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Try using Arduino 17, that I know works, and some have already noted issues with the Arduino 18 IDE
by
Grogyan
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RepRap Host
I like how its red and black, very cool.
by
Grogyan
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Reprappers
Cheers, I don't suppose you inquired about belts to be included in the kit?
by
Grogyan
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Mechanics
No problem.
Just had a quick thought (dangerous those), if VXB also included the belts in the kit, VXB would definitely be a one stop shop.
In New Zealand, the closest supplier is in Australia, and they appear to be a small business, so my concern is that they will maybe one not sell those belts.
by
Grogyan
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Mechanics
My initial experiments showed that the flow rate is impeded by the viscosity of the liquid plastic, for me its PLA, 0.5mm nozzle seems good, although I did have problems with heat transfer to the barrel.
by
Grogyan
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Reprappers
Though it looks like the additional 3 608 bearings have been removed.
Just gives more incentive to buy all those bits from them, and they are still cheaper than locally bought.
by
Grogyan
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Mechanics
steveo290 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Ok well perhaps you can show me where my math is
> wrong. I was plugging values into the formula that
> you have on the commissioning page and came up
> with 0.1131. It seems simple enough, I don't know
> why I can't get my fat head wrapped around it.
> Thank you for the assistance so far though.
>
&g
by
Grogyan
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Reprappers
Gear ratio will always be 1 if you are using a pinch wheel only hence for your parameters the gear ratio of 1 was used.
Yet for Adrian's geared extruder the ratio is 5, but he also uses an 8mm pinch wheel and 400 steps (half step).
I looked at the posed spreadsheet before, and that I found unnecessarily complicated, so the eqution I used is at the bottom of the commisiong page, its so simple I
by
Grogyan
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Reprappers
I still like the Mendel cartesian robot design more.
The support material is ABS, but it must be at a different temperature by the looks of it.
The site doesn't mention use of any other plastics other than ABS, so for me thats a downer, all that wasted unrecyclable/uncompostable plastic
by
Grogyan
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General
For any gearbox, or geared extruder, the mere presence of gears increases the resolution of the extruder, thus you need to multiplay the ratio to the resolution you are driving the extruder at, usually 200 or 400 steps.
For Adrian's geared extruder the resolution increases for each 1mm of extrusion.
The gear ratio on Adrian's gearbox is 11:59 or 5.3636, multiplied with the resolution you are driv
by
Grogyan
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Reprappers
This should be what you get for your parameters
0.8488
by
Grogyan
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Reprappers
My concern for glass nozzles is the broken glass everywhe when it breaks.
I walk around barefoot
by
Grogyan
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General
I bought a few nozzles from MakerBot as I had to justify the shipping cost of fiberglass coated nichrome wire.
I have a couple spare now, bought 3.
Later on I think i'll get my extruder bits from MakerGear.
Considering i've had my extruder up and over 300 degrees C, both PEEK and PTFE turn jello at 250, where my thermal break is BakeLite.
Here is a tip rather than forking out lots of cask for
by
Grogyan
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
I'm going to use this module on my RepStrap, initial tests with the module proved quite successful, but with two differences other than wireless.
1) On ther MakerBot electronics you need to wire the 5VSB to the VCC pin of the serial port, but by doing this means you CANNOT use a USB to serial because you WILL blow up your computers' motherboard.
2) In Firmware, ensure you have the baud set to
by
Grogyan
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General
This message from a robo nut.
To have fun with robots!
by
Grogyan
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Reprappers
My package finally arrived about a week ago, finally, and I got more than enough to play with, 10 feet worth.
Still, its annoying to have to order something as simple as insulated nichrome wire from as far away as the US or China, when it should be already readily available in here in NZ.
Yeah, so if anybody wants a short length, i'll be at the Arduino group in a couple of weeks.
6Ohms worth is
by
Grogyan
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
I just found an Australian site that does sell the wire i'm after, though I don't know how reputable they are.
MakerGear in the US seems to have a better range of bits, and am tempted by their heating core
Alas they too use USPS, i'd much prefer to use a proper international courier, like DHL or FedEx.
From Googling it appears that any reference to fiberglass and nichrome together always lead
by
Grogyan
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
Sadly, I did not.
So I had bought a couple of lengths plus a couple of other bits from MakerBot, however USPS has screwed up again, and somehow the package was last seen in the Netherlands on the 10th of June.
I still really need the nichrome, if anyone knows of another source of the fibreglass coated variety
by
Grogyan
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
Just wondering if anyone has attempted to turn Wade's extruder into laser cut format suitable for both Mendel and RepStraps?
Going through the design last night, and I see some problems when doing a laser cut version, like screw holes.
Thanks
by
Grogyan
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
You can use springs from a BIC pen, though I don't know what the ID is of them.
by
Grogyan
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Mechanics
When I put that into the wiki, its based upon two types of common solder.
Tin/Lead also called 60/40, SnPb
The other is ROHS
Tin/Silver or 63/37 which has an even lower melting point at 183 degrres C
There are solder alloys around for different jobs all with varying melting points of about 250, above and below, but seeing as most people will use that which is easiest to come by, usually tin
by
Grogyan
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
Nudel Wrote:
> I also see some people solder the nichrome, but
> the wiki says it's a bad idea. If solder melts at
> about 300 deg celcius, how would heating the
> barrel to 175 deg celcius for PLA, dissolve the
> solder? Or am I misunderstanding something here?
Solder melts at 186 degrees not 300.
In anycase I enjoy seiing your pics of the extruder assembly, i've ordered last w
by
Grogyan
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
Cheers, however NopHead is right, from what I observe with the new windings is the Shoot through current heating up the wire beyond temp to induce a "faster" thermal inertia in the barrel and nozzle.
The new nozzle I have made up is 0.4mm, with a stepper motor from MakerBot driving the filament into the barrel.
I think that 0.4mm is the upper limit of what can be extruded with using PLA, the fl
by
Grogyan
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
I'm working on making better thermal conductivity while insuring the barrel is insulated.
Why does the nichrome have to be 6ohms?
Is there any reason why not to just have 1 set of turns the length of the exposed barrel?
I'll be having 1 more go tonight wrapping the nichrome with kapton, to see if no fumes are created, which I mentioned in a previous post, is currently a big problem.
Cheers
by
Grogyan
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
My first experience with kapton tape for insulating the bare nichrome wire has left me looking for a different solution.
I'm looking for a supplier (other than MakerBot, and a little closer to home) that sells fiberglass coated nichrome wire or fiberglass sleeving with an internal diameter of about 0.5 or 0.6mm, does anyone know me a source here in NZ or in Aus?
by
Grogyan
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
Word I got from Adrian when I asked is this.
The RepRap host will not work for 64bit OS's
RepRap host probably can work for Win7 32bit and xp 64bit.
And I did tell him that he should make sure that it is compatible with 64bit OS's as 32 bit ones are slowly being phased out.
Note XP has only got a couple years left before MS stops supporting it altogether
by
Grogyan
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RepRap Host
Not sure what you mean by thermally coupled, as when I wrapped the nichrome over the barrel with the kapton tape at the same time, I tried to get the coils as close together as possible, though this resulted in 2 layers of coils for 6 ohm wire in a 10mm gap on the barrel.
It also doesn't help much when the thermocouple reads 50 degrees too low.
I could just use straight fire cement if need be,
by
Grogyan
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
Just wondering if anyone else has come across using Kapton tape to the extent that it will always give off bad fumes.
I turned on my extruder for the first time a couple of days ago and it leaks, leaking the adhesive which I believe maybe causing the fumes.
Not sure exactly what I have done but i'd like to not have to sniff these fumes when the printer is actually going, any clues would be help
by
Grogyan
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
