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QuoteStrofe
Bonjour
4°) Soit la capacité de la hotend ne suffit pas et le filament n'est pas ramolli assez vite pour sortir de la tête d'extrusion..
Je penche pour la quatrième possibilité.
A+
C'est exact, j'ai même observé qu'une flux d'air froid qui atteint la buse malencontreusement peut causer une chute de température du filament et causer des blocages.
Cependant, ce que le graphe indiq
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Quotec128
you can modify ramps 1.4 schematic with hack version for due?
That is a good idea. In fact, I did get started on modifying a standard RAMPS 1.4 PCB layout, to add jumpers so that it could be used with either an Arduino Mega 2560 or an Arduino Due, by just switching some jumpers around. The problem is that there is very, very little space available on the RAMPS 1.4 PCB to add such jumpe
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AndrewBCN
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RAMPS Electronics
Hi,
An actual picture of your setup would be very helpful to diagnose your problem. But based on what you wrote above, I can give you the following tips:
1. The extruder stepper is not getting nearly enough current, you need to increase it to 1.2A at the very least. Direct drive extruders require a lot of torque.
2. The ideal length for a Bowden tube is zero i.e. you always want to make it as s
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AndrewBCN
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Reprappers
@ Yoann2
En résumé, il y a trois possibilités:
1) Soit ton moteur perd des pas: couple insuffisant (parce que le moteur est trop faible ou ne reçoit pas assez de courant). cf le post de kimented ci-dessus
2) Soit un des engrenages glisse sur son axe (assez simple à vérifier, puisqu'il suffit comme mentionné ci-dessus de marquer au feutre les engrenages et de vérifier visuellement s'ils glisse
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Très joli projet, mais tout ça, c'est parce que tu veux imprimer de l'ABS sans craindre les courants d'air, etc, si j'ai bien compris?
Le PLA ne convient pas pour ce que tu imprimes autrement?
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
@ TRoager
Reading the wiki pages on the Prusa i3 and its various variants will go a long way to answering most of your questions and doubts.
Just sayin'...
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AndrewBCN
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Prusa i3 and variants
@ toomy
J'ai mentionné cette solution économique dans un autre fil il y a quelques semaines:
La table IKEA coûte environ 7~8€. Elle fait 55cm de côté.
Est-ce que toutes les pièces imprimées de ton imprimante 3D sont en ABS? Si ce n'est pas le cas ou si tu n'es pas sûr, je te conseille de surveiller la température à l'intérieur du coffrage, un petit thermomètre LCD à 2€ devrait faire l'affai
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Quoteo_lampe
Carbon fibre is light enough to be used without all the fancy weightsaving holes and cutoffs. Just a plain 22x22cm plate, made from prepreg carbon.
Then put it in the oven and drill a few holes.
Carbon is just an example, but IMHO a lot of materials would be better for the y-bed, than 3mm steel.
Probably a steel frame wouldn´t need these full-height triangles, that are mounted pe
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AndrewBCN
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteespadon
Thank's AndrewBCN but i have to use a meter ribbon cable i don't have other choise . what's the solution
There is no solution. The sdcard simply cannot transmit signals reliably over a meter long cable.
You can't bend the laws of physics, however much you wish for it...
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AndrewBCN
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RAMPS Electronics
ribbon cable too long and picking up too much noise. use a shorter cable and shield it.
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AndrewBCN
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RAMPS Electronics
Quoterealthor
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What can be asked more of a a rep-rap bot ?
Thanks.
- A working (i.e. that prints its own parts, for example) prototype or two.
- Good documentation (sources on GitHub, page(s) in the wiki, detailed BOM, Thingiverse, etc)
- Reproducible design at reasonable cost.
All the widespread RepRap designs fulfill these requirements, AFAIK.
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AndrewBCN
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Delta Machines
Discussed here before many times.
Usually, this is caused by electrical noise in the flat cables between RAMPS and SD card reader/LCD.
Shielding solves this. Sometimes just wrapping the flat cables with aluminum foil is enough, proper shielded cable is the best solution.
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AndrewBCN
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RAMPS Electronics
Quoteo_lampe
I highly doubt, that the y-table has to be made from 3mm steel?! 3mm carbon fibre would work better, right?
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If you have ever tried to cut or CNC a carbon fiber sheet (2 or 3mm thick) then you would immediately understand why nobody sells or has ever used such a part in any 3D printer. It's just not practical or economical to manufacture. Also there is no real requirement to make
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AndrewBCN
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteOne-T
j'ai une vieille alim pourrie et ca marche tres bien , elle proviens d'un pc pentium 2 donc bon .
C'est ce qu'on appelle l'exception qui confirme la règle!
QuoteOne-T
attention certaines alim ont besoin d'une charge sur le 5V sinon elle se met en securité
essaie de brancher un truc qui consomme un peu sur le 5v et normalement alors elle devrais rester allumer .
si ce n'est pas le
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Quotethetazzbot
How do you judge the quality of your print and or printer?
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Basically, it's how close your actually printed object is to what you ideally wanted it to be in the first place. Dimensions, surface finish, mechanical characteristics, even color may or may not play a role in the "quality" of a print.
It's a somewhat subjective concept, but after printing a few kg of filament most p
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AndrewBCN
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General
5 meters? Just remember that 0.4 Ohm x 10A is a 4V drop and 40W dissipated as heat... Not really a good idea.
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AndrewBCN
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Safety & Best Practices
@ Sim0-n
J'ai l'impression que ton alim est une vieille alim que tu as récupéré sur un PC? En tous les cas, tu vas avoir des tas de problèmes pour la faire fonctionner correctement avec ton imprimante 3D, elle n'est tout simplement pas faite pour.
J'ai dècrit dans le wiki comment adapter une alim de PC pour un usage pour imprimante 3D, avec photos et tout le toin-toin, il y a aussi quelques re
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AndrewBCN
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Hughe,
These calibration parts are designed to be challenging, so do not be discouraged, you are learning a lot and improving the quality of your prints!
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AndrewBCN
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Reprappers
QuoteViper97
QuoteAndrewBCN
PM me if you are interested in one of these 2.5 DXL frames. Otherwise there are a number of places in Spain that sell 2.0 frames with varying prices and finish levels.
Crack dealer!
Hehe!
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AndrewBCN
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi there,
For the RAMPS mount on the P3Steel frame you can find my proposed solution on Thingiverse:
The Arduino + RAMPS assembly just slides in from the top and stays in place. You can then add a fan using any of the fan brackets which are also available on Thingiverse.
The P3Steel accepts most of the printed parts from most Prusa i3 variants because they all have a similar "gene base". How
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AndrewBCN
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteViper97
Thanks Andrew... appreciate the sharing of knowledge.
You are welcome!
QuoteMatthijsW
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My Heated bed has a resistance of 8 Ohm.
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24V on 8 Ohms gives you 3A, and 24V x 3A = 72W which is not good enough to heat up the MK2 or MK3 heatbeds.
Conclusion: the resistance of your heatbed is out of spec by at least 30%.
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AndrewBCN
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Reprappers
Hello,
Just my $0.02 thoughts on the subject.
First thing, imho you should conceptually separate the two functions: linear guidance and linear motion.
1) Belts and screws are for linear motion. The play you should be concerned with here is along the axis of motion and is generally called backlash. Whether you are using belts or screws, there are ways to eliminate or minimize backslash issues.
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AndrewBCN
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General
QuoteMatthijsW
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I am running on marlin.
The setting i use is ( I lowered the maxtemp from the default settings):
BED_MASTEMP 120
I have changed it now to 130
I will test this right now.
Unfortunately in your case this is unlikely to change anything, and will not solve the problem.
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AndrewBCN
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Reprappers
Hi,
Just my $0.02 here.
A simple method to check wiring, controller board, MOSFET, heatbed, etc.
1. Measure the DC voltage across the heatbed terminals when you are heating it, and measure the DC voltage across the power supply terminals too.
2. You should have approx. 24V DC at the PSU terminals, and a little bit less than that, say ~23.5V DC, across the heatbed terminals.
3. With the printer
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AndrewBCN
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Reprappers
Quotekd6hq
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Is it possible to turn the Arduino 2560 board off (besides disconnecting the USB cable) so that is does not power up every time I turn on the computer?
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There isn't any easy, simple way to do that. However, note that the Arduino Mega 2560 power consumption is usually around 250mW (1/4W) when powered from USB. The TV in your living room standby power consumption is probably ar
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AndrewBCN
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RAMPS Electronics
@ the_digital_dentist
I guess you have your opinion on these matters and it is consistent with the machines you have built. However, as they say around here in Spain, "the proof is in the paella", and the Prusa i3 stands as a major success story among RepRap builders and also, for better or worse, made in China copycats.
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AndrewBCN
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General