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Quote691175002
I also find it unlikely that toothed idlers degrade motion quality as the drive pulley must always be toothed. If toothed pulleys always cause a curtain effect then all timing belt systems must be doomed.
Running teeth on smooth idlers will of course introduce some degree of vibration. At some diameter this will become negligable, but I prefer to avoid the risk myself.
QuoteNop
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Dark Alchemist
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CoreXY Machines
Quote691175002
I also find it unlikely that toothed idlers degrade motion quality as the drive pulley must always be toothed. If toothed pulleys always cause a curtain effect then all timing belt systems must be doomed.
Running teeth on smooth idlers will of course introduce some degree of vibration. At some diameter this will become negligable, but I prefer to avoid the risk myself.
QuoteNop
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Dark Alchemist
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CoreXY Machines
QuoteMKSA
QuoteDark Alchemist
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Toothed belts are simply floppy gears. In order to drive them you need a toothed drive pulley. The guy in the video may have fixed one problem, but he probably created others. For one thing, he's now driving the belt using just a couple teeth because of the goofy arrangement of the bearings that are pushing the belt against the drive pulle
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Dark Alchemist
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CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Toothed belts are simply floppy gears. In order to drive them you need a toothed drive pulley. The guy in the video may have fixed one problem, but he probably created others. For one thing, he's now driving the belt using just a couple teeth because of the goofy arrangement of the bearings that are pushing the belt against the drive pulley.
Quality parts may indeed m
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Dark Alchemist
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CoreXY Machines
QuoteMKSA
QuoteDark Alchemist
All I know is that the driver can be toothed but the follower (idler) needs to be smooth on smooth and if you make the idler smooth on smooth the effect isn't halved it is completely gone.
On the video, he changed both sides. Looks like standard timing belt, not GT2
GT2 profile is supposed to be better according to their doc .
An other thing, bad pulleys tooth pr
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Dark Alchemist
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CoreXY Machines
QuoteMKSA
QuoteDark Alchemist
On a laser machine this was tested but remember a laser engraver is way finer in resolution than a 3d printer but with a toothed belt running on a smooth idler it results in a pattern that we call the curtain effect. Toothed belt into a toothed pulley was the same end result but when you flip the belt over where the smooth side of the belt comes in contact with the
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Dark Alchemist
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CoreXY Machines
On a laser machine this was tested but remember a laser engraver is way finer in resolution than a 3d printer but with a toothed belt running on a smooth idler it results in a pattern that we call the curtain effect. Toothed belt into a toothed pulley was the same end result but when you flip the belt over where the smooth side of the belt comes in contact with the smooth idler pulley the curtai
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Dark Alchemist
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CoreXY Machines
QuoteBobyni
well, Sbase is well known a copy of project Smoothie...
Mks-Robin.... may be is a derivative from the Smoothie but using Repetier FW as backbone, I believe.
with Compi's pin out, not sure is someone verified the pin out, to see if smoothie FW or Marlin could be used with this board....
cheersEwwwww, yuck to Repetier as I have never been a fan of that thing.
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Dark Alchemist
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Controllers
Before I went digging I asked them and found it is closed source and this is the response I received - "King Zhong: No, it uses closed-source firmware developed by our team. The way to flash the firmware is like MKS SBase, using sd card". Why the different version of SBASE and ROBIN?
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Dark Alchemist
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Controllers
QuoteMKSA
It's a two years old post !
Note the guy was right and is still right today !
Why acrylic ? Simply because the "designers" of these crap machines learned mechanic while visiting Shenzhen Ikea factory. The choice was MDF or acrylic. Acrylic is more flashy, so.
People buying these are impressed by the claimed performances, nice pictures, , cheap cost and are familiar with Ikea furniture o
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Dark Alchemist
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Mechanics
I think they went out of business as I am getting nothing but "Sorry, this shop is currently unavailable." when I try to go directly to them or through any shop links.
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Dark Alchemist
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Mechanics
QuoteDjDemonD
You can buy Chinese hotend heater blocks with cartridge style temperature probes, and you can buy themocouples/pt100 and the amplifier boards required from China also. I bought 1 e3d pt100 for £12 and 3 from china for £8 but I dont know if the cheap ones will work as well.
But it doesn't matter I have a multimeter with a thermocouple so I use it to check my thermistor table/values
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Dark Alchemist
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General
QuoteDjDemonD
I think so long as you try to determine as best you can what the temp you see indicated actually is really at the nozzle, I use a K type thermocouple and heatsink paste and place the sensor on the nozzle then measure a few select temperatures that are often used 200,220,250 etc..when setting up.
Or switch to a pt100 sensor which are far more accurate.
The other implication of te
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Dark Alchemist
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General
QuoteBokem44
30 yrs in the plastics industry and I can tell you that colorants do affect material properties. Also, different manufacturers use different additives which account for many of the variations seen between brands. On another note, thermistors (and heaters) should be seated, contacting the metal block of the hot end to get the best results. Measuring or heating an air pocket or gap is
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Dark Alchemist
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General
QuoteRoberts_Clif
Marlin 1.1.5
Connected to Cura 15.04.6 - Pronterface send the Following.
G28 ; did complete home X, Y, and Z
G28 X/Y ; did Home X and Home Y
G28 X/Y/Z ; did complete Home X, Y, and Z
What method are you using to connect to your 3D Printers.Pronter face and I can use its buttons or go to console and do it and the outcome is the same. G28 is not saving the position of Z so it ne
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Dark Alchemist
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Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRoberts_Clif
OH!
They have added a safety feature that raises the Nozzle during homing, this is to prevent the nozzle from being dragged across the bed during homing.
#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow
#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5 // Z Clearance between probe points
This only happens if it is below a set distance above the bed, or it does not
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Dark Alchemist
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Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRoberts_Clif
Yea the EEPRom setting only work when EEProm is enabled.
I have the EEProm enabled as I can save my bed Leveling data using M500 or on the LCD " store settings ". Only have to add " M420 S " to startup g-code - (to Enable the stored data)
Was told this only work in MESH UBL bed leveling though I have used it with Linear and Bi-Linear bed leveling.
M420: Enable/Disable Bed Leve
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Dark Alchemist
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Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRoberts_Clif
I have had problems after flashing if I did not reload firmware defaults. You can do this by simply. sending a M502 then sending M500.
Or you can send a M502 ( Factory Reset ), M501 ( Restore Settings ) and then M500 ( Save Settings ).
Not sure why but the old setting are not always cleared when flashing, not resetting can lead you to experience some unwanted side effects)
:NO
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Dark Alchemist
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Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRoberts_Clif
With Marlin baby steps, I can move the nozzle Z height using u-step by u-step up/down on the fly directly from a LCD controller turn and click knob.
So let's say I start a print with a brim and notice it is a little off I can quickly move one of the axis to perfection using LCD Babystepping.
This allows me to quickly adjusting for the Z-Axis until I get that perfect adhesion h
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Dark Alchemist
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Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRoberts_Clif
With Marlin baby steps, I can move the nozzle Z height using u-step by u-step up/down on the fly directly from a LCD controller turn and click knob.
So let's say I start a print with a brim and notice it is a little off I can quickly move one of the axis to perfection using LCD Babystepping.
This allows me to quickly adjusting for the Z-Axis until I get that perfect adhesion h
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Dark Alchemist
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Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRoberts_Clif
Only error stood out "#define MAX_BED_POWER 511" this did not cause any problems though.
Here is my working Marlin 1.1.6 with your configuration.h settings, I enabled EEProm, Bed BiLinear, Baby steps and Individual Axis Homing Menu.
Look thru the Configuration.h, Configuration_adv.h and pins_Ramps.h (I believe I have no changes to this version on pins) to see if I included and
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Dark Alchemist
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Firmware - Marlin
Some odd reason I did not get an email notification of your reply. I did do a line by line and some things I had no idea what even where so left them alone in the new 1.1.6.
Here is my configuration.h attached and hopefully you spot something because as hard as I looked I did not see it. Now I turned off bed leveling to see if that was the problem and in a temp version I turned off Z Probe (us
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Dark Alchemist
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Firmware - Marlin
1.1.6 - 6 years ago
I just upgraded my box from 1.1-RC3 and when I issue a G28 X, or G28 Y it moves Z up by 10 and sits there. What has changed, or what do I need to add to make it work properly, as I found this issue when I hit the home a single axis button within Pronterface?
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Dark Alchemist
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Firmware - Marlin
On my Ramps there is no way a heatsink would fit and it got so hot it melted into the plastic that holds the wires. That one was made by Sainsmart and it burned up and shorted so the next one I purchased was from eBay and I swapped over to IRF mosfets (all three though only one really needed it) and after a 24h print not even the heated bed's fet was warm to the touch but the old one with the sp
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Dark Alchemist
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Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRoberts_Clif
pins_Ramps.h
#if ENABLED( IS_RAMPS_EFB ) // Hotend, Fan, Bed
#define FAN_PIN RAMPS_D9_PIN
#define HEATER_BED_PIN RAMPS_D8_PIN
#elif ENABLED( IS_RAMPS_EEF ) // Hotend, Hotend, Fan
#define HEATER_1_PIN RAMPS_D9_PIN
#define FAN_PIN RAMPS_D8_PIN
#elif ENABLED( IS_RAMPS_EEB ) // Hotend, Hotend, Bed
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Dark Alchemist
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Firmware - Marlin
If I wanted to swap D9 with D8 what would I change in Marlin using a Ramps 1.4 board?
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Dark Alchemist
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Firmware - Marlin
Quoteimqqmi
You are using the 12v as the negative terminal and the pwm output as positive terminal. Make sure 0V of each power output is connected, and don't make assumptions by looking at markings and colors. Use a voltmeter to find each psu polarity, then use a continuity or ohm meter to make sure the 0V is connected properly. Also measure the ramps board, make sure which terminal is 0V. Use th
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Dark Alchemist
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RAMPS Electronics
I have an oddity I am not grasping what could be happening. I have a 24v setup and when I use the negative wire from D9 and the positive wire from my 24v to 12v converter (negative is shared between the 24v and 12v sides) I can do M106 S127 and it goes to 0v. Now 127 to 255 is from 0 to full 12v and 0 to 127 is -12 to 0v. How could that be happening? I checked the 24v coming from both termina
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Dark Alchemist
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RAMPS Electronics
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Let's see if I understand. You paid $40 for something that isn't cast tooling plate which is 1/3 to 1/2 of something (?) else, and it's warping because of the heat, therefore, my MIC6 tooling plate must be warping even though I've been using it for 3 years and prints are sticking like the first day it was on the machine. I'm having trouble following your logic.
Ebay ha
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Dark Alchemist
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Mechanics
Quotethe_digital_dentist
QuoteDark AlchemistTooling plate that is 6mm thick and has 500 watts shoved at it (300 sq mm) will distort over time and all I ever hear is to just use the largest layer height you can for the first layer which, to my ears, is just a bandage to an issue.
What units of time are you thinking in terms of? I've had a 450W heater on SoM's 12.5" x 12" x 1/4" tooling plate be
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Dark Alchemist
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Mechanics