Show all posts by user
i think you will be surprised at the quality and accuracy of printed parts if you are patient and spend some time on set up.
I've just come from a meeting with Igus where i have purchased some of their linear bush bearings. Hopefully they will be quieter than the standard LMU8's
they also have a whole range of supplies for 3D printers and what looks like some great filament. Looks like a good c
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Spliced a GT2 belt !!! I bet that was fun . Im not sure there are any advantages to a single Z stepper other than machine weight and power consumption The original prusa's had a single stepper/ belt drive but over the years the dual stepper configuration has been adopted. I kind of get where you are coming from in modifying yours to a single but have to admit ive never had an issue with a dual se
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
think you might need to take a long look at the physical properties of 6mm acrylic v alu Often the compression/tensile properties are better than alu, added to which ...thermal expansion . Just a thought when you come to strap your PSU to the frame :-)
I came across your thread when looking for more peoples opinion about ABL . One misconception that seems to be floating around is that ABL can co
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
at first glance id say over extruding and too cold.
When i get new filament i always print a test piece Normally a 20 X 20 square hollow that 100mm high as it prints and assuming PLA i start to 200 deg then reduce by 5 deg every 6 mm height ( sometimes mark the height where i change with a felt tipped pen)
If you model is hollow you could pretty much do the same to find the best temp for that f
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
This thread helped me a lot. Thanks to all involved
Cheers
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bigfilsing
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Reprappers
and dont forget auto bed leveling means the z axis will be constantly moving during a print !!! Im not confident that M5 threaded rod ( typical Prusa i3) and stock nut will handle that constant movement well.
Even on my Prusa Air 2 where i have ball screws on the Z axis im still on the fence as to the relative advantages of auto bed leveling . Just my 2 cents
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bigfilsing
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General
HI
Was the servo control issue resolved ??
I am printing the ZOrtrax and doing some mods
PM Grab cad files
I like the idea of using the ramps 1.4 but think i may want some more control of the steppers to ramp up and down the speed for each movement.
Just wondering if that would be possible with Marlin / Ramps 1.4 ??
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bigfilsing
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Robots!
Quotedougal1957
Just to add a little here I have recently purchased 2 more V6's from E3D and they are now supplied with a small sachet of thermal compound which should be smeared on the threads that screw into the Heatsink and NOT on the heatblock side.
HTH
Doug
Interesting indeed. Is there any brand/ type of the paste ?? I wonder what the temp rating is and if it's a standard "CPU" type of pa
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bigfilsing
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Delta Machines
The whole point of the heatbreak ( or throat tube) being so small is to stop the heat traveling up the hot end assembly hence the transition area (on the E3D for example) being turned down to a minimal diameter so there is less material to conduct the heat. The aim is to keep the filament as solid as possible for as long as possible before it reaches the heater block and nozzle chamber.
Any hea
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bigfilsing
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Delta Machines
Good to hear its working.
You need to get the basic calibration of X,Y,Z & E ( extruder) 100% perfect before you even start to think about improving print quality.
The good thing is when you're done you shouldn't have to touch them again ( unless of course you change something major on the machine)
Each machine is different and many types & brands of filament have different properties.
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Quotecozmicray
quote Bigfilsing "It looks like there is some kind of cover shroud at the hot end
to stop the air from the fan hitting the heater block . Not very efficient at all."
Confusing Statement
Cooling heater block (melting filament) is not helping
just requiring more power to keep it at temperature
Yes -- cool above heater to keep filament solid so it can feed
Yes -- cool after extrusi
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Hi
Thats a bit of a weird set up but it should work but it wont be very good
.
It looks like there is some kind of cover shroud at the hot end to stop the air from the fan hitting the heater block . Not very efficient at all.
The fan arrangement isnt the best it could be thats for sure and i think this is where your problems is.
To be clear
You need a fan on the cool fins ( only the cool fi
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Ok i dont think the reason for your hotend jamming is the config .h
I know it can be very frustrating when it jams but be patient. Remember there are 1000's of home printers that work fine and yours will as well if you are patient !!!
You are under extruding 6% but i don't think that would make your filament jam in the hot end.
But while we are at it maybe you should adjust it. ( im assumin
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
You really don't make things easy friend
What kind of hot end do you have ??? What filament are you using ? What are your basic settings for temp/speed/ printing.
With so many different printers and set ups and parts how do you expect people to give advice to help you solve your issues
That's like ringing the AA and saying my car doesn't work ...help. They would at least need to know what ma
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
The hot end cool fins have to have a fan permanently on. Even after printing you should leave it on for 5 to 10 mins while the hotend cools down !!!
Of course im not sure what kind of hot end you have so cant be sure but post some pics the we can advise further
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Quotejepigepas
Hello all of you,
I must thank you very much for your help !
Thank you Dust,
Thank you Bigfilsing,
Thank you Cozmicray,
Thanks to you I was finally able to print my first pieces using PLA.
My bed heating is out of order, so I have used blue painter's tape that I have put on a removable plastic sheet. So it is very easy to pick up the piece after printing.
I just wonder if it possib
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Quotejepigepas
Quotebigfilsing
I think you may just have to accept that your heated bed is defect and source a new one before you damage the ramps board.
You can still print PLA without a heated bed ( using painters blue tape) so you could still experiment with your printer while you wait for a new heated bed!
Its normal for the thyristors to get warm/ hot, especially the one driving the heated
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
QuoteQbert25
Sorry bigfilsing , what does that have to do with the jumpers?
The silent step sticks completely ignore the ramps jumpers !
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Or you can order some silentstepsticks. The best upgrade ive done to my printers.
They run smoother and a lot quieter
silentstepstick your tube vid
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
I think you may just have to accept that your heated bed is defect and source a new one before you damage the ramps board.
You can still print PLA without a heated bed ( using painters blue tape) so you could still experiment with your printer while you wait for a new heated bed!
Its normal for the thyristors to get warm/ hot, especially the one driving the heated bed but not hot enough to melt
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Quotejepigepas
I have no LED on my bed resistance
I am manufacturing a resistance with pencil leads.
I'll put it in series with the bed restance in order to have an overall resistance of 2.5 Ohms.
I have no idea how that will work. If your heated bed is indeed defect then i think you may just have to buy a new one.
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Quotejepigepas
I have measured 1.6 ohms on mine.
I have seen on the bed resistor from where came the slam. A bubble under the coating has exploded !
I think that my resistor has some short cut.
The problem is that I have no other resistor by me...
If that's the surface resistor then its only for the indicator LED !! you should be able to use the bed without the LED and resistor
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Just as reference i just measured my heated bed MK2b wired as 12 volts and it reads 2.5 Ohms ( that's with a cheap multi meter set at 0-200 Ohms)
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
it sounds like there is a problem with your heated bed. The polyfuse shouldn't get hot !!
Are you sure the heated bed is wired correctly ??
Most heated beds have the option of 24 or 12 volt use. Are you sure you have connected it correctly ??
The polyfuse wont last forever and will eventually stop working so try and figure out what is wrong first.
Maybe show some photos of your heated bed a
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Quotejepigepas
Quotejepigepas
Hello agin Dust and Biglilsing,
sorry to come back again, but now come the problems of operation.
I follow from the beginning the elctronic guide and in the procedure it is proposed to test nozzle temperatures and bed.
For the nozzle it runs good and I could extrude my first 50 mm ABS, but for the bed, set temperature was fixed to 110 ° C.
It rose to 50 ° C and stopp
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Quotejepigepas
Hello again,
I have changed the line "#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,1600,462}" and replace it by:
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {160,160,3200,924}
and the desplacements now seem to work better.
But now,
I have found a calibration guide "Triffid Hunter's calibration guide".
I have made the different calculations giving the X, Y and Z steps /mm so as the steps/mm o
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Quotejepigepas
Sorry bigfilsing,
but I have not found how to calibrate the motors current.
Further, I guess X displacement by step and Y displacement by step must be related to the pulley diameter, so as to the belt pitch.
The Z displacement must be related to the pitch of the vertical leadscrew.
How can we modify or set these settings?
Best regards,
Jack
No need to apologise ...we all had to l
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
thanks for the quick reply.
ive been using octopi for a while now and its pretty good but i was thnking something more like a local screen something like
[:RTQ:US:1123" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">www.ebay.com]
the listing states ramps 1.4 compatible but .............
just not sure how the touch control would work as i dont think marlin allows for it.
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics