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heres a sample line from a marlin config.h
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {44.64,44.64,1280,282} // default steps per unit for ultimaker
where 44.46 = X axis
44.46 =Y axis
1280 = Z axis
282 = E steps
hope this helps
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
does anybody know of a working touch screen configuration for a ramps 1.4 board.
ive searched around a bit but cant really find a working solution.
all input appreciated
cheers
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
the first step for me is to download and run the simple test program that will test all the motors forwards and backwards regardless of endstops.
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
I checked and tested everything and I can only assume firmware / due issues. Given up on this now. Far better things to do with my time and money. Would have been cool if it had worked but doubtful if any significant practical benifit could be booked. I initially wanted to run a Delta printer with this project. Now a few months on I realise Deltas aren't with the hassle either in my opinion. Dual
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Hi Rob
Just so happens i am just back from working overseas and building a Prusa i3 for a a friend of mine so at least i will understand the i3 issues better.
Please excuse me if my dutch is bad but i like to try and keep it up even thou i dont speak it much nowadays
Neem het mij niet kwaalijk als ik jou iets vertel de je al weet. Het is altijd morlijk in te schatten wat verschillende mensen w
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bigfilsing
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Projecten
one thing many seem to forget and isn't too well published is that at initial power on ( or after a reset) you can only move the motors in one direction ( towards the home position) This is a safety feature.
Until the home end stops have been used once the controller has no idea of "where" in space the axis is . Therefore it needs the home command in order to "know" where each axis is.
First thi
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
is your firmware set to "bang bang" rather than PWM !
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Hi
Sounds indeed like something a bit strange is going on. Assuming you have the basics set up correctly I would try swapping around cable looms then motors , stepper drivers and see if you can get the problem to move as well so you can isolate what exactly is causing your problems.
It is also worth investigating the stepper moors them selves. As mass produced items they are not all "made equa
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Quoteenif
Quotebigfilsing
SO all the mods are done . Marlin4Due loaded on the Due board. Anything else i should look for before i plug her in and let the magic smoke out ! ??
Nothing that I can think of right now... So I'll keep my fingers crossed for you!
Well the magic smoke didnt come out BUT ( why does there always has to be a but !) its not working.
The red LED for the bed heater is di
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Quoteenif
Quotebigfilsing
[so they have to be cut off right ??
Not the pins, but the trace going from them into the RAMPS circuitry, as shown on the lower right of Andrew's first picture here.
Thanks enif. I some how keep forgetting the relationship between the pins and the cut trace.
SO all the mods are done . Marlin4Due loaded on the Due board. Anything else i should look for before i plug
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Quoteenif
These are the two 5V pins that are cut off on the solder side in order to reconnect 3.3V instead. .
so they have to be cut off right ??
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for the quick response enif
I think i got confused because it doesn't actually indicate to cut off those particular pins . They are just isolated from the boards 5 volts but cutting through the trace. Correct ??
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Hi guys
Finally have a bit of time and all the parts needed to experiment with this hack
Couple of questions
What is the jumper shown in the pic for ?? I understand that it allows to be backwards compatible if mega 2560 operation is required but i dont see any mention of this short/ link in the original hack
Does the Due need its own ( normal) power supply or is it fed from USB or Ramps P
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Hi Rob
Looks pretty good to me. You mentioned its not 100% stable??? What problems are you still experiencing then ??
Het lijkt vrij stabiel in de videos. Wat voor probleemen hebt je dan nog ??
Cheers
Phil
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bigfilsing
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Projecten
HI Rob
De weerstand is helemaal niet nodig en kan zelfs mischien probleemen geven voor je ramps/arduino
Die "pull up" en of "pull down" weerstanden zijn intern op the ramps bord and kan in gebruik worden gesteeld in de config files.
Je hebt alleen 2 draaden nodig voor elk microswitch en verder niets . Je moet alleen opleten op welke aansluit punten op the micro switch je gebruikt. NO or NC (
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bigfilsing
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Projecten
Een vraag
Waarom heb je een weerstand aan de Z microswitch??
Cheers
Phil
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bigfilsing
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Projecten
I was planning on replacing all 3 ( as i managed to source a 5 pack of IRLB3034's on ebay)
I don't have an in depth knowledge of semiconductors, so to avoid any issues i thought replacing all would be the safest route
Kind of good to hear that im not the only one who struggles a bit with the removal of MOSFETs . My main concern is for the RAMPS PCB traces and "cooking" them during removal. So i
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
QuoteAndrewBCN
Well, we had two digressions in this thread:
1) Choice of 3.3V logic compatible MOSFET: conclusion, the IRLB8743 ($0.80) should work fine and the IRLB3034 ($1) should work fine too, perhaps even better.
2) Using 24V on a RAMPS modified for Due operation: just don't (and if you want to continue discussing this, please create a separate thread).
Hopefully we can go back to the main t
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bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Quotevhoward1122
In my case, it was a flakey ramps board.
Yeah that does happen . Ive had acouple over the years too. Once you get them workign they tend to be quite reliable thou.
You can understand at the price point theyre at they cant afford to really do extensive testing of each board.
Bad solder joints / bad auto fuses/ bad mosfet drivers for the heated bed seem to be the main problems
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Not really much info to go on.
What kind of hot end do you have ? What PLA are you using . Speed ?
I would recommend you start with PLA at 200 C and print speed of 20mm/s and a layer height of 0.3
Hot end clogs can have many causes ...too much material too cold etc etc
IF you just feed the extruder with the head 10mm or more above the bed you should get a nice consistent flow of filament
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Well thats good news ...
How can the pin out be wrong ???? its all very clear and has worked for many people for a considerable amount of time !! Or is that just a smoke screen for less than ideal wiring harness
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotelokiwizz
Little update to list the psu specs.
Supernight
360w
12v 30a
This would be sufficient as long as it is capable And in good working order?
Should be OK looks like a standard unit. There is sometimes a small trim pot near the terminals that allows you to adjust the out put voltage but that's normal not needed as they are usually set at the factory during testing.
It would be norm
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotelokiwizz
Allright guys all these are valid points.
at this point I have not tested every motor.
but two motors act the same when plugged in to any of the drivers. As for steps or speed I have not changed them. the power supply I'm un certain on an explication on how to test for that would be greatly appreciated.
The replacement parts should be in today along with the osiliscope so I will ch
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteo_lampe
How are the odds for buying steppers nowadays, that are NOT able to do 1/16 microsteps?
Background: I sourced my steppers I used to play with from old copymachines. They hardly do 1/2 steps, better use fullsteps only....
Just thinking out of the box
Olaf
PS: Did you try to reduce speed and acceleration settings?
Assuming we are talking about Nema17's the chances are very slim
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
The stepper motor info seems to be pretty straight forward and as expected
do all the stepper motors jitter the same way when you try to move them ? Im just thinking its unlikely that all the drivers are "blown" in the same way.
In my experience they just dont work at all when blown.
Are you absolutely sure your 12 V power supply is good and doesn't collapse under load or something.
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Ive never had a problem with not having a stepper motor actually connected.
Pluggin in or out while powered is a definite NO NO !! As the drivers are current regulators the spikes caused when pluggin in/out while powered can cause fatal damage.
I would order a new set if i were you. Even if you resolve your issue, a set of spares isnt a bad thing
There's no real way of testing the drivers fun
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Easiest way to test is to use the test Marlin firmware to see if your motors work.
Remember before loading to put your X& Y carriages in the middle of their travel and the Z at least 20 mm off the bed. The test software doesnt look at endstops or anything else just runs the motors backwards and forwards.
test code
Its unlikely ( but not impossible) you have blown all 4 drivers. It sounds mor
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRobertMB
I had prints that looked exactly as bigfilsing's, lowering the steps for extrusion in Marlin solved my problem. If i remember correctly my setting was calibrated to 620 but i lowered it to 520. So now when i extrude 100mm filament i actually only get about 80mm but my prints are perfect.
I think you'd probably be better off adjusting the extrusion multiplier in your slicer software
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Rob
Your method of adjusting with a single A4 sheet sounds fine.Stay with that.
Im using Marlin on my ramps and Pronterface on my PC so i can only really advise using those.
You shouldn't be looking to adjust the speed (snelheid) of the extruder but the amount (hoeveelheid)
The speed of the extruder together with the XY&Z is set in your slicer software when you slice a model.
Ive ju
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bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants