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Thanks for the pictures.
In the first picture above, you mention that some bearings do not fit. You'll probably find that this is the case with other parts too, they don't fit and will require filing until you get to the bare steel.
Note that epoxy powder coating is not really recommended for the P3Steel, for the simple reason that it is difficult to control the thickness of the paint, and as y
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AndrewBCN
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Prusa i3 and variants
I have been printing on PCB heatbed + borosilicate glass + hairspray for over a year now and I must say that PLA sticks like crazy on that combination. No need for sanding the glass, and I clean the glass every 20 prints or so with kitchen detergent and respray, and it's back to work.
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AndrewBCN
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General
Welcome to the club!
First, the design max power for the heater output for the RAMPS 1.4 is < 11 * 12 i.e. +/- 130W.
Second, any bad contact or bad solder joint with a resistance > 0.1 Ohm will dissipate > 10W and will probably result in some magic smoke.
Conclusion: unfortunately it is extremely easy to damage a RAMPS 1.4 board when dealing with a heatbed, and it is the part of the
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AndrewBCN
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RAMPS Electronics
I recently posted a video of a very simple and easy to print extruder that uses an MK8 gear gear, and the only thing I can say is that these direct drive extruders work well enough (and I suppose the one you linked to is the same in that respect), but they require a high-torque stepper and you have to run the stepper near its maximum rated current, meaning it will run hot.
Geared extruders are m
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AndrewBCN
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General
QuoteJChicago
... Thingiverse that has a simple 2-piece direct extruder you print that uses the same hardware from Greg's/Wade's and just adds a MK8 gear...Looks okay, anyone tried it?
-J
There are dozens of 2-piece direct drive extruders on Thingiverse, none of them uses the same hardware as a Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder, and most of them are for Bowden filament systems. Unless you are more
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AndrewBCN
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General
Actually the P3Steel is designed to use nyloc M3 nuts and in the pictures you posted it seems you are using normal M3 nuts. Big mistake... as you'll notice later on.
See the wiki for details.
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AndrewBCN
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Bernieke
Sorry for the late reply. I am still in the process of gathering enough orders for the first batch.
I am aware of some versions of the P3Steel that use laser-cut steel parts like the rest of the frame, for the X motor end, X idler end and X carriage.
You also have the Graber i3 which uses laser-cut wood parts for the same purpose.
But personally, I believe that it is better to print t
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AndrewBCN
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Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Quotereefab
276.82€/HT ça me parait pas super niveau rapport qualité/prix. La structure ne m'a pas l'air bien rigide et il manque (comme d'habitude) le ventilateur pour refroidir les pieces en PLA.
Contre:
* Pas rigide.
* Pas modifiable.
* Difficile ou impossible à réparer si quelque chose casse ou fond.
* Pas de lit chauffant.
* Petite alim.
* Electronique pas standard, avec tendance à chauffer
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Just a word of warning because it seems to me you are on your way to having a major accident. Lithium batteries require specific charging procedures and are much more fire-prone than typical automotive batteries.
In any case, I would never recommend connecting either of these battery types directly to an LED switch-mode PSU, you are most likely to burn the PSU, or short the battery, or damage
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AndrewBCN
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Reprappers
Click on your own name in any post, then "show all posts".
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AndrewBCN
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General
Very interesting idea!
Would it be possible to use a simple plastic film to prevent the silicone from adhering to the PLA mold? Also, won't the hot silicone melt the PLA mold?
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AndrewBCN
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General
Quotetoomy
A peu près le même style pour 230$:
@toomy
Ce n'est pas du tout le même style en fait. Le chassis de la he-3d est de conception obsolète avec un assemblage de pièces imprimées et tiges filetées, tandis que la MendelMax 3 est une imprimante de conception industrielle et je ne crois pas que son montage soit à la portée d'un contructeur individuel, en plus je crois que les plans sont pr
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Bonjour Julien,
Je comprends parfaitement ton envie de construire ta propre Prusa i2 avec un budget réduit. Je vais me permettre de t'orienter un petit peu pour t'aider dans ce sens:
1) La première chose, c'est que Josef Prusa, qui est le concepteur de la Prusa Mendel et de la Prusa Mendel i2, a aussi ensuite conçu la Prusa i3 (le "i" est un raccourci pour "iteration"), qui apporte plusieurs am
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Si je peux me permettre un petit conseil: si tu as des doutes sur l'autolevel, il faudrait d'abord niveler le lit chauffant manuellement, imprimer quelques pièces de calibration, et seulement ensuite activer l'autolevel dans le firmware.
Le seul outil dont tu as besoin pour faire le nivellement manuellement, c'est une feuille de papier, et ça prend au plus dix minutes. Si après avoir calibré ton
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Looks like your GT2 belts are not properly tensioned, or something else is loose in your Prusa i3 frame.
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AndrewBCN
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedc42
...I occasionally wanted to print an object more than 200mm tall.
...
We are not talking about vases here, are we?
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AndrewBCN
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General
QuoteJamesK
There are lots of commercial parts in our repraps - most of us don't make our own hotends and nozzles, and who makes their own steppers?
That is true, James (and obvious). But you don't get the manufacturers of hotends, nozzles and steppers posting too often here in this forum either, making any claims about their products.
QuoteJamesK
I don't see a problem with Mutley3D raising awa
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AndrewBCN
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General
QuoteMutley3D
AndrewBCN: Firstly, the original poster JChicago asked a question, i gave an honest answer, you made a comment about "no perfect extruder" so i proceeded to provide further information and knowledge for the benefit of awareness. I furthermore and equally apologised as I am very much aware of the sensitivity of such "advertising". Had someone else posted that comment, it would not b
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AndrewBCN
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General
QuoteMutley3D
QuoteAndrewBCN
Well, imho there is no perfect extruder that can be used with *any* kind of filament, otherwise we would know about it.
Ive not found anything in my testing, 1.75 or 3mm that the F******** cant handle, common and exotics and flexibles all run fine. (sorry i dont mean this to sound like blatant advertising), but just bringing awareness of this given your post above.
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AndrewBCN
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General
@ rohitnalluri
Here is a RepRap designed to be scalable from 300mm x 300mm x 300mm to 1m x 1m x 1m: the Alto (according to its designers, who have a comparatively vast experience in RepRap design).
Personally, I'll continue to stick to my opinion that anything larger than a Prusa i3 (in terms of print volume i.e. around 8l) is a waste of time, energy and money, and I have yet to be shown any
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AndrewBCN
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General
Well, imho there is no perfect extruder that can be used with *any* kind of filament, otherwise we would know about it.
Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder is pretty much good at *most* things, this is why it's a classic choice. Obviously there are many other extruder designs available nowadays, but you have to accept that all of them are a compromise in one way or another.
Since you are going to hav
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AndrewBCN
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General
"It has a Greg's Wade's extruder and genuine E3D V6 hotend and works great at everything I can through at it."
I am not sure exactly what you are trying to improve upon then. Could you please be more specific?
If you just want to use 1.75mm filament you can just change the E3D hotend for a 1.75mm version and print yourself a new Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder body and idler for 1.75mm filament.
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AndrewBCN
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General
Sorry, but this is just the N+1 post on the very same recurring subject, and to summarize what happened to the other almost identical first posts: people are never heard of thereafter, probably because after giving it a little bit of thought, they realize that building a large FDM printer is neither feasible nor interesting in practical terms.
Just look back at the past posts here in the General
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AndrewBCN
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General
I like it! Very original!
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AndrewBCN
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General
Quotecozmicray
....
100s of A4988 driver out there running without heat sinks without any problems
If it does get too hot --- get another one for $5
@cozmicray
You are not getting the real issue here: overheating during printing does not damage these driver chips, because they shutdown before they reach a critical temperature.
The point is that when they shutdown during a print and ruin it, y
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AndrewBCN
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Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Because it's extremely simple, does not require feeler gauges or any other special tools, and works well enough.
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AndrewBCN
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General
Since this thread was resurrected from more than two years ago...
As dc42 wrote, these tiny heatsinks are practically useless. The proper way to cool down the driver chips and the MOSFETs on the RAMPS (or whatever other printer controller electronics you may be using) is to add forced air flow i.e. a small 12V DC fan blowing cool air directly over the RAMPS.
See here:
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AndrewBCN
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Controllers
Dans ton montage je ne vois pas de ventilo refroidissant les ailettes alu de la tête d'impression, je ne vois que le petit ventilo de 30mm dont le flux n'est même pas dirigé directement vers la pièce, ce qui est probablement la raison pour laquelle tu es en train d'imprimer la buse de ventilateur que l'on voit dans tes photos ci-dessus.
Effectivement dans les conditions actuelles tu vas avoir du
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone