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I hope that this isn't too late to be of use. The timeout that returns the menu to the initial page is set with the LCD_TIMEOUT_TO_STATUS variable in the ultralcd.h file. This is on line 66 of the latest RC bugfix version (and probably very near there on other versions). It is to set to 15000 milliseconds by default.
by
MichaelBrock
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General
When digging through the marlin source it has helped me to remember how the computer communicates with the arduino...via discrete g-codes. So when digging through to see how marlin handled moves I searched for "g0" and "g1" to find the case statement that deals with them, then followed the code from there. Same approach when I was looking into how it handles homing (g28) and auto-bed-leveling (
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MichaelBrock
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
The bed leveling feature of Marlin can only account for a sloped but flat bed. It cannot account for the aberration from your putting the ruler there. It simply uses all of the data from the probed points to attempt to calculate a plane that best fits all of the measurements. It then uses that plane to calculate what changes it needs to make to make it "level". So that stray point from the
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MichaelBrock
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
I am looking forward to seeing how this works out. It seems I have spent more time printing parts to change/improve my printer than I have printing anything else.
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MichaelBrock
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Smart_Rap
I haven't had any issues with any sellers of 3d printing parts on Ebay and wouldn't hesitate buying from anyone with a reasonable rating. It turns out that I ended up buying mine from a seller in China (I ordered them to have them just in case):
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MichaelBrock
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General
I bought replacement PTFE heat breaks on ebay. There are quite a few sellers there of various designs. Not all shipping from the US of course but I was able to find a number of sellers for the design I needed that did.
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MichaelBrock
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General
I have the same issues. I understand the limitations of marlins auto bed levelling and have dug through the code to get a feel for it. The problem I have is that it is very inconsistent. I can do consecutive g28 + g29 combinations and get variances of a mm or more. Enough that i get air prints fairly often. I can do m48 at various points around the bed and get a standard deviation
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MichaelBrock
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General
I had the same issues with a knockoff that I had polished up and in which I had replaced the ptfe lined heat break with an all-metal one. Heat would creep up the heat break and clog things up. The fix was to switch out the all-metal heat break for the original ptfe lined one. No issues since then.
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MichaelBrock
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Printing
Can you address how 3DimMaker handles interior holes? Many, if not all, slicers have an issue slicing models to produce a dimensionally accurate hole. Invariably holes are undersized. For example:
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MichaelBrock
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Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Did you make the necessary changes to your Marlin firmware configuration.h file? You need to uncomment the line:
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
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MichaelBrock
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General
I have been fairly pleased with the print quality from my core. I have done quite a bit of work to tighten things up mechanically and just switched over to the Alternate Z Axis from andreasL. One thing I haven't even touched are the slicer (or configuration.h) settings for acceleration, speed, jerk, etc. Has anyone tweaked these up for their core and would be willing to share? In the very
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MichaelBrock
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Smart_Rap
QuotePARADOXICLES
how dare you claim im not willing to do the work... ive been working on this peice of shit for like 2 years......... im.not gonna wast time recording nothing.... you can look at a blank screen if you lack the ability to understand what nothing is...... ill try explaining for you once more.... take the filiment out of your pritner, then tell it to print..... the result you get
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MichaelBrock
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Printing
The lcd menu items are in the ultralcd.cpp file. To remove the FLOW and FLOW0 items just comment out these lines:
MENU_ITEM_EDIT(int3, MSG_FLOW, &extrudemultiply, 10, 999);
MENU_ITEM_EDIT(int3, MSG_FLOW0, &extruder_multiply[0], 10, 999);
The temperature control options are in the function
lcd_control_temperature_menu
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MichaelBrock
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General
I'd like to repeat what others have said. I was also using a clone E3d and had converted it to be "all metal" by switching out the ptfe lined heat break. I had a great deal of trouble printing (PLA). It would jam every time despite my trying quite a few different cooling options and the heat sink always felt very cool. In the end, I put the ptfe lined heat break back in and it has worked p
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MichaelBrock
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Printing
I followed the youtube videos on my even cheaper Chinese knock off (I actually bought 3 for $15 total and rearranged for the best parts) and have had good results with it so far (after realizing that PLA wasn't going to work with the metal heatbreak I switched back to the ptfe lined heatbreak and it has been smooth sailing since then). I say, if you want an out-of-the-box solution buy the re
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MichaelBrock
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General
One thing to check is whether or not the EEPROM is enabled in configuratin.h
#define EEPROM_SETTINGS
#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT
if the EEPROM is enabled (by uncommenting the EEPROM_SETTINGS line) then the value stored there will be used and the setting in configuration.h totally ignored. I had this same issue. I kept tweaking the configuration.h file but it never changed the offset. Turned out
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MichaelBrock
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Smart_Rap
QuoteJamesK
Congratulations! Glad you got it going. SmartRap core uses a cantilevered bed doesn't it? The twisting load on the LM8UUs for that sort of design is always likely to create more friction than a non-cantilevered layout.
It does use a cantilevered bed. The new z-axis system I was printing the parts for has support on opposite ends of the bed, so should be a big improvement.
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MichaelBrock
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Printing
This morning I rebuilt the z-axis system. Cleaned it, oiled it, and removed what little slop there was by replacing the screws clamping the LM8UU bearings in place with bolts & nuts. I also upped the vRef up a bit to .6v (on 1.4A stepper motors).
One or the combination of both seems to have done the trick! I have managed to print the remaining pieces of the thing I have been wo
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MichaelBrock
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Printing
QuoteJamesK
Hi Michael,
Sounds like you've tried pretty much everything! I saw a statement about having tuned the motor currents downwards, and that nothing was gettting very hot - have you tried going the other way? Adjusting the Vrefs up towards the motors rated current value. Perhaps it's time to get things nice and warm and make sure you have enough torque to do the job.
Certainly worth a s
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MichaelBrock
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Printing
I'm running out of ideas. I changed filaments to Hatchbox PLA and made sure to run the .stl file through Microsoft/Netfabb 3D Model Repair site and, the same
I'm going to do it, one more time, and try to film the event.
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MichaelBrock
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Printing
Quoteturboproc
Hi, had the same problem a while ago. Replacing most elements that I could change to no avail. This happened to me on a Prusa with E3D hot end.
At each print the hot end would jam after an hour or so. Cleaning did not help.
Having not too many alternatives left I decided to change filament brand. This solved the problem for once and forever. In fact with this filament temperature
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MichaelBrock
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Printing
This morning I switched the x & y steppers to use 1/16 steps and tried a print, and it succeeded! Not wanting to claim success prematurely, I tried a second print of the same model, and it failed like all of the ones that went before. So that's not the answer. I have had two other fluke successes for longer prints. So that's like 3 successes and a dozen+ or so failures.
Quotecristian
If
by
MichaelBrock
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Printing
Another change, another failure, but more data! I changed the stepper drivers for the Z axis and extruder to 1/16 steps (down from 1/32) and upgraded to Marlin 1.0.2 (I didn't think this would be a fix, but it needed doing eventually) and no change. However, this time I caught the problem while it was occuring. The x and y axes were suddenly way off the mark. One second they were following t
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MichaelBrock
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Printing
The latest changes: I switched out the Mega2560 to a new one (which fixed my power issues with the Arduino in that it wasn't drawing power from the Ramps board) and, no luck. It failed again somehwere around 1/2 way in to a 1.5 hour print. On an unrelated note, I was having issues with Marlin 1.1RC2 I think were related to bed leveling. Oddly inconsistent. One good print (or at least a good
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MichaelBrock
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Printing
I had similar issues. Check to make sure that when you save the gcode to the sd card from within Repetier that you have it include the start & end codes. It's possible that you have necessary start codes configured in Repetier (such as homing, bed leveling, etc.) that need to be included when you export.
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MichaelBrock
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Printing
I can't really help with your issue but I can answer the question of whether or not you need to use pully sprockets instead of idler pulleys. You don't. Many succesful corexy designs, such as the SmartRap Core use idler pulleys without issues. I am having other problems with mine but it does make nice circles!
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MichaelBrock
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Printing
QuoteKurzaa
This is contrary to what DownUnder suggested, but you might consider disabling the EEPROM in your firmware while doing the initial calibrations. Helps to avoid issues where changes to the settings are not correctly saved to the EEPROM (due to user error, not problems with the printer).
I would reccommend this as well. I too just built my printer and I went through quite a bit of fru
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MichaelBrock
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Printing
Quotecristian
Do you have a heated bed?
I do not. I'm printing PLA on window glass coated with a glue stick. I am getting very good adhesion though. I have taken to sticking the glass sheet into the freezer for a bit so that I can remove the print. I actually broke the glass sheet when attempting to remove the tablet stand in the picture above. It tore a piece right out of the middle of the
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MichaelBrock
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Printing
QuotecristianThere are many shades of "jamming hotend", in particular there are some conditions where the hotend stops extruding because it is jammed, but after a few seconds the jam can be slowly expelled on its own without manual intervention so the outflow is restored. There is nothing wrong inside the hotend, it is more a combination of hotend design, cooling conditions, volumetric printing s
by
MichaelBrock
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Printing
The latest attempt at a fix was to switch out for a new Ramps board. Didn't work. I was there when it failed this time but that didn't help much with a diagnosis even though I was staring at it I didn't realize there was an isuse until it was too late. There was no "clicking" from the extruder motor and neither the stepper driver or motor were even close to "hot". It happened in a pretty shor
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MichaelBrock
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Printing
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