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Jangan panggil suhu ah, bro gito.
stepper motor seperti nema14 atau nema17 bisa beli lewat ebay atau aliexpress.com. Di toko lokal saya pernah nemu di LTC, tapi mahal sekali motornya karena bukan 2phase seperti yang biasa dipake tapi 5phase, harganya 1.2 juta
Kebetulan saya juga saat ini lagi ngerakit extuder dan baru saja selesai. Terlampir foto-fotonya.
Itu adalah extruder yang sering dipaka
by
zungmann
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Halo Bro Gito,
Salam kenal.
Googling saja, banyak yang jual extruder --jika yg dimaksud satu set lengkap extruder-- Seperti:
Dan jika mau bikin 3d printer sekalian juga bikin saja extrudernya. Komponen extruder itu:
- plastik part: extruder block, idler, gears
- motor
- hotend/nozzle
- fastener: hobbed-bolt, bearing, mur dan baut
Komponen2 itu ada yg bisa dibikin atau dibeli.
by
zungmann
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Wah mantap banget tuh hasil printnya. Pake mesin apa?
Ya betul, jika dual supportnya bisa pake PVA ya.
by
zungmann
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Halo Bro Herman,
Salam kenal juga. Thanks buat infonya. Saya juga sejauh ini masih print dengan PLA, dengan alasan biodegredable dan tidak perlu suhu terlalu tinggi.
Untuk PLA, saya pake kaca di atas HBP dan suhu 55-60 derajat. Tidak asa isu warping sama sekali. Bagian dasar justru bagus mengkilat. Setelah agak dingin copot sendiri dengan mudah. Ke depan saya juga akan coba tanpa HBP dan pake b
by
zungmann
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Hi Sublime, I am about to order a Jhead for my Tantillus. What would be the preferable or recommended nozzle size, 0.35 or 5? I read somewhere --could not recall anymore-- that for lower layer printing 0.5mm nozzle is better, is it true? Am all ears.
Also, do you have any spare hobbed bolt? I don't think I can make it one now….
by
zungmann
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Tantillus
Iseng setelah print prusa part, saya print Vertex2 ini.
Semua material adalah PLA dengan 3 warna: kuning-transparan-kehijauan, hijau dan putih. Kepalanya belum sempat diprint, rencananya mau pake warna hitam.
Spesifikasi print:
- Speed perimeter: 32.5 mm/s
- Perimeter: 4, dengan lebar 0.49mm per perimeter, nozzle 0.35mm
- Infil: 33%
- Layer: 0.25mm/layer
- Suhu: 195C, kecuali untuk PLA hijau 205
by
zungmann
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Supaya forum ini lebih hidup, mari kita share apa saja yang sudah kita diprint (diluar printed part ya…). Sebutkan juga spesifikasi printingnya seperti material, speed, layer, dll. atau ceritakan hal-hal khusus spesial mengenai object printnya.
by
zungmann
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Woaaaa, can't believe it. This is excellent. I have 12 pieces of 40mm Alu T-Slot (20x20, from DBasix). Wanted to build Prims but now seriously considering the Ingentis
by
zungmann
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Tantillus
I am using an original J-Head from hotends.com. Its been fantastic printing for several months, 3 others reprap printed parts and some other prints. And just yesterday had this jamming when printing the last 2 parts of reprap mendel. I only printing PLA so far, the hotend has a small fan blowing the cold end part. I tried to clear the jam using the filament. Extruding it manually and using pronte
by
zungmann
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Reprappers
nossc Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Part yang ini dulu :
>
> 17-Morgan_arm_PSI_a.stl
> 18-Morgan_arm_PSI_b_plustoolhead.stl
> 19-Morgan_arm_Theta_a.stl
> 20-Morgan_arm_Theta_b.stl
Bos, check PM ya.
by
zungmann
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Bisa aja saya print-kan. Ada URL atau link ke github stl-nya ga? Atau yang ini sourcenya:
Selintas sepertinya banyak banget yg perlu diprint. Kalo memang itu saya liat-liat dulu...
by
zungmann
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
It sounds like my issue now with my green pla. Not always but many times it curl up and stick to the hotend and ruin everything; happens especially if printing small area. I did many things and what help me the most is heating up the bed and slowing the print to 8mm/s for first layer. I tend to belive this is something to do with the filamen or pigmen as nophead said. It did not happen to my earl
by
zungmann
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Mendel90
I think better start a new thread rather than hijacking others to post my build. I am building a metric varian, and now have printed all the plastic parts. Most of the plastic parts are perfect. Just found an issue: On the extruder body, at the bottom part I find the extruder gear hit a wall for a hole which should not be there I think, see attached. So then I cut it.
Another minor one is the hol
by
zungmann
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Tantillus
Oh ya, kit yang sebelumnya ditawarkan akhirnya saya rakit juga. Belum sepenuhnya jadi, tapi framenya sudah fix seperti terlampir di foto. Tinggal X Carriage, Extruder, Hotend dan Elektronik. Barengan dengan rakit Prusa, saya juga sedang bikin Tantillus, printer kecil dari Akrilik design Tantillus.org.
Kasih tau aja ya kalo ada yang minat ya, yang Prusa Mendel memang untuk dijual, tapi yang Tanti
by
zungmann
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
AntonJay Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> - Boss klo mau pesan parts dibawah ini boleh gak?
> & brp duit?
>
> 2. Threaded dan Smooth Rod lengkap
> 3. Fastener (Nut & Bolts) alias Vitamin dalam
> istilah Reprap, lengkap
> 4. Belt secukupnya (kurang lebih 2m & Pulley 2x
>
Boleh, 800ribu saja. Ini untuk prusa mendel ya.
> - K
by
zungmann
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Count me in. Is it still going on?
by
zungmann
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Tantillus
Thanks for the tip, I will try it later for the top parts. For now I file and gave the bottom parts two punches until fit perfectly.
Now printing other parts and hit this issue and with similar parts (having large horizontal hole). On very slope edge, the outermost perimeter just felt and did not stick to its adjacent perimeter. I am thinking if that could be because less overlap between adjacen
by
zungmann
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Tantillus
Hi, am building a Tantillus metric variant now. I got my acrylic laser cut and now printing the parts. Started with the corner_bottom. Its real tight and need to file a bit. My first two prints unusable because it just fit for 5mm acrylic. So then I recalibrate my Prusa until good enough.
Now, I am pushing this coner_bottom part, questions is how far shall I push this. I attach the picture for r
by
zungmann
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Tantillus
Temans,
Bagi siapa saja yang ingin merakit printer dan memerlukan kit dan ingin berhemat sedikit, saya menyediakan kit yang ekonomis .
Kit ini adalah untuk Prusa Mendel i2, yang terdiri dari:
1. Printed Part
2. Threaded dan Smooth Rod lengkap
3. Fastener (Nut & Bolts) alias Vitamin dalam istilah Reprap, lengkap
4. Belt secukupnya (kurang lebih 2m & Pulley 2x
6. Ball bearing 608 6x
Harga
by
zungmann
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Thanks. This does help.
Ya I initially thought RAMPS does not need fan and suspect it degrades overtime.
What if I cut the diode D1 on the RAMPS?
by
zungmann
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RAMPS Electronics
Hi All,
I am using RAMPS 1.4 and have been printing sometime (few months). I could not recall what was changes on my setting which now getting an issue: in the middle of printing and sometime just after few layers my printer axes including the extruder gear just make small back-and-forth movement and then stop after few seconds.
Initially I thought issue with stepper driver getting too hot so b
by
zungmann
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RAMPS Electronics
Error itu muncul saat Marlin baca temp-nya 0.
Coba cek hal dasar dulu jika belum: berapa resistansi thermistor bed nya. Jika 0 maka bisa jadi masalahnya di sini.
RAMPS pake pin analog 1 untuk therm heat bed. Jika bisa bikin program arduino sederhana untuk baca input dari therm nya saja dan outputkan ke serial comm arduino. (prograam sederhana/contoh bisa dilihat di site arduino.cc)
semoga memban
by
zungmann
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Update:
I now found the issue, at least I think the major cause this wavy print on my printer. It is not resonance but mostly motor skipping steps. The cause of this skip is electronic power supply. I am using Gen7 and the power for motors and heaters is shared using one string-two-connectors from the power supply. Now separating the power string. Printing at 60mm extruder block which previously
by
zungmann
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Printing
Thanks for the inputs and suggestions. So I will better find 6mm acrylic. There is dibond or plywood or even alu plate, but I love the acrylic for being transparent.
by
zungmann
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Tantillus
Sublime / All,
I would like to build a Tantillus, but the laser cut service only have 5mm acrylic, what needs to be change in the model / plastic part (Metric version) to adjust the thickness (I assume it has to be 6mm)? Would be a potential issue?
by
zungmann
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Tantillus
Bro,
Sourcenya yang ini ya: ?
Mungkin gw bisa bantu.
Pake bearing apa, 608?
Extruder dan motor yang akan dipake juga apa
by
zungmann
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Saya mendukung saja dari Bogor . Atau ada yg domisili di Jabodetabek?
@awasmaji, kenapa dengan calibrasi axis Z-nya? Sudah coba ini: ?
Setelah itu tentu saja yang terbaik adalah diukur dengan digital caliper supaya lebih presisi.
by
zungmann
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
This is exactly the issue that I am having right now and have no cure yet so far.
My issue is on Y-axis, rarely on X and only happen on X when printing at higher speed like 60mm/s.
Printing at 60mm/s the wave is very bad, happens just like yours in the picture. At 45mm/s happens at slower rate and less distance on both Y directions. At 30mm/s almost not noticeable but I think it still happen. I
by
zungmann
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Printing