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Quotesarf2k4
I bought a 16awg wire with silicone sleeving rated around 100'c, 5 meters for a pair of them from aliexpress. I didn't cut them to my required minimum length yet so the wire resistance are rated at 0.4ohm at 5 meters.
This wire will be used to connect from the psu to the board. I still haven't measure the current stock wire that I have now on my gtech prusa printer
Here is a chart
by
AndrewBCN
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Safety & Best Practices
Yes they are hard enough.
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AndrewBCN
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General
Quote691175002
QuoteAndrewBCN
Are these parts actually CNC machined or is it just cast aluminum, sandblasted?
From the pictures I'm about 95% sure its sawed extrusion. Screwing up the extrusion die is an expensive mistake.
I guess you are right! And indeed, extrusion dies are not cheap, and a 1 degree error in the corner angle will require a new die for sure. Also, they might just as well thro
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AndrewBCN
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Reprappers
My suggestion is to get started on a Prusa i3 with a classic Greg's Wade's geared extruder, extruding 1.75mm PLA. Once you have that sorted out (and indeed there is a learning curve to printing good quality parts in PLA, as you'll see for yourself), you can work on other kinds of filaments and extruders, each one of which will have their issues and learning curves too.
There is no universal extr
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AndrewBCN
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General
Ouch! Just taking a look at the pictures, I feel your pain here!
Are these parts actually CNC machined or is it just cast aluminum, sandblasted?
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AndrewBCN
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Reprappers
Just a note on the terminology: usually we call these workshops, in French "atelier", in Spanish, "taller".
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AndrewBCN
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General
I am revisiting this thread to mention that I am reorganizing the page RepRap and Open Source in the wiki, since I believe that the subject matter and the discussion around it in this thread are related.
The question of RepRap and Open Source can be examined from various angles and I am trying to bring all the previously available points of view into this single page.
The RepRap and Open Source
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AndrewBCN
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General
Amha il vaudrait mieux séparer les divers problèmes et les résoudre un par un.
La première chose qui me semble la plus prioritaire, serait de résoudre les problèmes d'extrusion liés à ton passage d'un extrudeur Wade's à un système Bowden. Les systèmes Bowden ne sont jamais simples à régler et faire fonctionner correctement...
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Hi,
Just my $0.02, but dc42 is correct all the way: besides lowering the current, you should also add a fan to cool down those DRV8825's. As he explained, the small heatsinks over the chips are practically useless, it's really the airflow over the driver's PCB that is cooling the chips. Since you are driving them at or near their max. current you should really try to keep them as cool as possible
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AndrewBCN
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General
QuoteRRuser
Would you say iron is as good as aluminum?
You probably mean laser cut 3mm steel vs 6mm aluminum. I doubt anybody is going to build a 3D printer frame out of cast iron...
And yes, for this specific purpose, steel is a little bit better than aluminum (and much cheaper too).
by
AndrewBCN
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Prusa i3 and variants
Mon conseil, à prendre ou à laisser, est de commencer le montage de l'imprimante par l'assemblage des pièces en MDF. Et faire bien attention, car le bois aggloméré existe sous plusieurs formes, le MDF est la forme recommandée pour l'assemblage de la Prusa i3 box frame, ne pas utiliser un genre d'aggloméré de moindre qualité!
Une fois la structure MDF montée, il vaut mieux la peindre pour boucher
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Au-dessus du MK2B, normalement c'est du verre borosilicate, ou on peut aussi utiliser un mirroir, 20x20cm. Ou alors du verre normal, mais il résiste moins bien aux changements de température.
Pour les tiges lisses en inox de 8mm, si tu les trouves dans ton magasin local, demande leur de te les couper aux bonnes longueur (voir wiki). La qualité aussi varie beaucoup, celles de récup depuis des sca
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Bon, en ce qui concerne le lit chauffant le choix le plus souvent se porte sur un heatbed MK2B/PCB fibre de verre. Il est bien documenté dans le wiki ici:
Le plus souvent il est conseillé de le recouvrir d'une plaque de verre de 20x20cm en verre borosilicate. Et d'isoler la face inférieure avec une plaque de liège 3mm.
Pour les tiges lisses tu peux, soit acheter un jeu de tiges lisses acier i
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
@nazmo76
Difficile de te donner plus de conseils sans avoir plus de détails sur ce que tu veux faire exactement, de quelles pièces tu disposes déjà, si tu vas acheter un jeu de pièces sur un site quelconque ou te les faire imprimer par un ami, etc...
Par exemple, as-tu déjà commencé le montage de la structure en MDF ou pas? Peux-tu poster des photos du matériel dont tu disposes? Etc.
Pour les
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
I don't think there is a 3D printer that can do everything perfectly, otherwise we would have heard about it. So, every 3D printer is a compromise in one way or another. Same applies to extruders.
For example, most people who use a Bowden arrangement give up on flexible filaments, and on using 3mm filament/hotends. And most Kossel variants use a Bowden setup. I think you are swimming against the
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AndrewBCN
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Delta Machines
QuoteRRuser
Maybe there is a minimum thickness that solves most acrylic problems. Aren't printers using 8 mm now?
See Zavashier's post above. 8mm acrylic is still no good, and as you increase thickness it becomes much more difficult to laser cut. The long and short of the matter is that acrylic is just not a good material for 3D printer frames.
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AndrewBCN
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Prusa i3 and variants
@nazmo76
Bravo pour ton effort de recréation des STLs des pièces de la Prusa i3 à partir des sources en OpenSCAD. Et d'être reparti sur la construction d'une Prusa i3 boxframe.
Par contre, il y a plusieurs pièces de la Prusa i3 "vanilla" qui ont considérablement évolué au cours des deux dernières annèes, tu trouveras par exemple des versions des pièces de l'axe X plus récentes ici:
et des su
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
I am guessing you'll soon find out why most people recommend using 1.75mm filament with a Bowden arrangement.
As for the question that is the subject of this thread, the simple answer is: as short as possible!
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AndrewBCN
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Delta Machines
You can observe the same flex as Valerie observed in the acrylic Y carriage, if you make it from plywood or even thin aluminum. Also MDF frames have issues with temperature and humidity changes.
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AndrewBCN
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Prusa i3 and variants
As mentioned by madmike8 above, fire risks, incidents and prevention are better discussed in the Safety section. Which makes reading through the various threads in the Safety section a good idea, before you even get started on any RepRap build.
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AndrewBCN
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General
QuoteJamesK
Just to offer a different opinion, I'm delighted to see this project discussed here. Everything I do is heavily cost constrained and I think it's fascinating to see a project undertaken with the resources of a printer manufacturer behind it.
I know there are always emotional and political issues at stake in the open vs closed arena, but I don't see any actual harm in this thread bein
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AndrewBCN
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General
Very nice design! Since it is an open source design based on the Prusa i3, I would suggest you add it to the wiki, with links in the Prusa i3 variants and development pages.
Just one remark: I am not sure why you say it is derived from the i3 Rework, the way I see it, it is more of a derivative of the Graber i3, which is itself a derivative of the Prusa i3 Twelvepro, which is a direct derivative
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AndrewBCN
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi,
I don't want to sound like a sourpuss and dampen your obvious enthusiasm with this project, however I have a few objections about it that i would like to convey here.
The first thing is, this is clearly a closed source project by a company that uses open source hardware and firmware in its products, however has returned very little or even nothing to the open source RepRap community.
Second
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AndrewBCN
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General
Je suis à peu près du même avis que Didier ci-dessus: la qualité d'impression d'une Prusa i3 dépend surtout de comment elle a été montée et de divers réglages, mais il n'y a absolument aucune raison pour qu'une Smartrap imprime mieux qu'une Prusa i3, ce serait plutôt le contraire qui serait probable si l'on compare la conception des deux imprimantes.
Puisque tu as déjà une Prusa i3 qui fonctionn
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
This hack was intended exactly as what it is: a hack. As a hack, to experiment with a 32-bit ARM processor instead of an 8-bit AVR processor, it's a valid and fun project.
As a mass-produced product, it does not make much sense, imho. Again, yes, it would be possible to come up with an improved PCB layout for the RAMPS, with jumpers or dip switches, or traces to cut/pads to solder, allowing for
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AndrewBCN
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RAMPS Electronics
They do exactly the same thing, however you can change the extruder steps per unit "on-the-fly" (i.e. during a print) in Marlin, whereas changing the extrusion multiplier in slic3r requires you to think ahead.
The final effect is the same: you are changing the amount of filament that gets extruded. However, changing the extruder steps per unit is an adjustment that you can do during a print, whe
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AndrewBCN
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Reprappers
You may have some electrical noise causing this, or some other cause for this abnormal behavior. The normal variation is +/- 1C. Try to twist the hotend thermistor leads or shield them from the stepper wires and make sure you have the PID parameters in the firmware correctly configured for your 3D printer.
by
AndrewBCN
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General