Show all posts by user

Re: weak ABS - 8 years ago

A couple updates: The seller was super helpful and replaced my role of ABS. On the role, the plastic feels much less brittle and does not snap like the other ABS does, though it still does feel more brittle than i feel like it should. I unfortunately only got 2 or 3 layer of a test item printed before my extruder broke. I have a new bearing in the mail, it should be here on Monday. I'll update

by AudaciousTuddle - Printing

Re: Possible Power Supply Problem? Motors stopped mid print. - 8 years ago

some power supplies have a 110V (USA) and a 220V (Europe) mode, it's changed by flipping a little switch. If you are in the wrong mode bad things happen. Also I would advise using a multimeter to test everything. make sure that your power supply is A) producing a voltage across the 12v contact and the ground, and make sure that current is actually flowing into the printer. You can test this by p

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Cura End Gcode - 8 years ago

It looks like you already have the problem fixed, but just for good measure i wanted to explain G-code a little better. G-code is basically a programming language, so it has certain commands and certain syntax it expects. The syntax is {G-code} {arguments}; . Some G codes need different arguments, some use the same arguments but do a different thing. When printing the most common G-code is G1,

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: How to find out the best print configuration step by step - 8 years ago

This link is what most people start with. Once you have gone through that just figure out what you need to improve on the prints and start changing variables one at a time until you have it all dialed in. This thing and this thing are well known prints for improving print quality. if you need to start a thread for calibration help, anyone on this forum will know what those prints should look

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: weak ABS - 8 years ago

The diameters seem to be ok. I sent the manufacturer a message and they are replacing it for me. I think I was just shipped a defective product.

by AudaciousTuddle - Printing

Re: weak ABS - 8 years ago

The enclosure never gets above 50C. I have always been afraid to get it too hot in fear of hurting my electronics. I actually have a heat controller designed with an arduino and a hairdryer, but am waiting until I get my electronics outside the enclosure. And I have tried normal speed, and slowing it down to around 25mm/sec.

by AudaciousTuddle - Printing

Re: weak ABS - 8 years ago

I haven't tried lower than 230C. I'll do that right away. I have contact the seller, and they seam like they are willing to work with me. Thanks!

by AudaciousTuddle - Printing

weak ABS - 8 years ago

I'm having problems with ABS. I have been able to get it to stick to the print bed, however my prints are really weak. I Am able to easily snap abs prints in half, even ones where the PLA counterpart is too strong to break. There does seem to be some layer separation, but the print will snap across (perpendicular) to the grain. What can I do to make my prints stronger? I switched to ABS from PLA

by AudaciousTuddle - Printing

Re: TEVO Tarantula/Electron Slimbot/Migbot-lots of questions! - 8 years ago

One option you have is to download the firmware again fresh from its Normal repository, but then just switch out the config.h file. That's what I had to do.

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Def errors - 8 years ago

DEF is code for "Defective". It is an error generated by the firmware, and could actually be a problem or is just your firmware thinking there is a problem, the latter is unlikely unless your printer is in a really cold garage (like mine was, giving me this issue). The first issue however is easily detectable with a multimeter. Check the resistance of you thermistor, if you have a 100Kohm thermis

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: TEVO Tarantula/Electron Slimbot/Migbot-lots of questions! - 8 years ago

So that is a lot of information... my advice is just go with the manufacturers firmware, then calibrate it following the triffid calibration guide. . Even if the firmware does have all of the right settings, it will need to be calibrated for your machine anyway. I don't know why your firmware would say "migbot" my best guess is that its a copy-paste error on their part. They changed some of the s

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Aluminum frame screws popping out - 8 years ago

I think super glue is your friend here, even if it does end up in the threads, it isn't so strong that you won't be able to just thread the screw through it a couple times. if your really worried you can get a tap that matches the threads on the the screws, and run that through after the super-glue has dried.

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Prints not fitting together - 8 years ago

Lets assume that your printer is properly calibrated in all axis. If you try to make a 1" peg fit into a 1" hole, it will work in CAD but not in reality. In reality you need an allowance, an allowance is the amount of "wiggle room" a part has when it is fitting into a hole. so a 0.9" peg in a 1" hole will have a 0.1" allowance. whenever anything is made, it also has a tolerance. A tolerance is ba

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Temp. fluctuations and themistor issue? - 8 years ago

buy a 6 pack of those thermistors, they are cheap and break easily (at-least i break them all the time). I have also had to buy a replacement heater cartridge for a similar problem, but try replacing the thermistor first.

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Problem with extruding - 8 years ago

I would first try to un-clog it the way Roger said above. A lot of people have issues with the direct drive extruders. I honestly never got mine working, i jumped ship and went to a greg-wades extruder within a couple weeks of fighting the cheap one that came with my printer. defeatism aside, you might want to check your feed rate, your steps/mm and make sure that your stepper drivers are seated

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Weak ABS - 8 years ago

I look forward to trying PETG at some point, but I still need to learn how to use ABS. Lots of people do it right, so it shouldn't be too hard to get it right. Any other ideas?

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Weak ABS - 8 years ago

I'm having problems with ABS. I have been able to get it to stick to the print bed, however my prints are really weak. I Am able to easily snap abs prints in half, even ones where the PLA counterpart is too strong to break. There does seem to be some layer separation, but the print will snap across (perpendicular) to the grain. What can I do to make my prints stronger? I switched to ABS from PLA

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: prusa i3 top layer lower than perimeter - 8 years ago

can you post a picture? i'm not sure i understand your problem.

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Folgertech Prusa i3 prints leaning tiny bit, and new hot end question - 8 years ago

my guess would be that you have a structural problem somewhere, which is the best type of problem because structural problems are easy to find and fix. check that your frame is square, and sitting on a level surface. Make sure that your smooth rods are straight, and held in their slots firmly. And make sure that you threaded-rods/leadscrews aren't so bent up or otherwise screwy that they are inte

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Can you print with solder? - 8 years ago

So theoretically the extruder can pump solder through it, it shouldn't have any problem getting to the melting point. But metal doesn't have whats called a "glass transition temperature" which in human terms means "the temperature when things get gooey". Plastics can be used for 3D printing because they can be heated just passed their glass transition temperature (often written Tg), to a point o

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Some assistance please - 8 years ago

it sounds like the extruder motor is underpowered. Setting the temp at 220 helps because it thins the plastic, putting less torque on the motor. The motor/extruder pair on the He3d machines just don't work.

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Some assistance please - 8 years ago

I was never able to get the cheap direct drive extruder working on my cheap HE3D kit. I replaced it with a gregwades geared extruder. Though I could have just bought a higher torque stepper, which probably would have been the better option.

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Some assistance please - 8 years ago

Do you have your microstepping jumpers installed under the stepper drivers? It also sounds like it could be a slicer issue.

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Some assistance please - 8 years ago

I had to replace my throat with one that had a PTFE liner. You might also want to check your extruder's steps per mm if you haven't done that yet.

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: unsightly tags on 0.1mm prints - 8 years ago

Any progress?

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: unsightly tags on 0.1mm prints - 8 years ago

Well I'm glad your firmware is all correct. That makes things much easier on you. Have you tried adjusting the trim-pots on your stepper drivers? This thread has a great detailed description of how to do it.

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: unsightly tags on 0.1mm prints - 8 years ago

The esteps is definitly what your looking for. But you can actually tell if it's calibrated or not without that. The easiest way I know is to measure 60mm of filiment op from the extruder and mark it with tape or something. then manually have it extrude 50mm, measure the distance you have left, if it's not 10mm then BAM! You know what your problem is. I highly recommend a pair of calipers for T

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: unsightly tags on 0.1mm prints - 8 years ago

Did your controller come with the firmware on it? Or did you have to use the arduino IDE to upload it? If you have the files you can look in the config.h file, inside that file there are a bunch of different variables that you can set, including the extruder steps per mm. I know in the Repitier (what I use) you can also set it using the LCD screen.

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: unsightly tags on 0.1mm prints - 8 years ago

Your almost definitly under extruding. One of the effects is that is causes first layer not to adhere as well since it is not putting down enough plastic.

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Unable to Level Bed Corner #2 - 8 years ago

Did you try what I said?

by AudaciousTuddle - Prusa i3 and variants