Show all posts by user

Re: Shifted print, worse during first layers - 10 years ago

I was quite sure that my pulley is well fixed, but once you say it is hard to detect I am going to make the line test. If that is not the problem - is there any more likely cause, from looking at the pictures? And how to change settings in the firmware? Is there an instruction for that anywhere?

by Anna & Karl - Printing

Shifted print, worse during first layers - 10 years ago

I am experiencing some shifting in the x axis. After experimenting with higher voltage on the driver (adjusting to 0.7V instead of 0.5V), printing over USB and SD, trying different slicers/hosts and adjusting the belt tension, the results still look largely the same: the raft is badly out of shape and the first layers are rather horrible. The higher layers look better, but are still leaning to on

by Anna & Karl - Printing

Re: Fan does opposite of what it's told - 10 years ago

Hmm, I started to have that suspicion as well - thank you for confirming it! So changing the plug is all that is needed after all. That is great, no need to change the G-code after all and no more jamming of the heatbreak.

by Anna & Karl - Printing

Re: Fan does opposite of what it's told - 10 years ago

Okay, I can answer my own question: the M106 needed to go before the M109.

by Anna & Karl - Printing

Fan does opposite of what it's told - 10 years ago

We are having problems with our fan. Using a E3D V6 hotend we want the fan to work at all times when the hotend is on. The fan can be activated and deactivated normally in the Repetier host, but when trying to print from Cura or over SD card, it seems to go off when it should go on and on when it should go off. I wasn't lucky with any of the settings in Repetier or Cura, as they did not activate

by Anna & Karl - Printing

Re: SAV MKl - big fail - 10 years ago

Update: I was rather intrigued now and went and checked my solderings with the multimeter - all connections are okay. Then I decided to try and connect the printer with the USB again - and it works. Everything is wonderful. Why it didn't connect yesterday will remain a mystery. We are ready for the next round of problems!

by Anna & Karl - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: SAV MKl - big fail - 10 years ago

Wow, this sounds great and scary at the same time. Is there a chance that my soldering of all 5 lines somehow "confuses" the board? I have checked with a magnifier and all soldered parts have contact, so I was rather disappointed that it didn't work. I guess I also should try and check with the multimeter if electricity passes. I must say I am a little reluctant to solder the board again - but m

by Anna & Karl - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: SAV MKl - big fail - 10 years ago

No, it is the SAV MKI. I guess I could manage with arduino - but would like to stay with the SAV and to find out if we somehow could get away without having to order a brand new board. After all, the rest of the board is still working fine.

by Anna & Karl - Prusa i3 and variants

SAV MKl - big fail - 10 years ago

Yesterday, in his excitement over the first prints coming out of our i3 Steel, my son stepped on the USB cable and ripped the Mini USB jack off the board. Despite my best soldering efforts, the USB now does make that "linking sound" on the computer, but won't link to Repetier software. Now we can still use the LCD to work with the printer, but that is rather tedious. Now I see the following o

by Anna & Karl - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Trimpo turning freely on Stepper Driver - what now? - 10 years ago

Yes, we're up to our neck in problems - some of the selfmade, RTFM type, and other, truly bewildering ones - plus the problems caused by a impatient 12yo, who made me resolder the Mini USB today after falling over the cable - I didn't even know this could be done by mere mortals, but it looks I saved the board. Will try tomorrow if it still works...

by Anna & Karl - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Heatbed broken? - 10 years ago

No heat at all - the board stays completely cold. Everything came already assembled and sealed in orange, rubbery stuff, so I am a little reluctant in cutting it open to check the solderings in there. And it is really 330 Ohm, not 3.3 Ohm.

by Anna & Karl - Prusa i3 and variants

Heatbed broken? - 10 years ago

The heatbed of our new printer does not get hot. When I activate the heatbed over Repetier Host I have 12V on the board where the heatbed cables are fixed. The heatbed LED on the board lights up with a solid light.The thermistor works, as it measures the room temperature correctly. Measuring the resistance of the heatbed ( measuring on the cables) gives 330 Ohm - isn't that too much? Is it ti

by Anna & Karl - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Trimpo turning freely on Stepper Driver - what now? - 10 years ago

That helped - everything moves smoothly now.

by Anna & Karl - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Trimpo turning freely on Stepper Driver - what now? - 10 years ago

Wow, thank you for the detailed explanation! This will be my next step. I really hope to get this thing printing soon! Best, Anna

by Anna & Karl - Prusa i3 and variants

Trimpo turning freely on Stepper Driver - what now? - 10 years ago

Hi, I am new to 3D printing. I just finished assembling a Prusa i3 Steel. I've had all axis working - but the stepper drivers (DRV8825) tend to get very hot and become unresponsive. When trying to adjust the trimpo it was turning freely and I couldn't find the starting position. How do I manage to adjust the drivers like that? When I tried to adjust the x-axis "blindly" I experienced some rathe

by Anna & Karl - Prusa i3 and variants