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sorry i dont have any experience with your control board ...maybe somebody who does will respond
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Ok Rob
mijn schritelijk Nederlands is niet so best maar ik zal het proberen.
Ten eerste heb ik gezien in je video dat er een probleem is met de fan ( of ventilator zoals je het in the video noemd) The fan op the hotend E3D moet altiid aan staan !!! Ook na het printen moet het even na laten draaien ( dus de machine niet gelijk uitzetten) tot the hotend helemaal afgekoelde is. Dus deze fan moet di
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
If it indeed did come out at 40mm it would suggest that the jumpers under the Z axis stepper driver aren't working correctly and its set to 8 micro steps instead of 16 ..( which will give double the size)
Just my 2 cents
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
the only things i can think of that would make the X& Y at the same time are if you hit the home all button or you have them plugged into the wrong sockets on the ramps board
if they dont stop at end stops it can mean your end stops arent wired correctly or not configured correctly in your firmware.
With power off manually position the x Y and Z axis so no end stops are touched. Then power
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteChri
wow thats really tiny compaired to a normal LCD i love it, i would have one for my small Beiwagerl and Pluto printer, they would fit perfect
I was thinking since some time of turning the encoder 90° to the right side, with this the scrolling would be more intutitive and the case would be even more compact ^^
But i don`t know if such a encoder is available that will fit that style.
I
by
bigfilsing
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Controllers
Quotecraftygeek
The Ooznest i3 has z-axis isolators which are supposed to remove any issues with the z screws...in this case I don't think they're quite doing their job properly, so i'll be giving them a once over at the same time.
Could you post a pic ??
Ive just taken a look at the STL's of the X carriage of an i3 and the Z travel doesn't have an anti-backlash system and relies solely on a s
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Just out of interest what do you have your Z axis steps per/mm set to???
I dont have an i3 and have never really studied the mech's much. IS there an anti backlash system built into the M5 threaded rod/nut system or does it rely solely on gravity "holding" the X carriage down on the nuts ??
If we have narrowed it down to a Z axis issue then maybe you can measure it.
If you have a good digital
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Thats strange indeed ...
I think you would need to see how the model was orientated on the print bed during printing to try and derive a conclusion from the bunny model.
i.e. are the surfaces OK when printing in the x axis direction ? does the problem only occur when the x & y are moving simultaneously
What still confuses me is how regular the issues appears ( every 8th layer or whatever
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
well i dont think there's anything wrong with you Gcode see pics below
If i were you id print slower thou >>>25 to 30 mm/s
So i think you have to take a long look at your build . Judging by the images youve shown id start by going over everything on the Z axis. ( aside from the Y axis LMU8 you have identified already)
do your threaded rods rotate smoothly ...no stiff spots
Is your Z a
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
That's what commonly known as a linear bearing or LMU8 and certainly the one at the front in the video has way too much play/clearance ( te veel speling)
they are normally quite loose because we want a friction free travel on the rods but what you have there is a problem.
Most of the LMU8s for 3D printers are quite cheap low quality ones but still work well if lubricated properly. Its also criti
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
I dont think you need to take it apart and start again
I think you need to explore the issue further
Its regular and consistent which means we can rule out an intermittant fault ( like a bad motor connection or drive belt issue )
its uniform on the X&Y axis so it doesn't look like they are at fault. So that leaves us with the Z axis
The first question does this happen with all your print
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Are you still having the issue ???
Ive had a look at the Hephestos wiki and cant see anything that would be specific to this Prusa i3 variant that would cause your issue.
Ive also looked at the model and dont see any issues there either . It has been printed many times without problems as can be seen on the Thingyverse page.
Im just running a print now on my Prusa Air2 and ill post some pics l
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemadmike8
Thanks
You're Welcome
I've printed and built mine and it works well so far. I'll post some pics later
by
bigfilsing
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Delta Machines
Quotemadmike8
Any updates on this design?
Its all here Thingyverse
and a direct drive bowden extruder Direct drive extruder
by
bigfilsing
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Delta Machines
Looks OK to me
I would start with PLA as it generally requires lower temps than ABS. The hotend is quite short and there's not much cooling surface on the fins so i would be a little concerned when using higher temps that the heat "travels" up the hotend.
Having said that, the fact it has a liner will be an advantage in stopping the filament heating up before it reaches the nozzel.
That fan shr
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for the info update
I dont know of that particular board or your printer specifically but as they all work in a very similar fashion i doubt that the cause will be printer or controller specific. Could be thou.
Looking at the images again its almost like it prints 5 or 6 layers fine then prints an oversize one . Almost like a correction layer ...maybe trying to get rid of an accumulated
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Some details or photos might be useful. Cant really tell what you bought from your description.
I've never had problems with hotends that have liners but make sure its genuine PTFE thou
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegleegum
QuoteIm not 100% sure of the type of extruder body you have but it looks like the retainer clip that holds the bowden tube has come out. See picture below. It is obviously critical that this end of the bowden tube is firmly secure in the extruder body
I see,
the instructions for assembly this part (in fact the whole video) was a piece of sh*t.
I didn't know that clip was for that.
r
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi
By controller i meant control board , as in the electronics board that runs your printer i,e, Ramps , Rambo, Smoothie board etc
Im currently traveling but ill take a look at the model when i get home tonight
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks DC42 appreciate the explanation
What draws me to this is being able to use my silent stepsticks Trinnamic 2100's
I have a Due on order and a couple of back up clone Ramps 1.4 so ill definitely be giving this a go when i get back home in a few days
by
bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
yeah and if all that fails WD40 :-)
I would use duck tape unless you want a weird smell and a gooey mess traveling up a down the y axis eventually. I guess I was lucky that i had some kapton tape already so i havent reallt tried other types to be honest
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks DC42
One last question then ill stop ...promise
Is there any significance to them in fig 1 ( and other figs) zooming the graph at 1 to 2 volts and 10 to 20 volts
Thanks
by
bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics
Or if you want really quiet steppers on your X and Y axis and you know how to use a soldering iron you could try
Probably the best benifit V cost upgrade to reprap printers
They can be a bit tricky to configure so if you do go with them post here or PM me and ill show you what to do
Oh yeah and be sure to order the cool fins ...they need them
Cheers
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
You would do well to give more info
what controller are you using
what firmwear
what slicer
what software do you use to print
As the deviation is uniform ( not in one particular axis/plane) i think you need to look closely at your slicer/gcode
Printing at 0.1 layer is on the limit of reprap printers anything lower is delving into uncertain territory
Just for kicks try printing at 0.2 , 0.25
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi
If no filament is coming out of the hot end how come its covered in black burnt stuff ?? Just kidding
Right .....first things first
you need to use both bolts and springs on the extruder otherwise you stand a chance that the pressure roller bearing will not be running parallel to the extruder hobbed bolt - not good.
230 sounds very high for PLA ...I've never had to go above 205 and ive
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Interesting thread.
Steppers...before they arrive you should do research on how to wire them up. They are unipolar steppers ( 6 wires) but you will be using them as bi-polar ( 4 wires) so its important to know which 4 wires ( of the 6 ) you need.
Also get hold of some suitable Du Pont connectors and crimp insert pins ( 4 pole for steppers) ( 2 pole for thermistors)
Some thing like
Hotend ..
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Looks very good Rob
And it looks like your have your print speed at a reasonable level.
Keep it that way . One of the biggest mistakes ive seen new guys make is to set the print speeds too high and then wonder why they are having trouble with print quality.
Keep the print speeds set to where they are now while you get some experience with extrusion amounts, layer heights and temperature settings
by
bigfilsing
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Prusa i3 and variants
Please forgive my limited knowledge of electronic components and principles but id like to understand this more.
I understand that due to the fabrication process the gate threshold maybe as high as 2.5V . I understand that due to voltage regulators /PCB traces etc the gate drive maybe as low as 3V .
The bit i dont get is how that could potentially equate to a 15V drop.??
Thanks
by
bigfilsing
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RAMPS Electronics