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does it have mechanical endstops?
do you have pullup or pulldowns?
Possibility of noise if the stop point is random
But not homing can't be the same issue that is causing the missing steps.
If it missed steps on a home it should continue till it hit the endstop.
Or do you have some other form of endstop?
by
ruggb
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CoreXY Machines
When I cancel/kill a print it executed the kill command I have programmed into Repetier Host. Otherwise it just stops where it is.
I was questioning what you were saying but figured you knew where it was coming from. I can't speak to a Duet as I have a ramps
by
ruggb
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CoreXY Machines
Yeah, sounds like something is wrong with the pins file.
You can probably fix it if you wanted but Marlin should do it.
by
ruggb
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Printing
OK, so u are pushing 90, I just missed that gen. Mine had no vacuum tubes. However, there was a 4K memory module at the school that was full of 12AU7s and stood 6 ft tall by 6 ft wide by 3 ft deep.
by
ruggb
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Printing
Yeah, I have a questionable issue with my hotbed also. It is 120V and I use an SSR and sometimes it does not seem to be operating and the temp drops. Other times it does not seem to be operating and the temp is stable. Other times everything looks fine.
Don't u love electronics?
by
ruggb
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Printing
You mean Bowden extrusion of course.
Maybe I shouldn't try to upgrade to a Chimera head, huh?
If swapping the hotends on the board so that E1 = E0 and E0 = E1 and E0 (which was E1) works normally that would say it is a PID problem. You could change it to bang-bang, and see if it works for both that way.
I assume you ran M303 E1 S210 C8 and got results. Did they look the same as M303 E0 S210 C8
by
ruggb
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Firmware - Marlin
Yeah, I don't know how he could have changed it to 3 point if whatever the hotbed sits on is mounted to all 4 bearings.
But if that D side rail isn't level it is going to be hard to get a level bed on full travel.
by
ruggb
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Printing
move your endstop connector to YMAX port and change the config to use Ymax for the Y endstop.
I have not done this. Just reading from posts on Marlin Git Issues
check them out
by
ruggb
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Printing
How can you tell that ABC is perfectly level and D is not?
I would remove the hotbed, assuming you have a solid plate under that. Then configure bed level 3 point at/near the level screw positions. and see if you can get that level. Then do a test on the corners to see if that plate is drooping.
Add your hotbed and test the level again.
To adjust set either B or C and adjust only the other and A
by
ruggb
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Printing
Just a reminder:
NOTE; the stepper motors on a coreXY are NOT XY. Technically, they should be referred to as AB. It takes BOTH motors to move the head in a straight X or Y direction. One motor running will only move it on the diagonal.
That shift does appear to be a diagonal shift, so it is likely a drive issue on one motor. If I run mine too fast, even though I have 180° wrap on the belt/motor
by
ruggb
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CoreXY Machines
I keep seeing a lot of designs for CoreXY and have a real issue with all the hardware used. Four smooth rods, linear bearings, large plates to hold everything together for the Z axis. Mine is so simple compared to these and has been solid as a rock.
Here is a rendering of my printer that may give you some ideas. The belts/motors are offset to eliminate belt crossover. The belts mostly run inside
by
ruggb
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CoreXY Machines
I built my CoreXY from Carl Feniak's plans posted on Openbuilds. I made a few modifications, modeled it in Sketchup and built it. I reduced the width, reversed the front to back putting the motors in the back, and made the Z axis 3 screws instead of a cantilever platform. It may look a little skimpy and weak. The platform is confined at the corners with simple rollers. The gantry runs on rollers
by
ruggb
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CoreXY Machines
I also have a scratch built coreXY. The layer shift I was experiencing on mine was a result of missing steps. That was caused by two issues. One was flyback voltage on the steppers that was eliminated with diode blocks obtained from AliExpress. They are cheap and come in different configs. One is a simple plugin under your driver.
The other was a Marlin issue that produced minor shifts that made
by
ruggb
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CoreXY Machines
I have a very open frame coreXY printer and the only issue I have had with printing ABS is setting the hotend temp. What I found after many warped prints was that the temp 240-245 was too high. Lowering the temp 230-240 causes better adhesion to the PEI bed @ 110°C.
The higher temps I was using with PETG and PLA also affected those filaments the same way. I could not make PLA stick to the PEI at
by
ruggb
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Printing
What did you find for a solution?
by
ruggb
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Printing
So how did you solve your problem?
by
ruggb
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Printing
I must laugh at all who try to level a solid bed with 4 screws. Think about it. Your left front is high so you tighten that. What happen? It pulls the bed down from right rear to left front and the left rear/right front screws loosen up. 4 screws wants to bend the bed. If it could it would create a real problem, a warped bed, not an unlevel bed. When mine was 4 point it just skewed the frame. Whe
by
ruggb
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Printing
Wouldn't "5 square facets" indicate a vase structure which is manifold and printable?
by
ruggb
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Printing
If you can run X & Y the only diff for a HOME is the endstops are being used.
Verify they are plugged in correctly and set properly in f/w.
verify them with M119
Try placing head in center to give u time to hit stop or depower and try a home with endstop disconnected.
Buzzing on Z might be an indication that steps/mm are set wrong, current wrong or a power issue.
by
ruggb
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Printing
there are a few posts about this. Maybe something is wrong with the pins file. Try using Y-Max pin. Others have done that. with success.
by
ruggb
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Printing
the only issue with hairspray is I need to wash it off occasionally
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ruggb
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Printing
70% Iso has additives to keep the skin from drying, which is why they call it RUBBING alcohol. Over 90% has none of that. I don't currently have any so I can't tell u exactly what it is. But I use hair spray on a room temp piece of glass or nothing and 60° on PEI.
by
ruggb
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Printing
this is a good application for babystepping if u have a display.
Playing with offset drove me crazy. With babystepping you can adjust while it is printing so it is immediate gratification.
You also should be running slower on the first layer and with increased extrusion.
With offset, do G28, then G0 z10, then G0 Z0 and measure your clearance. It should pass the paper test.
by
ruggb
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Printing
did you find your problem?
those inputs on a Ramps board are pretty passive going straight to the Arduino with a 4.7k resistor to Vcc and a 10mf cap to ground..
The low resistance "T0, t1 and t2 all are around 5.8 Ohms when the power is off, and 4.7 when power is on" if it is across those input pins would give you a problem for sure. However, resistance measurement with the power on is not vali
by
ruggb
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Printing
I don't have an enclosure and get prints better than those, so I think something else is going on, possibly over extrusion.
You might want to recalibrate your Steps/mm on the extruder and turn your extrusion multiplier down, maybe 0.96
I run my ABS about 240-235 and 110 on the bed
0.2 mm with 0.4mm nozzle
50% first layer speed.
There also looks like there is some ringing and possibly over extrusi
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ruggb
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Printing
I've never done that, but how does Marlin know what pins file to use?
“Once your pins file is ready,.............."
How did yo make your pins file ready?
by
ruggb
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Firmware - Marlin
I had a lot of trouble with PEI. What I discovered is that I had the hotend temp too high and used too much fan speed.
I ended up turning the fan off except for small areas and lowering the hotend temp 5-10° and it started sticking very well.
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ruggb
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Printing
I am trying to get information from you about your hardware. You did not answer that.
Please note that I cannot put my eyes and hands on your system. Therefore, you must provide the info.
A longtime ago I posted something about multiple PIDs.
I do not have a dual extruder. So I cannot verify this. But apparently u have not verified it either.
IF there is a PID for each extruder, which logically
by
ruggb
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Firmware - Marlin
So, it is a Chimera head.
which nozzle is the problem? The one with the high slot or low slot?
If you run the bad one without heating the good one, is it still bad?
Did you enter BOTH PIDs into the EEPROM? There isn't much diff so you could enter the same for both I suppose.
You could also try swapping the wires on the board so E1 is now E0 etc.
Does that change anything?
by
ruggb
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Firmware - Marlin