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maybe try setting endstop inverting to false?
by
bryanandaimee
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Printing
Sounds like the thermistors are having issues. Make sure the thermistors are connected and are not shorted or anything. The temperature of the hot end and heated bed should be about 20C when starting the machine.
by
bryanandaimee
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Printing
What is a P802m? What type of electronics are you using? What firmware are you running? Have you contacted the manufacturer? Looks like there is a similar issue to yours in the forum that was caused by a loose thermistor. See below link.
by
bryanandaimee
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Printing
Travel speed seems pretty high. Are you sure you are not getting skipped steps?
by
bryanandaimee
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Printing
Have you tried adjusting the contrast? (you probably burned it)
by
bryanandaimee
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Printing
Sounds a lot like the steps per mm are set incorrectly, but the fact that you can print other files without problem seems to indicate that the slicer settings are at fault. The only thing is that the slicer generally doesn't know anything about steps per mm of the printer. Could it be that the previous owner had the steps per mm wrong all along and was just compensating by scaling the models befo
by
bryanandaimee
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Printing
Looks like there might be some grit working its way down into the nozzle. Partial intermittent blockage might do that. Pull the PLA out while the hot end is at 80 or 90 C and check the nozzle to make sure it's completely clear of debris.
Also might be PLA jamming in the hot end. There have been issues with all metal hot ends like the E3D when PLA is used with large retraction settings. PLA turn
by
bryanandaimee
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Printing
That's not a design I recognize. Who did you buy it from?
by
bryanandaimee
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General
What do you mean by "not working completely right."?
I don't think the driver microstep setting should make any difference. There are no real compatibility issues as far as I know. Any driver designed for steppers should work with most any stepper. It is possible that you might have some resonance issues at 1/32 microstepping that you don't get at 1/16 or 1/8 but those are far less common than s
by
bryanandaimee
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General
I don't think you can rely on the average joe consumer to sift out the clones. They are not active reprap community members, nor are they going to do a bunch of research before buying a $10 to $50 item. Obviously you can't count on the cloners to follow licensing restrictions. Of course if you publish under a license that allows cloners to legally / ethically sell copies then you have no recourse
by
bryanandaimee
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General
Extruder calibration is pretty simple. You need to heat the hot end to the temperature you print at. Then extrude a known amount of filament and measure how much filament is pushed through the extruder. If they match you are good. If not, you need to change the steps per mm for your extruder till the amount commanded and amount extruded match.
First layer problems are generally due to your Z en
by
bryanandaimee
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General
For Marlin it looks like you want to set the
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
to something like
#define Z_MIN_POS 2
to whatever your residual gap is. This will tell the printer that when the homing is complete it is at position 2mm or whatever you end up using. Then to quickly check it out you can manually move to 0 and see if the height is correct. You want a piece of paper to slide under the nozzle wit
by
bryanandaimee
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Reprappers
Don't forget some fire safety gear. If you are going to leave the printer unattended for long periods of time there is a risk of failure leaving a heater stuck on till something goes up in flames. I think the risk has been mitigated somewhat by newer firmware that check for those types of faults, but firmware fixes can't stop all types of failure modes.
by
bryanandaimee
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General
You are on the right track. Pul is the step pulse also known as the clock pulse or CLK. and +5v needs 5V power from wherever you want to supply 5V power from. Be aware that the enable pin may be inverted from the pololu drivers. You'll want to get hold of a datasheet and check to see if the driver is enabled when EN is high or when EN is low.
by
bryanandaimee
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Reprappers
Why not just print the current design from Prusa? It isn't a Wade's extruder but It does use the E3D hotend I think. Is there a reason you need the Wades extruder vs. the I3 one?
by
bryanandaimee
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General
Sounds like your steps per mm or max speed settings are off. Try turning speed way down and see what happens. Repetier has a slider that lets you do this without changing firmware settings.
by
bryanandaimee
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General
May end up needing a more powerful stepper for Y since the bed will be bigger and likely heavier.
by
bryanandaimee
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General
Most often it is from the filament itself. At least that has been my experience. Every once in a while there is a piece of grit or something that makes its way into the filament at time of manufacture. Other than that of course it could have come from anywhere.
by
bryanandaimee
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General
Can you comment on relative friction of this vs say a standard Gregs? Does this design seem to be easier on the stepper or harder to push filament through? Also would the 90 degree bend preclude 3 mm filaments or PLA that might be too brittle?
Bryan
by
bryanandaimee
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General
Right. I think PLA is probably the only common filament that works really well for this. That is why I use PLA to pull gunk out the the nozzle even if there is ABS in there from the previous print. I imagine it would work fine for PETG as well. Warm the nozzle till you can pull the plastic you are using out of the hot end. It's OK if some gets left in there. That's the reason you use PLA. Other
by
bryanandaimee
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General
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
For clogged nozzles I use a length of PLA and do a warm pull regardless of what was in the machine at time of clog. For stubborn clogs I sometimes persuade it a bit with a needle from the front first before pulling everything out with the PLA at about 80C. Nozzle always ends up squeaky clean. Haven't used PETG yet but I imagine the same process would work.
As
by
bryanandaimee
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General
That is the default hot end for the current model that Josef Prusa is selling now, so parts for mounting it should be available for download on his website or github.
by
bryanandaimee
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General
The slicer should not need to connect to the board. If Repetier host is connecting then you should be good to go. You can't use Repetier and Arduino at the same time. So if you are going to reflash the board you need to close Repetier host. Sometimes the com port will not get released cleanly when a program shuts down. The best thing for that is to just restart the computer.
by
bryanandaimee
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General
Next thing I would check is the pin assignment in the firmware. Looks like the controller support line you uncommented is for a fairly generic LCD so it may or may not exactly match the pinout you have on yours. Check which pins are assigned to which functions and make sure they are assigned to the appropriate pin on the controller. Also it sounds like you have a pretty good handle on the basics
by
bryanandaimee
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General
You need to give more information if you want someone to be able to help. My initial questions would be: What electronics are you using? What are the symptoms? What firmware is on the electronics? Have you compiled LCD support into the firmware? Did you buy the controller separately or did it come with the kit? What troubleshooting steps have you taken so far and what are the results?
Hope that
by
bryanandaimee
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General
A good first guess is generally wiring. The cable on the motor or the connector might be assembled poorly with high resistance connections or intermittent open. One way to test is to check the resistance on each loop of the motor. If they are too high or too different then you likely have some bad wiring.
by
bryanandaimee
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General
Sounds like PET-G is the clear choice for modern filaments so far. I'm also starting to reconsider my past tolerance of ABS. The warping causes so many issues that I wonder why I haven't dropped it from my general purpose filament list a long time ago. I understand that once you get a filament and settings that work well with your machine ABS can be just fine to print with, but I'm almost convinc
by
bryanandaimee
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General
Just thought I'd get some opinions about the newer filaments. Is there a PLA/ABS killer out there for all purpose printing? I like ABS for heat resistance and toughness, dislike it for warp and poor inter-layer adhesion/bed adhesion. PLA is great for low warp, good bed and inter-layer adhesion, not so good for higher temp applications, toughness. Is there a filament that will do it all? I would l
by
bryanandaimee
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General
It seems like we are having a hard time communicating, but I'll try again. Z Wobble is when the spinning Z screws cause the moving build plate to wiggle back and forth. It has nothing to do with how high your Z axis can go. If your Z lift screws are bent they can sometimes force the build plate out of place by a small amount. It doesn't take much movement to mess up your layer alignment. Are your
by
bryanandaimee
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General
Also might be Z wobble. The design you have doesn't look like it would be too much of a problem, but if the bearings have some play and the Z screws are slightly bent it might still cause this issue.
by
bryanandaimee
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General