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1st - switch to Marlin ver 2
2nd - variations in Z0 would be caused by noise not the size of the machine or the PCB.
Make sure your fans are off and test with only homing Z. Insure there is no filament residue on the nozzle.
3rd - why are your X and Y speed different if it is a Core XY, mine are not?
4th - turn the repeatability test on in Marlin and do a M48.
My coreXY yields 0.0036 std deviati
by
ruggb
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General
yes, that looks right, except I question connecting it to the MAX input. If this probe is also your Z endstop.
If it is the Z endstop connect it to the MIN input and adjust the config accordingly. If you can't disconnect the MIN endstop I think you can set Marlin to use the MAX input as the endstop and disable the MIN input.
I thought this was just for Z probe input, but I guess setting X&Y
by
ruggb
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General
It sounds like the sensor is functioning but it is connected to the wrong place.
if the probe is also the endstop, disconnect the original endstop and connect the probe to Zmin input.
set everything else to default. Input logic is negative so the endstop logic setting should be true to invert.
When you do a home, do it with just Z. On my printer I have added a delay (but I may have not re-added
by
ruggb
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General
This is the datasheet and circuit diagram for your op amp. Please notice the output circuitry.
Technically, it is not open collector, it is tri-state.
Depending on the rest of the circuit, the output can be Vcc, open, 0V.
That is when it is off - inactive - you should measure Vcc or nothing (no pullup connected) at the output.
When it is on - active - you should see 0V at the output. Obviously, w
by
ruggb
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General
I suspect you have an open collector output that turns on (shorts) when active. Any resistor 10K or higher to a + voltage (whatever is supplying the board) will allow you to see a voltage change. The problem is it isn't latching and is a short duration (useconds) so you probably won't notice it on a meter. You need a scope.
by
ruggb
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General
post a pic of your complete hotend carriage. The piezo requires very little movement to produce an output and maybe there is a solution.
by
ruggb
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General
This may help some people. I have a CoreXY printer I built myself.
I have been using a setup I created & printed for the printer. I used an idea from somewhere - can't tell you where now. I have had it running for about 1 year now.
I was a little skeptical about is because it seemed like it would introduce some degrees of freedom to the hotend that would not be desirable.
In the end, it was
by
ruggb
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General
slic3r ver 1.3.1 dev - dated 12-02-18
repetier 2.1.3
Marlin 2.0
Print file created in Sketchup 2017 make - STL file attached in ZIP
At layer 200 it is suppose to create a bridge layer, then 2 more, then infill.
The print preview in Repetier shows it properly. However, when it prints the bridge is only connecting to one side.
It then bridges again properly @ layer 261 and continues with 100% in
by
ruggb
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Slic3r
Just a note about isopropyl alcohol - there is 70% and 91%. Read the ingredients! 70% is often build as RUBBING alcohol. It contains Glycerin, which I would think is not desirable as it is a lubricant. 91% contains 9% purified water.
BTW, I still have not solved the PLA issue with my PEI - but I haven't actively tried lately.
by
ruggb
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Printing
where did u get ur PEI?
by
ruggb
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Slic3r
Most of them I have to modify anyway, but a few I tried printing straight up and they were bad.
I hate sloppy work.
BTW, I have my printer working so nice with the MIC6 bed and PEI. I also added a Piezo device on the extruder for a Z endstop and bed probe. It works like a dream. extremely consistent and no adjustment necessary - only problem, PLA does not stick very well or at all to the PEI. Oth
by
ruggb
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Slic3r
The biggest problem I find with SU is that of drawing a line from POINT A to POINT B. It is too easy for it to jump off the point unless u are close up and there is no other option. I don't think I created the problem I had to fix. It was done with whatever program the author created the model with - I don't think it was SU since other things were not like SU would do.
It is still a mystery why
by
ruggb
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Slic3r
Hey Doc, you sent me lots of good tips, but dissing Sketchup is not one of them.
Yeah, SU has some issues but it is easy. All the rest of them have issues also - just different. I have DS on my system, but I can't seem to even get started. It does things much different than SU.
Most times when I import STLs someone else made, there are issues with them so apparently it is a standards problem. I
by
ruggb
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Slic3r
well, I found it. I had to start taking it apart piece by piece and testing each change. It was a flat face that wasn't EXACTLY square to the axis. So, who's problem is it, besides mine???
by
ruggb
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Slic3r
I am using Sketchup 2017 Make, Repetier 2.1.3, and Slic3r 1.3.1 dev
I have a model that checks out as manifold in SU with Solid Inspector2 and SU Solid tests and with Netfabb online. I load it to Repetier and it says it is not mainfold. I slice it anyway and Slic3r can't close loops. Lots of them.
How do I resolve this?
by
ruggb
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Slic3r
Quoteo_lampe
I'd say your nozzle isn't exactly vertical. When you print, the filament squishes up on one side. Then it depends, whether the squished-up part get's ironed out by the nozzle during the next track or not.
Funny you should mention that, I was just thinking the same thing. ESP.........
Do you have any idea how to determine that?
by
ruggb
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CoreXY Machines
good answer, except that it does it on every layer and switches the motors that it does it on at exactly the same time when going in the opposite direction.
by
ruggb
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CoreXY Machines
really! with that sharp a line exactly where it started printing in the opposite direction.
It is a piece of glass from a printer/scanner.
it is on a MIC6 bed
I don't think so.
by
ruggb
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CoreXY Machines
Can someone explain this? Picture is of 1st layer (0.25) being printed. It started at the right front corner and went to the rear right corner. Then came back to finish the left side printing to the left. Printing to the right is rough, printing to the left is VERY smooth. 2nd layer (0.15) is printing smooth going over rough 1st layer to the right, and not so smooth printing to the left. It appea
by
ruggb
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CoreXY Machines
I am beginning to believe PEI is not PEI. my PEI is not clear and it warned NOT to use acetone to clean, though many places specify acetone. Maybe that is the clue.
I upgraded with a MIC6 plate and PEI sheet that came with the 3M already attached.
I do 3 point leveling and it is very flat.
bed level matrix
+1.000000 +0.000000 +0.000050
+0.000000 + 1.000000 + 0.000013
-0.000050 -0.000013 + 1.000
by
ruggb
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Printing
Quoteo_lampe
The infill starts, where the perimeter ends. That depends on the position of the part relative to the bed coords.
I was not referring to the infill. The last pic shows it printing FROM the corner it was printing TOWARD to finish the 1st layer.
It just stopped printing TOWARD the corner and restarted at the corner back to where it stopped.
BTW: looks much better now. If you need a
by
ruggb
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Slic3r
Quotethe_digital_dentist
I've never understood why slicer sets layer heights using a %, and reporting a % here is meaningless without knowing a % of what.
Well, if one changes the layer height from 0.2 to 0.3, using % for first layer or whatever would negate having to change many items instead of just 1. But then YMMV.
I always set specific mm values for both layer thicknesses and line widths.
by
ruggb
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Slic3r
Yes, the film was removed from the PEI.
My 1st layer height is 150%. Default 200% was way over but that affected the whole layer.
I am printing another - I'll get this thing right eventually.
Nothing changed. I heated the bed, then the hotend, then started the print same as before.
It is on the rear of the bed this time and about 1/2 way thru the 1st layer.
Mostly it is perfect, except on the e
by
ruggb
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Slic3r
thanks for the come back
When it prints the perimeters it is printing a bead - not even flattening it out.
I am surprised the PEI is holding on to it.
It is on a MIC6 plate so it should be flat. My bed leveling is 3 point and yields this matrix
1.000000, 0.000000, -0.000017
0.000000, 1.000000, 0.000043
0.000017, -0.000043, 1.000000
if it were too close to the bed, it would do it for the entire
by
ruggb
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Slic3r
I just finished a bed upgrade about a week ago - 6mm MIC6 plate, 600W SI heater, PEI film
When I print ABS (maybe PLA also but I have not yet), the 1st layer is very rough.
In some places it is smooth, as if the bed has crap on it, but it does not. I use 91% iso alcohol for cleaning
The 2nd + layers print fine and I don't understand this.
I took a few pics and posted it to the general forum, the
by
ruggb
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Slic3r
there is a Custom G-code section in Printer settings and one in Filament settings. What is the difference?
by
ruggb
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Slic3r
approx line 900 in configuration.h almost the latest 1.1.x bugfix
by
ruggb
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Firmware - Marlin
going by reports online, the piezo is about the most accurate repeatable sensor config.
I think this was the original one for 3d printers
but it is open source and there are lots of knockoffs at aliexpress.
mine is working great now. had to tune the printer for best results.
faster Z homing, delays from XY movements, etc. but it is mostly good now.
If you can configure one for your printer, you
by
ruggb
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Firmware - Marlin
it re-enables if the option to do it is enabled
/**
* Normally G28 leaves leveling disabled on completion. Enable
* this option to have G28 restore the prior leveling state.
*/
#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28
by
ruggb
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Firmware - Marlin
I just implemented a piezo sensor using my hotend. After tweaking Marlin, Rep[etier, and Slic3r and adding delays it seems to be working EXTREMELY well.
I had to redesign the hotend mount for it and print it since I could not figure out how to use the one available with the piezo.
And you can't get any closer to the action.
by
ruggb
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Firmware - Marlin