square. Measure the distances from the front left of the Y to the Z X frame the from the back of the Y to the Z X frame, be as accurate as possible then do the same for the other side. Digital calipers that lock make it really easy to check this as you can measure say the front left, then lock the calipers then check the front right.by scottybfg - Printing
are you using all 5 motor points on the ramps. If not you could plug the extruder into the 5th slot and modify the pins.h so that E2 becomes E1 on the ramps. You haves tested the motor and motor controller and know they are good so it might just be that 4th motor point thats bad on the rampsby scottybfg - Mechanics
Did you get the error after the m302 or did the motor not respond? If the motor didnt respond then it might be the control board. One last thing you could try and I never like suggesting this because its there for safety is comment out that section in the firmware //#define PREVENT_LENGTHY_EXTRUDE //#define EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH 100 Sounds like a good build, I know what you mean about being soby scottybfg - Mechanics
QuoteBama3d Well pardon me, but the trailer full of junk turning off people to 3d printing kind of through me off. I would also like to clarify my response. When someone says they are going to educate as meany people as possible about 3D printers by using cheap desktop printers it makes me think they dont know as much about the technology to teach it. As fun as desktop printer are, people seamby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
If you are self funded I would say start small, don't build all 22 at once. (In fact i dont think you need that meany unless you wanted one per student in a class) I would start with a cartesian (like an i3), Delta (kossel) and a coryXY. then add some of the odd design concepts like the Morgan, Simpson and a Tantillus (I really like this one as its so close to the original rep-rap concept) Theby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm not saying there is anything wrong with the $500 printers as long as you understand their limitations and not expecting micron accuracy (Sadly most people do). What im getting at is that with $16K ($11K for the printers and say $5K for the trailer) you could do something really impressive and inspire the kids to get into STEM subjects (science, technology, engineering and mathematics). I thiby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
I don't think you have thought this idea through. I think you will find most schools / collages have access to at least one 3d printer. Driving around with a trailer of cheap junk will only further increase the idea that 3d printing was developed on the kitchen counter and is only good for printing trinkets. Why dont you get in touch with some of the big hitters in the industry and see if you cby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
I would say put the SD card into your computer. There you should find a PDF with instructions and software to use (most likely pronterface). There might even be some .STL files or gcode files of parts to print and If you are lucky you will also a a copy of the firmware.by scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Hmmm this one has me stumped. Has this extruder worked in the past? One more thing you could try is remove all filament from the extruder then send the following code when the hotend is cold M302 P1 This will disable the cold extrusion checking, then see if it runs (As in don't heat up the hotend). Im hoping this will bypass the extrution length check and you can see if its a hardware issueby scottybfg - Mechanics
hmmm this is an odd one. One thing you could try is sending the following g-code before you try and extrude. This will zero the extrusion length G92 E0by scottybfg - Mechanics
What are you doing when you get the errorby scottybfg - Mechanics
Quoteo_lampe That's not entirely true, because it depends on nozzle size too. With a Volcano hotend and 0.8mm nozzle I could print 0.2 walls and 0.6 infill Yeah I thought there had to be something more to it, being a function of the nozzle size makes sense, I never really played around with it muchby scottybfg - General
Sorry i must not have been clear, Yes currently you only have 100mm this will stop anything over that (seams silly with a 200mm bed) Being a square bed you can set it to 280mm diagonal distance (well 282.84mm would be the diagonal if you want exact)by scottybfg - Mechanics
Only thing i can see is that your #define EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH 100 this will mean that the longest line you can print is 100mm, I find this small because most use a print area of 200mm x 200mm. Most have it set to something like below or you could use some trigonometry and determine the longest line you could print on your bed and set it to that (a²+b²=c²) #define EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH (X_MAX_LENby scottybfg - Mechanics
Yes, Slic3r has what they call microlayering, it combines infill every "nth" layer. So you could have your layer height set to 0.1mm then set microlayering to 2 layers to get infill at 0.2mm. This setting can be temperamental and only likes to work when you have a small layer height, anything over 0.2 and it dose not like to work.by scottybfg - General
No, your pulleys can be slipping on the motor shaft, the stepper current could be too low, feedrate too high. there are a number of issues that cause skipping steps software would be last on the listby scottybfg - General Mendel Topics
Yes that would be the steps/mm for that setup. Lead is equal to pitch when there is only one helical screw wrapped around the rod. Lead screws us multiple helical screws warped around the rod called starts. To determine the lead (mm per full rotation of the rod) you multiply the pitch by the number of starts. So with a lead of 4 and a pitch of 2 you would have 2 starts. Look at the end of the leaby scottybfg - Mechanics
What country are you in? Id happy print you some parts but being in Australia international postage is not cheap. By saying what country you are in I'm sure you will find someone here to print some parts for you, even a basic set to get you goingby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
How did you go with the design, I never did get around to CADing up a design (work got crazy) but if you still need ideas I'm happy to give it a go. Also MechaBits has a post in the general about turning his printer into a rail gun, If you look at one of the last pics he posts it shows a pulley to shaft couple design that you might find useful QuoteMechaBits Not much Black left now, Final partsby scottybfg - General
Few things, first you should be using the lead and not the pitch to calculate the steps/mm for a leadscrew Second, you are still using an old method to "calibrate" your Cartesian printers, you should stick to the calculated steps/mm adding an arbitrary scale based off a 100mm move will get you accurate distances only for 100mm and all other distances will be off. You have identified that your bby scottybfg - Mechanics
You will need to know the starts as well and multiply the pitch to get the lead And yes starts are loosely related to torqueby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
With lead screws it all depends on the number of starts you have. A start is a parallel thread that helps with stability but also means the feedrate needs to be increased. So to get the pitch for the feedrate calculate you need to multiply the thread pitch by the number of starts (2,3 or 4). most leadscrews for 3d printing I've seen have been 2 or 4 but if you are unsure go back to the place youby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Why are you still printing and leaving it UNATTENDED????? Ok so the motors are 1.8° all you need now is to count the number of teeth on the pulley and calculate your steps per mm ( Im just going to assume the belt is GT2 so pitch 2mm). and update that value in the firmware. Right so thats step one of commissioning your printer done then you can move onto the E steps. By the looks of these newby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes all the stepper motors should be the same. Its not a big issue if you cant find a label, just calculate the steps for 1.8° and if you find your moments are half of what they should be then you have 0.9° motors. The important thing is the teeth on the pulley, mart one tooth with a marker then rotate the motor by hand counting the pulley teeth till you get back to the mark. They will most likelby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Is there a sticker on the motor? if so post a picture. Chances are they will be 1.8° steps per rev. As for the teeth on the pulley, have you tried counting them?????by scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
In one of your meany other forum posts you were given good information on how to calculate your E steps, It looks like you have not done this. By the sounds of your comments it looks like you have just assembled the printer and expected it to print. If you wanted this you should have brought a plug and play printer and not a DIY kit. Follow this commissioning guide to help setup your printer fby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteggherbaz Now with a caliper in hand home all your axis and then with the jog functions of your slicer move one at a time each axis 100mm and measure with the caliper the actual value (for the extruder just mark the filament from the inlet to the 100mm mark and extrude 100mm) Then use a simple rule of 3 to get the correct step value (100 X current step / actual value = new step value). Put thby scottybfg - Prusa i3 and variants
I just chose PP because i know it comes in filament form and people have printed with it. Have a search and see if you can find any of the others as filament. The EPDM, buy the material sheet and cut your own gaskets, should be easy to do as i imagine this being between the plates, no internal geometry. Also you will get a better seal then with printed due to air gaps in the print. The researby scottybfg - Reprappers
Quotespmp According to the chart LDPE, HDPE, PMP, FEP, TFE, PFA, ECTFE, ETFE, Rigid PVC, PSF, PS, FLPE, RESMER, and PVDF are resistant at 20 ̊. FEP, TFE, ECTFE, ETFE, PSF and PVDF are resistant at 60 ̊. But how does this chart relate to filament products that we can buy! ! I would do a test with polypropylene at 30% its fine and at 60% it shows little to no damage after 30 days. I dont think aby scottybfg - Reprappers
Well it all depends on the Concentration and temperature, A quick goolge will lead you to a chemical comparability chart (Like this one ), these charts are used in the chemical manufacturing industry to determine what material instruments and valves should be made from and what seals to use. Polypropylene would be a good choice, as for the seals you might be better getting a sheet of EPDM andby scottybfg - Reprappers