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I'm just gonna do a little shameless self promotion:
I would love if some people would implement it on their printers. It's worked super well so far.
by
galaxyman7
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Mechanics
I just wanted to share my program for processing gcode for the diamond hotend. The code gets rid of the need for firmware retraction so you can use any slicer without stringing. I also added a "gradient" feature. Just make sure the gcode is in the same folder as the exe, and make sure to include the file extension when typing it in.
Check it out:
by
galaxyman7
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Experimental
Here's a program I came up with for processing gcode:
Just place the file in the same folder as the executable.
It basically just creates a gradient from one height to the next. It also gets rid of having to use firmware retraction.
by
galaxyman7
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Experimental
Hi everyone! I have had problems with under extrusion after retraction for a while, and I never knew why! See the attached picture to see what I'm talking about. I would call it webbing, stringing, gaps, , localized under extrusion, etc. It only happened after doing a lot of small moves. I ended up trying to reduce the retraction speed from 100mm/s to 40mm/s, and it worked! I had no idea why it w
by
galaxyman7
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General
Hello everyone,
I am trying to understand how the Repetier firmware works, and I am having a hard time trying to find where the "main" program loop is so that I can kind of map out how it works. Which file should I start with? A summary of each of the files and their functions in relation to the main program would be extremely helpful. A flowchart would be even better.
Thanks,
Colby
by
galaxyman7
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
Ok so I had a thought about support material. Right now only a few support materials exist: PVA and HIPS. I have heard of many problems printing with PVA and it is expensive. HIPS is a bit better for printing, but requires limonene to dissolve, which is expensive and not very reusable due to film from dissolving the HIPs getting on the prints. Plus it requres a pretty hot bed and high temperature
by
galaxyman7
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General
That's pretty much what I thought. I will have to see if I can make it work then. Anyone have an idea of where I should start with editing the firmware?
I have an MKS Base V 1.2 board, and I was planning on using a CNC expansion board to add 4 more stepper drivers per the reprap wiki page. I will use the auxiliary pins on the board to assign to each stepper.
by
galaxyman7
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General
Hello guys,
I have a bit of a challenge for you. I have purchased a diamond hot end, and I want to run it next to my original hotend so I can print colors with the diamond, and supports or ninjaflex with the original. I am running Repetier firmware.
I saw that there is a procedure in the reprap wiki for mixing nozzles in Repetier Host, but it doesn't look like I can specify a separate nozzle just
by
galaxyman7
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General
@crispy
I have been printing with weed trimmer line for a while, and I haven't gotten my extruder clogged. As for the toxicity of the trimmer line, there is an instructable on the reprap nylon page that details the chemicals that are given off by the trimmer line when melted. Also, if you do clog your nozzle, it shouldn't be hard to just run ABS behind it to clean it out.
@blitz
The trimmer line
by
galaxyman7
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General
I just saw a post on Hackaday.com where a guy designed a muffler for an air compressor and printed it. That seemed pretty cool and very useful to me. I suspect that the best use for 3-d printers is for designers that want to mock something up to test it, or actually make a functioning part for something. Most people don't really design things, and so a 3-d printer doesn't seem useful to them. It
by
galaxyman7
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General
Wow this is really cool to have all these people continuing something I started I love seeing all the people working on this.
@SIMBA
Ya I'm sure melting any plastic isn't gonna be good for you anyways, adequate ventilation is always good to have. If you are still getting crackling and little puffs of steam, you should dry the filament more. When I print I don't get any crackling.
@Squad
There
by
galaxyman7
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General
Hey guys
I have been gone for a while because of school but I just wanted to check if anyone has tried printing with weed trimmer line as per the instructions I wrote here:
It would be cool to see how far people have gone with it (if any)
I have been printing using this method for quite a while and it is suprisingly reliable and fairly easy to set up
by
galaxyman7
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General
That is why I print it on card board. It sticks to it very well and keeps it from warping. Use that along with the "brim" and you should be fine. I do feel like printing at a higher temperature would be beneficial, both in making it warp less, and making the layers bond together better.
by
galaxyman7
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General
@ Steve
Have you been printing with trimmer line or a pure nylon welding rod? If you are printing with trimmer line, I suggest raising the temperature of the bed and the nozzle, to 240 C and 100 C. I find that it will minimize warping quite a bit. As for the fiberglass, that is a good idea. I will try it out over winter break.
by
galaxyman7
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General
@ajayre
And neither can you really determine the long term effects of printing with other plastics, such as ABS or PLA. There are many different manufacturers, which all produce different products. All I am saying is that I feel reasonably safe using trimmer line which is similar to the products tested. I am by no means saying that there are no long term effects of breathing the fumes for extende
by
galaxyman7
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General
I am very grateful to the person who wrote this instructable. It shows how little HCN is really given off, and this test is for a very small enclosed chamber. Now I can feel safe when printing with my weed trimmer line I will link to this instructable on the wiki page for printing Nylon.
by
galaxyman7
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General
@Ian
That is a good idea. I never thought about just copying and pasting.
@baslisks
it would definetly be nice to have this feature. There are many parts where I wish I could vary the amount of fill in each section.
by
galaxyman7
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General
Hi, I am printing off a lot of the same part, and I was wondering if there is a way to make part of it hollow. Basically I want the first few layers to be 0.4 fill, and above that I want it to be hollow. I am using slic3r. Do I need to use a different program to do this, or do I need to manually edit the gcode?
by
galaxyman7
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General
Ok well I came up with a solution for removing the cardboard that is fairly easy. I used a dremel tool with a fine wire brush attachment to sand off the cardboard. It seems like the wire brush doesn't damage the nylon, so I still have a nice surface finish underneath. And as long as you keep the nozzle height for the first layer above 0.3 mm or so, you shouldn't have to sand off too much cardboar
by
galaxyman7
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General
I just tried plaster, and it failed miserabley. The plaster didn't stick to the cardboard as well as I thought.
by
galaxyman7
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General
Haha that is my brother on the video. Ya that video got a lot of dislikes, possibly because people didn't get the sarcasm.
by
galaxyman7
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General
Well I tried dissolving the cardboard, and it turns out that Nylon will oxidize in sulfuric acid. This makes a gooey coating around the part and ruins it. It figures huh? I think I just need to find something else the nylon will stick to that dissolves in water. I am going to try plaster next.
by
galaxyman7
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General
The fibers are really just a fuzz. I doubt you could even tell if there were pits. The bottom of the part should look exactly like the surface of the cardboard. I just picked up some battery acid from autozone today and I am going to try putting the parts in that. I will rinse the parts in a water bath and dispose of the acid properly. If this doesn't dissolve cardboard, I don't know what will.
by
galaxyman7
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General
That is really interesting about the honeycomb increasing layer ashesion. I never thought about how rectilinear only has small points where it bonds to the surface beneath. I will have to try this.
by
galaxyman7
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General
The advice about the dehumidifier is good. To get rid of the moisture in the filament quickly, you can put it in the oven at around 150 C, or 300 F for a couple hours. That is what I do to get rid of the moisture in Nylon weed trimmer line so that it can be extruded.
by
galaxyman7
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General
Here is a forum post that discusses this subject:
by
galaxyman7
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General
That will get most of it off, but it still leaves small fibers imbedded in the plastic. This is usually fine but I want to spray paint the parts and the fibers make it look very ugly on the bottom. And about the drain cleaner, I will do everything outside and with adequate protection.
by
galaxyman7
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General
Thanks. Now I just need to figure out how to get the cardboard off the back of the parts. I think I might have to use some drain cleaner. Boiling it in lemon juice or vinegar doesn't work. I have seen videos on youtube of drain cleaner dissolving paper very quicky, so hopefully that will work. Either that or I try to run a lighter over it. I have a feeling that will distort the plastic though.
by
galaxyman7
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General
So I got my chip soldered in, and now the temperature read right and everything. I started printing and it looked good until I started getting periods of non-extrusion where the extruder gears looked like they were seizing up. I was so worried that the nozzle wasn't getting up to temperature that I totally forgot to look for the obvious....
The set screw on the extruder gear wasn't tighted down a
by
galaxyman7
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General
not sure if anyone has suggested this but you might use "makerslide" for the linear rails. It is pretty cheap and very accurate. Just look it up on google
by
galaxyman7
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General
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Pages: 12345