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how has it been stored? It could have absorbed some moisture
by
lazzymonk
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General
Is your thermistor seated correctly?
by
lazzymonk
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Controllers
You could do what I have done recently which is buy a dc-dc booster rated at 600w for £16. I run an atx psu which has plenty of power but runs at about 11.5v which means my pcb bed takes a while to heat and has a max of about 90c. I have the booster set to about 14.5v which is lower than the max rating of all my ramps components.
The increase of 3v increases my beds power from 100w to 160w which
by
lazzymonk
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RAMPS Electronics
I searched for quite a while. I can only find references to Silicone heaters. Which is not what im on about.
by
lazzymonk
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General
Has anyone used a thermal conductive pad on there pcb heat bed like http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180930963328 between the pcb and glass or aluminium surface?
If not can any one see a problem with something like this? Im thinking that better thermal contact will improve warm up times.
by
lazzymonk
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General
downloading now
by
lazzymonk
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General
If it is a new hotend is it a new thermistor too? If so have you selected the correct one in your firmware? You could be burning your filament
by
lazzymonk
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General
try increasing the temperature a bit. Are you able to manually push it through the tube?
by
lazzymonk
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General
what type of plastic are you trying to print? and what temperature are you using??
by
lazzymonk
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General
Its not always the case though. I have a relatively cheap atx supply for mine. I use the motherboard connector and the P4 connector as the atx spec says they should be on different rails. They both have slightly different voltages and if one is loaded the voltage drops but the other says the same.
But you are correct most are connected together.
So your best bet is just give it a try. It will
by
lazzymonk
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General
I had a problem like that. Reduce your acceleration
by
lazzymonk
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Reprappers
Reprapworld.com sell some
by
lazzymonk
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General
It all looks ok. Do you have another usb cable and pc you can test it on. if it still doesnt work even with the 12v not connected i would say you have a faulty arduino.
by
lazzymonk
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RAMPS Electronics
isnt that normally done in the slicer?
by
lazzymonk
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Reprappers
that sounds like some sort of test firmware to make sure the motors work and everything is wired correctly. I would suggest trying to upload the firmware.
by
lazzymonk
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Reprappers
Could you post a photo of your board, as it is. someone might see something that isnt quite right.
by
lazzymonk
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RAMPS Electronics
Try increasing the current to the motor using the trim pot on the driver.
by
lazzymonk
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Reprappers
Silly question, but are sure sure your plugging them in the right way round?
by
lazzymonk
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RAMPS Electronics
It should be possible to open and fix. You should be able to either resolder the damaged wire. If pad on the pcb is damaged you will need to trace is to where it connects to the wire from the coil and bridge it with a new section of wire.
by
lazzymonk
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General
Can you manually push plastic and make it extrude? Sounds like your nozzle is blocked,
by
lazzymonk
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Reprappers
wire it directly to the ramps power. small fans use very little power.
by
lazzymonk
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General
I was looking to do something similar with these www.ebay.com/itm/180656328674
What sort of size pipe are you thinking of?
by
lazzymonk
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Reprappers
try insulating the heater block. I wrapped my jhead in about 20 layers of ptfe plumbers tape, then a bit of kapton to hold it together. much more consistant temperature now. Might work for you too.
by
lazzymonk
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General
atx are molex mini fit jr
any reason why you dont want screw terminals? how about crimp something onto the end of your cable then insert that into the screw terminal? Thats what I do so i dont wear out the cable and less chance of breaking.
by
lazzymonk
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RAMPS Electronics
in marlin it is Z_HOME_RETRACT_MM in Configuration_adv.h im not sure about sprinter. Might help
by
lazzymonk
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General