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Quotethe_digital_dentist
That sounds like a great idea. It only needs to move up and down a little. so it might be easiest to do using a solenoid and lever. A simple gcode post-processing script could be used to insert lift/drop commands into the gcode file to drive a solenoid. Just add lift after every retraction and drop just before extrusion restarts
Problem with a selenoid is that you may
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oz9ny
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CoreXY Machines
I didn't read all your message; skipped the solenoid section :-)
An idea came to my mind, I don't know if anyone has tried!
Instead of moving the build plate down and up during the z-lift you can move the printhead up and down.
Only a small stepper is required for moving the small mass of the printhead.
When I have finished building my new Hypercube300 I will make some experiments.
/Niels
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oz9ny
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CoreXY Machines
Another observation when looking through example.cfg
The diameters of the nozzle and filament is burried in the cfg file and as I understand those parameters is used in the print process.
When I change the nozzle I then have to log-on the Pi and alter the printer.cfg with actual parameters.
I would instead like an extra parameter to the FIRMWARE_RESTART command so the process can be done from
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oz9ny
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Interesting piece of software and concept.
Unfortunately I don't have a printer to be used as testprinter and I don't like to tinker with my production printers so this is just my thoughts about klipper.
Comparing the list of supported G-codes with my latest prints sliced using Simplify3D only two G-codes fall out.
The first was M84-Disable steppers and that is easily fixed because M18 is an al
by
oz9ny
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
What's the problem as you see it. To me it looks good :-) First x and y is moved to their home positions then the height of your buildplate is measured at 4 or five spots. Then printhead is moved to buildplate 0.0 and printing begins.
You have to calibrate your z-autolevel so the printhead is at the right distance from the buildplate. several descriptions and videos can be found via the search
en
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oz9ny
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Smart_Rap
I think you are moving beyond your axes.
Try reducing the size of the printer in your firmware. f.ex 100mm * 100mm and then test again.
/niels
PS
This is the part of the configuration to modify
// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 195 // make it 100 instead
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 210 // make it 100 instead
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 190
#define Z_MIN_POS
by
oz9ny
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CoreXY Machines
This idea came to my mind after having advised my son to modify an Ikea kitchen cabinet for his current project instead of ordering mdf-sheets from the lumberyard.
The kitchen cabinets could hold a large SmartRapCore at least 500mm*500mm*500mm!
Any takers?
When not in use, just another cabinet in the workshop :-)
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oz9ny
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Smart_Rap
I have added a small notch to the hotend fan. This prevents the fan to slide down and touch the head of the hotend.
This is for a 30mm fan.
by
oz9ny
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Smart_Rap
I had the same problems with the SmartrapCore extruder. My Ultimaker broke a tooth in the middle of an important print. What to do in a hurry? I took the extruder from my small SmallrapCore and finished the print. Success, customer got his print. Then I printed two new extruders to be used on the small printer and the new UltimakerCoreXY using the same gcode as for the first extruder I made. So f
by
oz9ny
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Smart_Rap
After having played a little with corexy on a small smartrapcore I decided to design a corexy to fit inside an Ultimaker box with a print volume as close to the original Ultimaker as possible.
I had a ultimaker clone box in my junk-box :-)
Here it is before mounting below the top-plate:
The bearings are 624zz nearly same size as the pulleys. XY-motors are nema-11.
To overcome the smaller wid
by
oz9ny
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CoreXY Machines
I had the same concern about the new y-axis sliders. They take 30mm from the x-axis. My small 100*100*100mm^3 smartcore would grow down to a 70*100*100mm^3 printer with the new parts so I went to the drawingboard (sketchup not onshape yet) and designed a core-xy that has been in my dreams for a long time.
A corexy that fits inside an Ultimaker Original sized box and a printing volume as close to
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oz9ny
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Smart_Rap
The new y-slides makes the x-axis 30mm shorter than the old one..
The upper lm6uu holder on the head is a bit too loose.
When measuring on the stl the width is 12.4mm the hole bottom hole is 12.2mm and gives a tight fit with my printer.
Just found out the hard way :-(
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oz9ny
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Smart_Rap
Just a few comments to the onshape parts:
1: The small M3 holes should be a bit smaller, it's too easy to overtighten the screw and then damage the "thread"
2; The fan duct is missing from the standard_plates. Again smaller holes here for M3-screws instead of the fan mounting with screw and nut.
(Slowly climbing up the onshape learning curve :-)
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oz9ny
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Smart_Rap
And now we have to learn a new cad program :-)
I like the hotend fan.
And I wan't Nema14 and LM6UU .
PS the "L" is mirrored on the standard left motor (xy_motor_left).
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oz9ny
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Smart_Rap
A long due project is close to be finished. Goal was to test core-xy and to have a small (portable) printer. The printer has been testet with a birdsnest of wires :-)
And to get rid of the birsanest I added a box frame under the original for hiding all the electronics. A ramp board plus a Raspberry Pi with OctoPrint plus a powersupply.
I'm not sure about placement of the extruder. It may be m
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oz9ny
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Smart_Rap
]The four panels done using a drillpress, small tablesaw and a scrollsaw. Material is 5mm plexiglass.
Next week i'll make the upper corners and assemble the whole machine.
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oz9ny
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Tantillus
Can eventually be used as parts for a TantillusPlus :-)
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oz9ny
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Tantillus
More proof of concept!
I have spent some hours with Sketchup designing the Tantillus H-Bot.
The greatest problem was getting enough travel in the Y-direction. In X-direction there is lots of space because I have the steppers placed on the backside of the box. The bearings for the hot-end mount is LM8SUU, but LM8UU can be used too. Perspective in the photo is a little misleading, distance bet
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oz9ny
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Tantillus
Well, my box is a little larger than the original Tantillus so I expect a build area of 150mm*150mm after having redesigned the y-bearings.
Inside X=250mm*Y=225, intention was to have a square box, but measure once and cut twice :-)
X-axis is 150mm after the motors is moved to the backside of the box and the bearings opposite to the motors is moved a little closer to the front. There was no
by
oz9ny
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Tantillus
Hi
I gave up fiddling with the fishing line setup on my Tantillus sized 3D-printer :-) OK, it worked but I wasn't really happy with it.
About the same time I learned about the Tantillus I saw some experiments with a H-Bot setup using fishing line but again I don't like fishing line.
After having tried several other designs (Huxley, Wallace, Huxley-sized Mendel90). Printed, build and discarded
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oz9ny
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Tantillus
Thanks. I had a bowden system in (with all pro and cons) mind for my version.
/niels
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oz9ny
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Mendel90
Can you tell a little about issues when scaling down the Mendel-90 to a Huxley sized printer. I have tried changing parameters and studyed the output from make_machine.py.
The Mendel-90 will take up too much space in my small workshop :-)
/Niels
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oz9ny
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Mendel90
Just a small comment to your screw sizes!
Metric 7mm may be very hard to find. Use 6mm instead for the fasteners.
/niels
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oz9ny
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Tantillus
I have looked through the stl's for the metric Tantillus and found that in the Z-arm_2.stl needs a rotation along either x- or y-axis, else there is too much overhang :-)
Another issue is that slic3r does not like the supplied stl's. KiSSlicer can slice without problems + a stl exported from KiSSlicer can be sliced by slic3r without problems.
I have problems installing KiSSlicer on my producti
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oz9ny
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Tantillus
First thanks for a nice small desktop reprap.
Until now I have printed the four lower caseparts and have started on the next layer.
Every part takes a long time to print and here comes my concern! The very thin sidewall of the second elongated hole on base_2 is very difficult to print nicely. On base_2 it doesn't matter as far as I can see from the other parts of the base.
The top parts may h
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oz9ny
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Tantillus
