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I recalled that steppers lose torque when stepped rapidly. The feed rate was 3000 mm/min which seems high. I turned it down to 1000, then 500, and finally 200. At that point I was able to successfully jog both the X and Y axis, but the printer is noisy. I am not sure what value should be used here.
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
This is embarrassing, but I shelved working on this printer because of taxes, taking kids for college visits, a death in the family, and other life happens stuff. So it's been sitting ignored on my workbench for four years since I last worked on it.
Yesterday I dusted it off and evaluated what else needed to be done. It's still in good shape, but I corrected some minor wiring errors, and then po
by
Martin_H
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Tantillus
Getting back to this project after an absence due to taxes and work.
I ordered a rotary encoder from Sparkfun and found the shaft was about half a mm too wide. So I filed out the hole and installed it. I'll wire it up later. I also have a 16x2 LCD display to match.
As per the website I put a dab of cyanoacrylate glue on the Z axis limit switch to secure it to the holder. Well Murphy's law took
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
Here's a post by Sublime in this forum:
by
Martin_H
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Tantillus
Crud. I was looking to start working on mine again.
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
Those are neat mods. What's the advantage of the lead screw modification?
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
My initial experience attempting assembly of the e3d, but getting stymied by the thermistor insulation made me a bit hesitant to try again. So I've proceeded with everything but the hot end, but I am stuck as the firmware wants a working hot end to continue. I've been stalling and not making any progress.
So tonight I bit the bullet and completed the hot end assembly. The new blue fiber insulati
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
This is strange, but I thought I posted a reply to this thread about 302 not working within the errors in a code block. The colon P rendered as a smily, but now that reply is gone.
In any event I finished wiring all axes and added the Z limit switch. I turned on the printer, connected the GUI and was told extrusion was blocked. So I sent a M302 and then tried again, but it made no difference. I
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
I finished wiring up all the axes and Z limit switch. I figured I would try to move the motors again using the M302 to suppress the cold extrusion error. No luck as the override won't override.
Connecting...
start
Printer is now online.
echo: External Reset
Marlin: 1.0.0 RC2
echo: Last Updated: 2012-07-17 | Author: Sublime
echo: Free Memory: 13861 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
echo:Using Default se
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Martin_H
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Thanks for the tip. I'll try that.
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
I was able to burn the firmware, install the board in the printer, and download pronterface. I only have one axis connected and wanted to try jogging it. Unfortunately the firmware detects my not having the extruder and thermistor installed and shuts down to prevent a cold extrusion. I tried commenting out that #define but it didn't seem to make a difference.
So the new plan is to take the path
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
In Configuration.h I found commenting out these two lines:
// #define ULTIPANEL
// #define ULTRA_LCD
Allowed the code to compile, and that pins.h is where I need to add the definitions when I get there.
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
I've been having some trouble getting the firmware to compile. I was using the Arduino IDE 1.6.4 and when I compiled it would hang, so I upgraded to a recent build and it failed with errors about build.board preference missing. At that point I concluded that the Get7 support probably wasn't compatible with a modern Arduino IDE. But for thoroughness I downloaded a newer version of Marlin, but didn
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
The reason for the mixed use of 5/16th rods and 8mm are the skate bearings. They won't fit on an 8mm rod as their ID is within the tolerance difference between 8mm and 5/16th inch. Other than that you could probably use metric parts for bolts that are close. For example M2.5 or M3 for 4-40.
As far as firmware settings. I am about this tackle that issue, and my guess is it is a minimal calibratio
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
As luck would have it the microwave died on Monday. So I spent last night shopping for a new one, tonight removing the old one from over the stove, and tomorrow I will be installing the new one. So no progress on the Tantillus.
Removing the old one was harder than expected. The person who installed it made it too snug against the top cabinet. Even after the top bolts were removed, it was wedge t
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
It doesn't seem to be able to upload from the Arduino environment. I recall that Sanguinololu boards needed a jumper set to allow program upload on reset, but adding this didn't solve the problem.
Update 1: I'm using the Arduino IDE 1.6.4 which is slightly incompatible with the Gen7 2.1 zip. I had to reorganize the contents of the Gen7 folder in hardware to match the structure, and add a .upload
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
Thanks for the suggestion. I tried the -B switch and got a much better error. It turns out it didn't like the device signature for my ATmega1284p. It expected 0x1e9705 but found 0x1e9706. I tried the -F switch to override and it burned the fuses. Now it doesn't like the bootloader hex file, but this is probably syntax or some other smaller issue. Basic connectivity is working.
c:\Users\Martin&g
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
I used -b 10 and it still didn't work. So I kept adding -v until I got down to the send and receive level. Avrdude has found my programmer, but I don't know enough about what a normal trace would look like to spot the error. For example has it found the chip or not?
>%AVRROOT%\bin\avrdude.exe -C %AVRROOT%\etc\avrdude.conf -c avrispv2 -p atmega1284p -P COM9 -b 10 -U lfuse:w:0xF7:m -U hfuse:w:
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
Thanks for the suggestions. I will use the -v and -b 10 later today. If this does not help I can try breadboarding a minimal circuit. I was unaware that ATMega's had internal oscillators, so you learn something new every day.
AtmelStudio is a Windows IDE for Atmel chips that is integrates editing, compilation, and uploading onto the chip. It's based upon MS VisualStudio so I don't know if it has
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
OK. I have some 328p devices that I've used this programmer with, but I figured I would sanity check things. So I went into the Atmel studio Tools->Device Programming and then read the 328p's device signature. To me this confirms PC to programmer to microcontroller connectivity. I then repeated this by switching to the ATmega1284p in the drop down and plugging into the Sanguinololu header. An
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
Burning a bootloader has not worked using the Pololu AVR ISP (which is compatible with the Atmel programmer). I am following the steps in the Gen7 documentation, but it fails writing the fuses. It looks like it is unable to connect to the chip. I double checked all of voltage levels on the ATMega1284p, and that the reset pullup is in place. Everything looks good, but it fails. Below is the error
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
People liked pictures, so I figured I would show what I am up to with the control board. Rather than use male pin headers you can see I am using screw terminals for the steppers and extruder heater. I am also using an FTDI header rather than an FTDI/USB interface. The reason is I am thinking of interfacing with a Raspberry Pi Zero running OctoPrint in the future.
Here's the front:
Here's the b
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
I soldered all the parts i ordered form Digikey on the board, then washed it with isopropyl alcohol to clean off the flux residue. I looked at the bottom with a magnifying glass to look for cold joints and bridges, and it looks pretty good. Before I install the ATMega1248p I will check all the power and ground points to make sure the board is good. I'm using a salvaged 400 watt Dell desktop power
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
Today I found an hour to work on the electronics. When soldering PCBs I always check twice and solder once. So I had a picture of the assembled Sanguinololu and the instructions from the WIKI. Before installing a component i would read the instructions and check the picture. The passive components (e.g. resistors, headers, sockets, and 0.1 if caps) are all pretty goof proof, but components with a
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
Quoterobster34
You're killing me. Your step-by-step reporting has inspired (forced) me to assemble another Tantillus out of parts I have on hand. I'm sure it'll be months before it's running, though...
Great! I'm posting to keep myself motivated as this is an involved project, but it is good to hear I motivated someone else too.
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
The holidays are slowing me down as I've had to do shopping, attend two holiday parties, and my son's holiday concert. But I found some time to complete installing the Z axis, and now the electronics are required to test out the steppers. So that's the next thing to work on.
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
By working the axes back and forth with repeated tightening, I was able to even the tension and square the axis to within a half mm. I then moved the steppers into position and tightened up the gear set screws. The X axis is very fluid with no binding, but I have some mild sticking on the Y at a few points in the rotation. I imagine that this is caused by mild concentricity errors in the gears an
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
During the tightening operations I found I needed better access to the rear X bar at all positions rather than just one. So I removed the Z axis and that gave me unobstructed access. I've followed the instructions and the cables are looking snug, and the drive rods can move the head anywhere in a plane. But the X and Y axis are not quite square. The X is about 2 mm closer to the case on one side
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
Quoterobster34
I've never tried to string the printer inverted. I'm surprised you've got enough access through the case holes - and wouldn't it be impossible to string the back X-axis rod?
I used a pair of forceps to reach in from the side and wrap it around the back rod. Once I wrapped one end I used tape to secure the end and work on the other. It was a little tricky, but not that bad.
The re
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
I strung the X axis and I think I made every mistake possible and a few impossible ones as well! The obvious things to watch out for are making sure both cables try move the axis the same way, but I still messed it up. You also want to make sure that you have enough wraps around the drive bar so that the carriage can move the full amount, doh. You also want them to wrap around the idler bar so th
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Martin_H
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Tantillus
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