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Mine is 95.2. It's measured on cold extrusion using caliper. 350 is a way off, such huge values are for geared extruders.
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteWibbles
I also tried slowing it down which seems to have cured it, it now runs at 80% instead of 100%. I am also trying to get that infernal clicking eradicated on the extruder mechanism. I have slowed the rate down by 60% using the lcd which doesn't affect the print quality at all, but it still has that annoying racket going on, if anyone knows how to smooth it please post up the solution.
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
M666: In Marlin, only negative endstop corrections are allowed.
Actually, you can change your overall Z-height so offsets became negative.
Personally me live with rather big offsets {-2.36, -3.42, -2.14}, so my endstop switches are even not in pressed state after G28 homing.
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
I always used 4-point method to calibrate my printer: 3 points near the towers and the center point.
As my heat bed is firmly screwed to the frame and can't be leveled, to calibrate tower points I iteratively use M666 command (software endstop offsets). So, the algorithm:
Check X tower. If X is not OK, adjust offset via M666 and repeat from step 1. Check Y tower. If Y is not OK, adjust offset vi
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
5. You need not only insert the code above into retract_z_probe() function, but also refactor the rest of procedure to eliminate any unnecessary extra movements that it can do.
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
I think you need to look at retract_z_probe() function.
You can insert there a code sequence to wait of clicking on LCD joystick. Like it's done in M600 command:
uint8_t cnt=0;
while(!lcd_clicked()){
cnt++;
manage_heater();
manage_inactivity();
lcd_update();
if(cnt==0)
{
#if BEEPER > 0
SET_OUTPUT
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteWibbles
235 + (-4.10) = 230.90
or
235 - (-4.10) = 239.10
239.10
This value is just the distance between print surface and nozzle after homing.
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Anyway, with springs installed the heat bed is still a bit movable (when nozzle scratches over printing model). So, I threw springs away and replaced then by some plastic spacers instead.
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteOG
someone had vibration dampers installed and I tracked down such things from ebay to my kossel
So, it's worth it? Do they perform well?
I ended up with 8 mm silicone leg pads. That's made my printer almost silent, just weak buzzing sound from motors.
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Found my post regarding hearbreak length when I received my kit year ago:
QuoteGrAndAG
I've got a caliper and made some measurements of my hot-end.
The hole inside of heatsink is 19mm in deep. But heatbarrier goes only to 16.5mm inside. Even if the hole will be full threaded it still needs 2.5mm of deepness.
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
SJN, from the video it looks like the printer does pause on retractions (before and after idle moves). So check retraction speed, z-hop settings, etc in the slicer. You can try to look in G-code file and find appropriate commands for "problematic positions" and check if they are correct.
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteSJN
Had to reverse the extruder stepper motor plug, as it was extruding backwards.
Alternatively, you can reverse it in firmware.
QuoteSJN
I dont want to install the autolevel probe.
Do I have to disable something in the firmware for that ?
You can do nothing for it. Just do not use autoprobe command.
QuoteSJN
Im guessing that you have to somehow tell the hotend that the printbed is at a
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe
The two terminal pairs feed different parts of the board using two fuses. One is for steppers and general stuff, the other is exclusively for the heat bed.
On the RAMPS board, yes, these terminals are different. But the question was about PSU terminals.
Eventually, they are all connected together ("+" and "-" separately, of cause ) in PSU.
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteSJN
I thought the board would be completely blank of any software, but it seems that there is marlin firmware already on it since I can see the menue on the LCD ?
Yes, it's shipped with Marlin preinstalled.
QuoteSJN
How am I supposed to connect the 2 temperature probs to the pins on the board ?
What are all the singe wire ribbon bales for ? (solder the temp probe wires to them so I can c
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteDejay
... wonder if there are any tips about attaching the thermistor to the heat bed?
I just attached it in the center of back side using couple pieces of kapton tape.
QuoteDejay
Also, what are those components on the PCB? Two diodes and a resistor?
They are just dumb LED power indicators. One of "diodes" (depending on connection polarity) is light up when heat bed is power on.
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe
Also sintrons extruder gear is MK7 ( not MK8 )
Neither MK7 nor MK8, actually, from drive-gear perspective. They both should have grooved drive-gear, like this:
But on Sintron's gear the teeth are straight.
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteDRTakI would say PLA < ABS < PETG < NYLON < Metal effector would be my guess as to the least likely to warp.
You are saying about melting(soften) points. But I can't agree that it's correlates with warping. At least I can say about PLA. I'm using cooling duct mounted on effector to cool objects during the printing. The end of it is almost touching heater block (2mm away I can s
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe
QuoteDrTak
Next, I wish someone would sell that fire suppression system for the Kossel. I only say that because I have had at least 3 instances where my Ramps started to smoke. I have a duet now but you never know.
Better save than sorry, they say.
But wouldn't it be better to take care of the ( known ) issues a RAMPS can have? Exchange MOSFETs, replace fuses with blade fuses, che
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteElectric ant
I blocked my hothead twice in 2 days ...
If you are printing with PLA, it's recommended to use heatbreak throat with PTFE tube inside (I'm printing using such throat). Bare metal throat tends to stick to PLA (someone suggested to add a drop of oil to filament in this case and I read that it really helps, but I did not try this method actually).
QuoteCrisCG
when i removed the sh
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteElectric ant
I got my traxxas rod ends yesterday and have put them on with the sintron rods (just for now) and already there is a vast improvement. The effecter stays level all the way around the bed now, no more binding rod ends.
I have seen some carbon fibre rods that I am interested in, what inside diameter should I get - 3mm or 4mm ? and which will give the best fit (either 3mm screw in
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteElectric ant
When I remove my prints, I peel the tape off and the printed item comes off with the tape (most of the time) then just peel the tape off the print.
Hm... I'm printing on the same piece of tape almost 2 months already. More than 50 objects actually. And the tape is still providing good adhesion (I print with PLA). I remove objects by hand or using pliers, trying to not rip the ta
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteElectric ant
I have only used blue tape so far and haven't had any problems yet, I expect problems when I start printing bigger things
No problem with blue tape and bigger prints. The only problem is... the bigger print is - more difficult to tear it off.
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Quotehacker
QuoteGrAndAG
Quotehacker
QuoteElectric ant
....how tight should the belts be ? because 1 of mine is slipping and it sounds horrible.
My top frame is all the way to the top of the tower posts and my belts are all pretty tight (I don't want to risk snapping 1 by tightening it too much).
And second......when in pronterface and I click on X home, all 3 axis go home. Same happens when I c
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Quotehacker
QuoteElectric ant
....how tight should the belts be ? because 1 of mine is slipping and it sounds horrible.
My top frame is all the way to the top of the tower posts and my belts are all pretty tight (I don't want to risk snapping 1 by tightening it too much).
And second......when in pronterface and I click on X home, all 3 axis go home. Same happens when I click Y or Z, all 3 go hom
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
You can look into g-code file and check which coordinates exactly printer is commanded to move to.
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteElectric ant
My problem is that my motors are making some strange noises. They groan, they whistle and the Y axis clicks.
When I use the manual controls in pronterface, the motors move sort of right (although most of the time they are noisy), but when the axis stop the motors don't.
By that I mean the power does not shut off to the motors and they start whistling, then the Y axis starts clic
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteBigkahuna2187
My current situation:
And what are the diagonal stripes under(?) blue tape? They are placed with gaps and blue tape is not flat on the bed.
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Quotegkr
BTW, I also saw some FSRs at my local Microcenter, so I picked them up. They had exactly 3 of them However, since I need to do quite a bit of work before that setup works, I have refrained from taking up that challenge yet.
AFAIR, FSRs do not like heat. Regular FSR's usually can handle PLA temps (<60C), but nor more. They likely will not be damaged, but readings will be inaccurate.
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteCrisCG
I played with the smooth rod offset, but i'm not getting it right. i measured 161.5mm. this value doesnt't work. also tried 159 to 175. no good. any suggestions?
After adjusting smooth rod offset you have to re-calibrate end-stop offsets. Because actually the adjustment does not directly lower/upper effector in the center, but more likely uppers/lowers positions near towers.
So, actu
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Quotehacker
QuoteDRTak
Quotehacker
QuoteGrAndAG
QuoteDRTak
I have a 2nd thermistor on the heatsink itself and it reads 100deg C.
Hm... My heatsink is about 45C, I think. Because I can easily touch it by hand and it's definitely colder than heat-bed @ 60C. And I do not have fan shroud (I use stock mount way).
Interesting. Maybe it's cold in your room?
I see all the comments and yes. I think th
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
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