A long time ago someone told me that after you snug a nut or a bolt of any size, if you tighten it any more than a 1/4 turn then it is too tight. (mind you sung on a head bolt is a good pull while sung on a 1mm nut and bolt is a tiny twist.) Now their a circumstance where you have special material (case hardened nuts and bolts ect...) where you can exceed this limit. I have lived with this ruleby Roberts_Clif - General
Upload your code I will take a look for you!by Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
This is My Marlin 1.1.5 Code for Linear/Bilinear Bed Leveling #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN #define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10 // X offset: -left +right #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 25 // Y offset: -front +behind #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.5 // Z offset: -below +above // X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between prby Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
No Power supply should be good with 23.8 volts. Have been trying not to say this, Thou here goes My 24V volt 3D Printer was having problems and it had to do with the noise the controller was putting out. Injecting the signals into the adjacent LCD/SD wires causing similar effects. You are may not be seeing a true THERMAL RUNAWAY it may be just noise. Could you disconnect the LCD place it as farby Roberts_Clif - General
Have you measured the Voltage on the controller to see if you actually have 24v when heating hot-ends and bed at the same time. If not around 24v you may have to get larger silicone power wires.by Roberts_Clif - General
You manually lower the nozzle to a piece of paper, click the menu button it goes to the next location. you lower the nozzle to the piece of paper ect... Until you reach the end of the bed. usually with this type of bed leveling you only use a few points three, four or five. I included a video in the above post.by Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
Killing old settings is annoying, but normally when updating firmware users are aware that their old settings may not roll over, and they should Initialize EEProm. This is one reason that they Placed the Initialize EEProm on the menu.by Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
* - MESH_BED_LEVELING * Probe a grid manually * The result is a mesh, suitable for large or uneven beds. (See BILINEAR.) * For machines without a probe, Mesh Bed Leveling provides a method to perform * leveling in steps so you can manually adjust the Z height at each grid-point. * With an LCD controller the process is guided step-by-step. I prefer #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINby Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
Let see If this will help Did you do a M502 and a M500 to save the new Configuration Or In Marlin 1.1.5 Click menu Click Control Click Initialize EEProm This clears settings out and loads the new settingsby Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
Is it some how possible that the Stepper motor is plugged in backwards. Sound to me like My first 3D Printer when the extruder wiring was wrong. Or 2nd suggestion maybe it is running in reverse direction when you extrude it retracts, this happen to me and is more common.by Roberts_Clif - Reprappers
PID ("proportional-integral-derivative control algorithm") needs to have a P, I and D value defined to control the nozzle temperature. For Marlin, these values indicate the counts of the soft-PWM power control (0 to PID_MAX). PID is the Boring part of a Marlin firmware programing algorithm that help prevent a 3D Printer Meltdown or even causing a Fire. Thermal runaway can occur if your fan isby Roberts_Clif - General
Thermal runaway can occur when the wrong PID setting are used. Thermal runaway can occur with loose wiring. Check you wiring to the Heater and Bed, Some hotbed with give thermal runaway if you use PID settings. What are your PID numbers from the LCD. What kind of 3D Printer do you have.by Roberts_Clif - General
M25 Requires #define SDSUPPORT enabled Something here is wrong. My pause and resume work. and has worked in every Marlin Firmware I have used. However I wish pause worked differently, as it pauses on the print. It would be better if pause sent nozzle off the print to location 0,0,current Z position. Because by the time you push all the buttons to get to move x or y axis the nozzle has melted toby Roberts_Clif - General
Look here Marlin V1 for Diamond HotEnd this might give you some ideal what to do next. Will continue to look for a newer version of Marlin Found Here and Here Hope something here works for you!!! Leave the information here when you get it working please.by Roberts_Clif - General
The forum will still be here, along with the many learned individuals to help.by Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
Extruder Vergewissern Sie sich, dass die Extruderschritte pro mm in der Firmware korrekt sind, damit Ihr Drucker die richtige Menge an Faden extrudiert. Da Titan ein bekanntes Getriebeverhältnis und ein konsequent bearbeitetes Antriebsrad verwendet, können wir einen ziemlich genauen Schritt / mm-Sollwert anbieten. Schritte pro Einheit (Extruder) = Motorschritte * Micro-Stepping * Getriebeübersetby Roberts_Clif - General
The thermisters have to be unplugged before you can measure their resistance room temp 25C should be about 100K ohms. What is the reading on your LCD for your hot-ends, if this temperature is below 15C the heater will never turn on. Unless you heat to above 15C. You can measure the voltage however with a mintemp error the voltage will always be zero. With the power turned off you should also beby Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
It is relativity simple your laptop operating system corrupted the Arduino USB drivers, or a spike kill the laptop USB connector. Try to load a USB Flash Drive. If this works then the problem lies in the Arduino driver. uninstall then reinstall the Arduino IDE or drivers.by Roberts_Clif - Reprappers
Quoteobewan In firmware, enable option to only check endstops while 'homing' #define ENDSTOPS_ONLY_FOR_HOMING Found it does not exist in any Marlin 1.1.X I have. Name changed to #define ENDSTOPS_ALWAYS_ON_DEFAULTby Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
This was just one of many sites that sale the T8x2 Lead Screw Threaded Rod T8-2 Trapezoidal, they even include Backlash nuts. I have a 3D Printer similar to that you have described, and have little not no problems other the stock 1.25mm all thread originals lead-screws. Do not get me wrong they worked, they were straight they were just squeaky bolts and created more noise pollution than were worby Roberts_Clif - Reprappers
Quoteerniehatt Yes using the same lead screw.. I have just got it printing ok so far, No jumping as yet. The original acceleration was 250, that seemed to make it jump 16mm, changed as suggested it jumped almost 50mm, so I increased it to 300 now it works. I think I will leave it at that for the time being, its a bit squeaky while laying the out lines, I can live with that. Thanks for the help.by Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
This is something I bought for myself, comes in 150, 200, 250, 300 and 400mm lengths. May be a replacement for what you are looking.by Roberts_Clif - Reprappers
We should start from scratch. What lead screw are you using for your Y-axis. is it the same as your Z-Axis lead screws. What were your number before you changed to the Y Leadscrew. Show your numbers for the following Lines #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { , , , } #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { , , ,} #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { , , , } #define DEFAULT_ACCELERATIONby Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
He has a room size air purifier with HEPA/Charcoal filtration, his filter is called Active Charcoal. Charcoal/Carbon: The carbon air filters still remove dust, pollen and other contaminants from the air, because charcoal is porous, the filter has a very high capacity for trapping noxious gases. Carbon filters come in many forms: impregnated foam material, powder and cloth, and solid carbon. Theby Roberts_Clif - General
I had a Green SN04-N NPN NO 8-24volts it worked perfectly for the 6 months that I used it. Though I wanted some thing that did not hang 65mm behind the nozzle. So decided to look around and found these low profiles Flat Inductive Proximity Sensors by Omron TL-W3Mc2. Had to invert the End_stop switch but other wise it sits within 25mm of the nozzle, could be closer though did not see why. workinby Roberts_Clif - General
QuoteDust "IR Temperature gun" are crap They cannot measure reflective or metallic surfaces (and most of them the "laser" pointer is nothing like where its looking) get a thermocouple eg I have a ADM02 with a temperature Probe. What they called a temperature Probe anyway is a thermister hanging an a pair of stiff wires.by Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
Quoteobewan Sounds like you motor is struggling with the extra speed. So, basically you have gone from ~82 steps/mm up to now 400 steps/mm , you will have to also lower the max speed so you are not trying to drive the motor too fast (ie the buzzing noise you here) X Y Z E #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 300by Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
I have had this problem myself just recently. It appear that they may be scrimping on the insulating material to save costs. Was planing to buy some 3mm standoffs or button head screws and High temp Epoxy, Adhesive or Putty and glue the thermisters into the standoffs. They have many different types ranging to 350C to 1000C used mainly for exhaust repair and high temp gaskets. short time solutiby Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteerniehatt Hi Guys, sorry for jumping in on another's thread, but it is appropriate for my problem. I have just changed over my Y axis from belt drive to lead thread, and am having problems. I entered the 400 as did Bee69, but I am getting no movement, I can hear the motor trying to turn but no movement, I also changed the motor from nema17 to 14, maybe this is the problem, I don't know. I chby Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
3950 Thermistors are generally 100K @ 25C, Heat water to 25C measure the Resistance. Could be a bad or maybe it is the defective thermister. Item:NTC Thermistor Model:B2-100-3950-1 R @ 25C: K 100K-1% B25/50:K 3950-1%by Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin