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QuoteRossini
does anyone know if the sintron extrusions are compatible with the robotdigg metal corners?
Yes, they are. Sintron's extrusions are standard 2020 extrusions. And metal corners are for 2020 standard extrusions also.
But you will need M5 screws and nuts because mounting holes in Robodigg's corners are 5mm.
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QuoteMrPCatt
... the object cooler is connected to the
by
GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Does anybody know what is the amperage rating for our stepper motors? I googled by the model name (SL42STH40-1204A) and found many different specs: 1.2A, 1.33A, 1.68A, 1.7A. Which one (if any) is correct?
I want to play with Vref and for that I wish to know actual drive characteristics.
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
ohfurryone, looked into your config...
Not related to your issue: #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1
Double check you can archive ±85 for X/Y axes with 250mm height. I hardly can exceed ±65 with 204 height (but I'm not using Sintron's rods).
Try to reduce acceleration to 1000 at first: #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1000,1000,1000,1000} Steppers could probably skip steps.
Also it could be fault d
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteSir_Death
So why don't just put GND on the Hotend, connect printbed to Controller-input with pullup resistor activated, and detect the nozzle touching the printbed?
I saw video on Youtube where z-probe was implemented in this way. So, It could work.
The main issue here is to achieve good contact when touching the bed. So, no glass or tape anymore. Even the coating like ABS soup or PVA will
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Quotehacker
Sintron LCD's kill switch I haven't even tried, maybe it's designed not to work…
I tried and it works. It immediately stops any motor movements at least. When I made initial configuration I sent carriages to out of limits several times, and used this button to stop the printer.
QuoteAnHardt
Kill is much saver than a reset because after a reset the machines is listening to the serial
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Quoteblurd
It doesn't short out anymore, but it is TRIGGERED when the probe IS deployed. I connected the switch as shown in the manual. Then I tested it hooking up the NC(on the left) terminal on the switch to the middle pin on the RAMPS and it works like you mention, so I must have a mis-wired one.
z probe wiring
You can invert the behavior of this particular switch in firmware config, to avoid
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Blurd,
As for LCD wiring... This way works for me:
It seems your connection is the same, so the issue is not in the wiring.
Quoteblurd
I tried adjusting the contrast, but I just got brighter squares. They should become darker and eventually disappear.
Another assumption - did you enable LCD support in firmware?
As for Z-probe... Generally all end-stops and z-probe switches are connected by 2-
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Quoteblurd
First, the LCD displays only squares, but the audible click works. The wiring seems fool proof, so I suspect a faulty solder joint or dirty power.
Did you adjust the contrast? It's a little, em..., thing (variable resistor) at the back side of LCD plate. You can rotate it with screwdriver.
With wrong contrast settings I also saw squares when I switched LCD on at first time. The actua
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
HaGeEm,
I'm printing PLA @ 195C all layers, 0.2 thickness (all layers again). 60mm/s for perimeters (70% for outer), 80-90mm/s - infill, 60mm/s - top/bottom (15-20mm/s very first layer). But I heating up the bed is very bit - to 40C.
Even on default Slic3r settings (40mm/s, 200C, layer 0.3) I had my very first print (1cm cube) very decent. Could you show us yours?
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteMrPCatt
For the object fan we now just need a really space saving solution. Or at least a solution which does not collide with one of the towers.
Mount the fan facing to the front (or any side between towers). I doubt it will collide much (if any).
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Ideally, you have to have 2 fans. One is permanently cooling the heatsink and connected directly to 12V contacts of PSU. And the second one (for PLA cooling) is blowing directly to area around the nozzle, which can be connected to D9 output of RAMPS for controlling from printing software (or from g-code).
Like this:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:540716
Or this:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thi
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteTha_Reaper
As an example of what i mean with overhang artefacts i'll show these 2 pictures:
Front of the object:
Back of the object:
you can see a lot of thick overhang issues on the back, while only a few on the front. My therory is that this is because of the tilted hotend...
Is it PLA or ABS? If PLA, the difference could be due to non-uniform cooling.
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
If the effector moves without any tilt, you should have absolutely no problem even with non-vertical hot-end. Because this defect affects offset only, and it's constant. Which can be adjusted in Slic3r to make [0:0] point of the nozzle perfectly in center of the table if you wish. But it's absolutely not needed.
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteBigkahuna2187
Any way to adjust this nozzle height after its gone through G28 and G29 prior to printing?
Thank!!
You have to properly tune the offset of z-probe if you use G29.
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
The LCD screen usually shows current stage - "Heating the bed", "Heating...", "Heating done." And right after that actual printing is started.
You can look into g-code file and see what actual sequences are sent.
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteBigkahuna2187
How long does it take to 'initialize' printing?
AFAIR, the default Slic3r sequence is: printer waits for bed is heated, then homes, them moves the head closer to the bed, heats the head, and starts printing.
Heating the bed is the most time consuming procedure. Heating the head takes about 1.5 minutes.
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
I can suggest buying solid state relay to connect heating bed via it. It will eliminate all problems with mosfet and fuse overheating.
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteBigkahuna2187
Is there suppose to be a Blomker .ini file in the slic3r zip?
Nope. "Blomker " is another supplier of 3d printers and it referenced in Sintron's user manuals because Sintron simple "borrowed" them. So, you have to create your own settings for Slic3r from scratch.
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteTha_Reaper
QuoteBigkahuna2187
Quotehacker
QuoteBigkahuna2187
Looks like I had a bad stepper drive. Good thing the kit came with an extra!
Meaning you got it working?
Yes everything is working properly now. Glad it was an easy fix.
Now, when homing, are the carriages suppose to hit the endstops and stay or are they suppose to go down some? hit and stay, unless you manually set endstop offs
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Actually, it does not matter which is L and which is N. It's hard to find devices which is sensitive to that. In Europe, you can plug power cord in 2 position (normal and upside down), and you can't distinguish which position is right. Here, you need special indicator tool to detect which hole is L.
BTW. I tried to print Eiffel tower and after 2 section (about 30min) PLA filament was stuck in P
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteTha_Reaper
Does anyone happen to have the STLs for the sintron effector and holder/bracket
The bracket seems can be borrowed from this thing -
As for "fixed" effector, just be noticed that it can not match the carriage width (the size between arms): "fixed" has 38.5mm vs 40mm originally.
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteTha_Reaper
What's that part that you used? Can I buy that somewhere?
You can buy push fit connector which has larger inner hole and capable to pass PTFE tube through. Like this.
So, after the pushing PTFE tube you can get the following:
QuoteSir_Death
I've a strange roll of PLA - more than about 10-15mm/sek printing speed is not possible.. (Volumetric 1,3mm³/sek)..
It's definitely stra
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
BTW, my design of endstops mount plate -
It has cavern for soldered pins from back side of endstop PCB. And also has pin for precise mount.
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
In my hotend I replaced all-metal heatbreak to one with PTFE tube inside. So, PTFE ends even touching brass nozzle inside heat block.
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Quotehacker
Perhaps I'd try some thermal compound on heatbreak threading to improve thermal transfer to heatsink.
Just FYI.. Regular (usually for computer coolers) thermal compound is not designed for high temperature, such as in our case. It will degrade rapidly. But it worth to try, if it solves the problem (at least for short time) - you found the problem.
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteSir_Death
Nozzle was jammed this morning after unattended night-print...
I think - or at least hope - I found the problem. - The screw which is pressing the heatblock onto the heatcartridge broke in the middle, so it was not correctly pressing the two parts together anymore...
I do not think that the problem is in not good heater contact. It can affect the time of heating and wasting energy
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Quotenebbian
Quoteo_lampe
Don't take the nozzle diameter for granted.
I got 0.3 nozzles from china, which are 0.4 and vise versa...
-Olaf
What's a good way to test this?
Find a piece of wire which is 0.4mm (0.3, 0.5, etc) and just check if it fits. I used a bunch of packing wires (they usually used to pack device wires, such as mouses, computer cables, etc). I was able to found 0.3, 0.4, 0.45 a
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
QuoteSir_Death
Increase Hotend temperature to 220/225/230°C - only more stringing, but not more extrusion....
I think, I'll use the Filament as it is, and maybe with next Filament, things get better...
Did you check if there is a jam in the nozzle and (possible) in the heat breaking tube? Overheating PLA can lead to jams.
BTW. I print PLA @ 200C (all layers) with bed @ 45C on blue tape. With 0.
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
Today I did very first print. It works! Here it is the 1x1x1cm test cube:
The bottom layer is a bit junky because the filament was just inserted and the extrusion was not started at very beginning.
But why the corners are round a bit? Is it normal?
And it seems it over-extruded (but I calibrated extruder precisely: 100mm requested - 100mm got).
The settings was: PLA @ 200C, layer 0.3.
And a
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
BTW... Sintron's guys sent me replacement parts which could match their large rod ends. I've received definitely larger belt clips (for roller cars) and rather the same effector plate. Rod end mounting hole on belt clip is moved to 1.5mm farther from carriage. But regarding the effector... I noticed the only change - it's 38.5-38.7mm (instead of 40mm) between mounting points for rods. In the same
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GrAndAG
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Delta Machines
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