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QuoteDjDemonD
The first few commands are my start gcode, then after setting the units, G1 E-1 then the move to the first printing coordinate and then the unretract.
Does the S3D gcode also have an unretract, if so its not really a problem is it?
No it does not. So if you don't have a skirt or brim the print will be starved when it starts.
I'd use Cura instead but on my 3DLabPrint planes they
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WZ9V
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General
I'm a smoothie convert. Once you get used to specifying everything using the G-Code commands I'd say it is just as easy but yes there is some learning to switch to the Duet terminology and commands. I've found that once you are onboard with Duet most things are much easier to work out. David does a pretty good job of taking the concept and making it so you do not have to have a PhD to figure i
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WZ9V
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Delta Machines
Yes, I found his on thingiverse and ordered a 27mm kit to try that setup. I'll use the preassembled 20mn setup I bought previously on my Tevo Little Monster. Right now I'm trying to finish up the parts for a 3DPrintLab Qtrainer. Since I only have one working printer at the moment no messing with it until I get the plane parts finished. ;-)
Oh and I print those parts for the Rostock since tha
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WZ9V
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General
Make sure it is inserted all the way and use something like this to keep it from backing back out.
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WZ9V
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Printing
My short term idea is to relocate the board with an adapter I have yet to lay out. The longer term solution would be to make a version of your parts that would mount directly on the three posts. I think someone may have used the 27mm disc and made an adapter for the 713Maker effector already. I may need to order another set to try that. ;-)
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WZ9V
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General
1) Extra weight due to having to haul the X or Y stepper with the moving platform. With COREXY both X and Y stepper are fixed.
2) Equal tension as you move in any direction which should help keep both X and Y axis in alignment as they move.
That said there is nothing inherently wrong with a decently designed X/Y setup as long as you are not going for the latest in cool or trying to make a speed
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WZ9V
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Mechanics
Thanks, this question would have made more sense if I had put it in the other discussion as I originally intended. It will be a short distance and I should be able keep it away from the other cabling for the PT-100, parts fans, hotend fan and heater.
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WZ9V
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General
DjDemonD, I just got my pre-assembled Piezo20 in the mail (looks good) however it looks like the side mounted board control board will not fit within the triangular columns of the 713Maker setup for my Rostock V3. Can the piezo sensor wires be extended a bit without causing problems? I'm only thinking an inch or two so that I can move the board up near the Bowden fitting instead.
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WZ9V
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General
QuoteDjDemonD
Are we taking pcb effectors or strain gauges? Pcb effector and carriages will be £45 plus VAT plus shipping according to Dc42. Which makes it pretty good value, if you have a delta with magball arms, and presuming they work as well as the beta testers say they do. I'll buy one for sure. I'm not sure we will sell any Piezo20 modules to delta owners now, but kits and systems for any/
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General
Quoteleadinglights
Strain gauges have a lot of advantages but ease of use by the uninitiated is not one of them. For almost any beginning or intermediate RepRap builders your effector would be a PFM box* - buy, use and don't try to understand - same like smartphone.
Mike
*PFM box -Pure F#####g Magic box
I'm good with that as long as it works well. I intend to use one on my next Delta build
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WZ9V
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General
How about a 2-pin 0.1 header so you can just use a jumper.
QuoteMoriquendi
The problem with switches is that they're expensive and take up a lot of space on the board. I think that most people that are homebrewing their piezo system will have some soldering experience and the only people who would need to solder the jumper would be people who had gone from low sensitivity to high sensitivity (by
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WZ9V
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General
The BLTouch trigger time is too short to catch at the console. If you want to see it in action via a console, you need to set it in test mode first, then it will hold the trigger after it is activated until you reset it. Normally it just pulses the trigger which the firmware can catch but all but impossible to see with M119. For Smoothie that is M280 S5.5
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Printing
I wouldn't necessarily assume that just because a "commercial" company does it, that it is done better. They have to worry about price points and profit margins.
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WZ9V
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CoreXY Machines
Where did you get it from?
I could use some 350mm round PEI.
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WZ9V
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Printing
Is your extruder drive gear either chewing the filament or slipping?
I'd try increasing the tension the extruder idler applies to the filament and make sure you do not have a clogged or blocked nozzle.
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WZ9V
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Printing
All the PEI I have bought has had an amber color.
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WZ9V
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Printing
Or a blockage?
Was this printing well before or is this a new printer?
Do you have your z-steps set right so that you are moving the correct layer height?
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WZ9V
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Printing
I have one but I've had to do a few replacements
- Replaced clone Titan with real E3D Titan
- Replaced clone Volcano with real E3D Volcano
- Had PETG stick too well to the build surfaced tore it
Have not found a suitable replacement for the build surface since Tevo does not have any spares available at this time.
Overall I like it but lack of replacement build surface has been a pain as I've ha
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WZ9V
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Delta Machines
I'm doing this sequence to calibrate
M280 PS3 ; BLTouch drop pin
G32 ; calibrate
G31 ; delta grid
M374 ; save grid
M500 ; save
M280 PS7 ; BLTouch raise pin
G28 ; Home
Then this to set Z height
G0 Z5 ; move close to bed
; manually jog down in pronterface until grabbing a rolling paper
M306 Z0 ; set Z= 0
M500 ; save
After doing this I've set the Z height and M206 shows a Z value that is the diff
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Smoothie
If you don't want to use wheels you would be way better off using 60x40 extrusions instead. That would give you the nice big verticals and proper alignment of the linear rail. The top/bottom plate approach does make for an easy assembly and seems pretty stiff even at the Little Monster's 1.2M height.
If Openbuilds would start making 100x40 C-Beam that would be fun because you could then easily
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WZ9V
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Delta Machines
You can replace quite a few of the structural D-Bot parts with aluminum plates and corners. I do like the Smartrap drilled holes approach because it's simple and strong. If my D-Bot corners cause me issues I may do a hybrid of the two approaches but I'd probably do a self designed Delta before I attempt that.
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Smart_Rap
I got it mostly assembled but eventually gave up on it. I feel it needs screws instead of belts on Z and like you said better guide rods. I decided to go D-Bot instead.
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Smart_Rap
Could you share the Python script?
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Slic3r
Is it happening before the printer does any moves or after? If after, I suspect a bad wire or flaky connector that only shows up when flexed. If before then I'm at a loss.
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Duet
If you have a multimeter, unplug the thermistor from the duet and measure its resistance. At a temperature of 25C a typical one used in printers should read 100Kohms. If it does not, then you have a thermistor or wiring problem with the thermistor that need to be fixed (which is what the Duet is reporting).
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Duet
I can't wait until someone has this nailed down as a kit like the JohnSL board and FSR setup at Ultibots.
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General
I have a Wilson II and its a good solid printer with a real E3D hotend (Lite version).
Marty stands by his kits and has a complete set of build videos and config files. There is also a community website which is very supportive.
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WZ9V
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General
There were a lot of them in use at the Midwest RepRap Festival and the people I talked to spoke highly of them. I have one on a Tevo Little Monster I just got and it seems to do a fine job. The pin does need to have freedom of movement though, so keeping it clean and possibly lubed will help it (I think).
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Duet
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Pages: 12345