Show all posts by user
Quotecwaa
Those are 4 start.
by
Dark Alchemist
-
Reprappers
Tooling plate that is 6mm thick and has 500 watts shoved at it (300 sq mm) will distort over time and all I ever hear is to just use the largest layer height you can for the first layer which, to my ears, is just a bandage to an issue. I really wish we didn't need a heated bed because then you could set it and forget about it if the bed is stationary. This is the one thing I love about a Delta
by
Dark Alchemist
-
Mechanics
Quotedc42
Digital dentist, you appear to me to be confusing using mesh bed compensation (often incorrectly called mesh bed leveling) to compensate for beds that are not flat and gantries that sag, with using multiple independently-driven leadscrews to get a flat bed level - as an alternative to using manual levelling screws and a belt drive to keep the leadscrews synchronised.
If I were building
by
Dark Alchemist
-
Mechanics
Quotethe_digital_dentist
I have noticed that the 3D printing community as a whole exhibits a propensity for overly complicated solutions to 3D printing problems. Why use solid construction and a flat bed plate when you can throw a bunch of motors/drivers, screws, sensors, power supply, and software at the problem? There's no cost benefit analysis done to figure out whether it might actually be
by
Dark Alchemist
-
Mechanics
Quotedc42
Three leadscrews driven independently plus a Z probe allows you to perform automatic bed levelling (and I really do mean bed levelling, not bed compensation). Three leadscrews driven neither by independently-driven motors nor by a single motor and belt drive gives twice as much to get out of sync as two leadscrews does.The thing is we are talking about the setup all of these systems use
by
Dark Alchemist
-
Mechanics
QuoteMKSA
There is a simpler, cheaper way, just ONE stepper, one belt, one pulley per leadscrew. No coupling that introduces wobbling. This two steppers config is a DESIGN FLAW. Yet, people keep using it, poorly justifying it, keep reinventing unsatisfactory if not blatanly wrong ways to circumvent it etc.... Worse, others than the Prusa are afflicted by this, some even worsening it by using THR
by
Dark Alchemist
-
Mechanics
From what I understand they work better but even if I used ABL I wonder how long they would last? Probably forever and I lol at 9 as that is like hotdogs and hot dog buns, hehehe.
by
Dark Alchemist
-
Reprappers
WOW, 5 dollars per nut? I went back and measured and it is 350mm I need not 400mm (I somehow thought 370mm which is 400mm for these things but it is 350mm).
by
Dark Alchemist
-
Reprappers
Yep, and when I used ABL they were horrible and the black soot then the horrible chalkboard sounds and when I used ABL with them I had to replace them within a few months.
by
Dark Alchemist
-
Reprappers
QuoteRoberts_Clif
This is something I bought for myself, comes in 150, 200, 250, 300 and 400mm lengths.
May be a replacement for what you are looking.
I was going to purchase that but Brass nuts are not all that good from what I have learned. Now I did find where I have to purchase the POM nuts and the rod separately from the same seller but they are 1mm pitch and 1 start. My I3 Rework monster
by
Dark Alchemist
-
Reprappers
I am trying to find 400mm (for a Prusa I3 Rework) leadscrews with Polyacetal nuts and is eight mm with a single start (1 full rotation will equal 2mm of movement) but I just can't find it. I live in the USA and if anyone has a reliable source please post.
Thank you.
by
Dark Alchemist
-
Reprappers
Quotedc42
QuoteDark Alchemist
One thing the Dentist mentioned above is dead straight they will lose sync but according to Prusa just slam Z all the way up until you hear the motor(s) doing the ratatatatat sound for a few seconds as it will not hurt the motors and both motors will be back in sync. This is his way he tells everyone to do it on his MK2 series of printers.
Alternatively, if the Z l
by
Dark Alchemist
-
Mechanics
One thing the Dentist mentioned above is dead straight they will lose sync but according to Prusa just slam Z all the way up until you hear the motor(s) doing the ratatatatat sound for a few seconds as it will not hurt the motors and both motors will be back in sync. This is his way he tells everyone to do it on his MK2 series of printers.
by
Dark Alchemist
-
Mechanics
QuoteDjDemonD
The thing is I wouldn't say 54% RH was a high number.
How about air conditioning?54% is low for this time of year but in this room the RH on my meter was 74% (I guess the national weather service's meter is at the airport while I am closer to the Mississippi river) as are our temps since we should be in the upper 90s and lower 100s (weather is funky this year) so I have no idea an
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
I just did a 2h print out of 3h and it started to lift on all corners. I went to 1.5 times the brim I normally use (from 8 to 12) and tried an Elmer's glue and water mixture that I spread across the glass (gave it a frosted look). I even over did the first layer by 125% width and 95% height and the first layer height was closer to the glass of almost being too close. Not a thing I have tried w
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
QuoteDjDemonD
Don't know about humidity but its hot in the UK right now, and both of my well calibrated machines have needed 110-115% extrusion multiplier to print ABS normally. Can't figure that out...If I could get it to stay stuck to the heated bed I would have no other issues. Hot + rain for 10-15 mins every single day = forget it.
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
QuotePDBeal
Have you tried printing with a big cardboard box over the printer itself? You said its not a heated chamber, but if it was enclosed the temperature of the bed and hotend would dry the air inside the chamber to a point that might rule out the humidity option. And I'm not suggesting you spend a ton of money trying it out, but would offer a large cardboard moving box would be large eno
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
QuoteVDX
... could be both or even a sort of relative dependency - warping and delamination is mostly connected to temperature, not humidity ... but can be influenced by storage conditions too, what's mostly defined by long term humidity conditions.
Other possible factors are the viscosity and extrusion speed (pressure, "caught" stress) and the cooldown time and curve-shape from printing to ambi
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
QuoteVDX
... do you print with heated chamber?
You have 2 or more different ambient conditions - humidity and temperature (or better temperature-gradient after extruding), air pressure, ...
Some years ago I had to solve a problem with different behaviour of a glue-dispenser between morning and noon - this was caused by varying temperature-gradients inside the glue reservoir while dispensing --
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
QuoteVDX
... this could be changed viscosity and "macro-molecular behaviour", caused by the higher ambient temperature and so slower cool-down too ...Well, I don't think that because ABS loves being in a heated chamber and actually is the best way to print ABS.
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
QuoteFloyd
Not sure. I live in Florida where humidity is only 80% or so.
I dont store my ABS in boxes or anything and they print well.I live right off of the Mississippi river and over the last 4 years I just can't print in the summer and the only thing I can think of is the humidity. Even a brand new roll I can't use but come the cooler weather where the humidity drops to below 50% and I just d
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
I have a Prusa I3 Rework V1 and I can take any model and print it fine in the late fall and winter in 0-10c temps using ABS. Now, that is amazing unto itself as it is cold and no warping but what is even odder is come mid spring and summer I cannot print anything even the same parts I printed a few months earlier. Now the temps in the room have went up to 24-32c (depending on the month) which A
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
Quotechriske
Erased all my (almost 60)files from the Thingiverse servers a few days ago. I've had it with cookie cutters, fidget spinners, phone stands, political rubbish, and most of all parts that can't be printed at all...
What I'm looking for is a site hosting more serious technical projects.
But I'm afraid I will not find such a site. Proliferation has already struck hard the 3D-community.Ju
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
QuoteCults
There is also Cults. https://cults3d.com
It’s one of the main 3D printing design platform. It’s available in English, Spanish & French. You can download qualitative 3D models that are optimized for 3D printers (personal or professional). Designers can share their designs for free or they can sell their them in order to fund a little bit their hobbies. Makers can also share their p
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
I had more time this weekend to work on it and it appears I will need a 1080mm (1077-1080mm) closed loop GT2 belt but where would I buy that from? At 1080mm it already is stretching the limit and to be honest a 1078 looks (in cad) to be perfect.
Any ideas on the belt for this?
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
That is pretty neat I must say.
I found some time this past weekend to do them but I forgot about the bearings (doh) so had only enough time to do one set (because each side is a mirror image you must make two). Basically each diagonal corner is the same. Will this design work? I am not sure but I am doing the belt design since I can't get any seller on ebay to respond to tell me if what they
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
I had some time yesterday and redesigned my X ends and next day I get free I will tackle the Y ends as well as the wheel pieces but I was looking and I could change out my 20t for 32t (not cheap) and it would give me 200 steps per mm so double my resolution for half the speed but two questions would be is that sort of 5 micron resolution needed and what negatives would there be in doing this?
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
I haven't had time to design a belt system yet but I sent a message to an ebay seller for 5mm/3mm 1m long carbon rods and I asked how straight and true are they as I need to use them as an axle type system so I need something of quality and, of course, no response. Normally when a seller (this was a seller in the USA) doesn't respond back it means they are selling junk or at least that has been
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
Quoteo_lampe
I'm afraid even with a carbon rod, you'll need one flex coupling.
But it seems we are back to the belt idea?I am floating between each and since I have to print up parts no matter what and I have PTSD with the amount of rods I had to go through plus I am just not convinced about the carbon rod because I know they flex when the belt is tensioned no matter what. I really like the idea
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General
Quotescottybfg
Nah, Im stubborn (if you cant tell already). I got most the distentions from a quick google, Just need one more you. What height is the centre line of that 5mm shaft currently?
With the rest of the numbers I found the bracket almost designs itself, If you give me this last dimension ill send you a solidworks file, (yeah, no more shitty paint haha)Measuring from the top of the 20x2
by
Dark Alchemist
-
General